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Hello!

I am new but old, just got myself a little run about lupo!

I haven't been on this forum since 2008 when I bought my first one! 

Like many I am here to seek advice on some faults first before I can make it my own. 

It's a 2004 1.7SDI. Perfect for daily workhorse life. I got it of a great family who had lost time and money trying to diagnose the faults. I wil upload a picture. 

Apparently it could need a new ECU but could be the relay 109 that I have been researching. The faults were cleared and came back each time. Screenshot_20191009_221333_com.android.gallery3d.thumb.jpg.9201b29da47260a0ccccbe3e53d5bbde.jpg

Any help appreciated!

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Trace wires and go from there.

I bet if you fix one circuit then you fix all.

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100% not the ECU. Sounds like the B+ line supplying most of the engine loom. Which like you say comes via a relay, controlled by ignition relay and ig switch... you need to get in behind the fuse panel. Try swapping the relays first, or at least getting a multimeter out. Could be ig sw, which is also a common failure.

pics please! :)

 

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On 10/10/2019 at 10:34 PM, mk2 said:

100% not the ECU. Sounds like the B+ line supplying most of the engine loom. Which like you say comes via a relay, controlled by ignition relay and ig switch... you need to get in behind the fuse panel. Try swapping the relays first, or at least getting a multimeter out. Could be ig sw, which is also a common failure.

pics please! :)

 

Ok so I got myself a multi meter, I have ordered a new relay just to be sure. 

I will also replace the fuse as above. 

Are there any guides to checking the connections with the multi meter. 

I have done many mechanical things on a car but never electricals. 

Thanks for the help. 

 

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I generally use a multimeter on a car to check power volts (typically around 12.5v not running and 14.1 running) and continuity (beep function). If a circuit is meant to be powered, it's usually at 12 or 5v. Sensors generate an output between 1 to 4.5v. Anything else is suspect and can be caused by a dodgy contact or switch.

Checking a wire is actually getting power through is best done by connecting a meter probe one end and at the other. So when there's power at point A, and nothing at B, you can check the wire using the beeper. No beep means a break. Also a good way to check for shorts between a wire that shouldn't be earthed and you might get an earth because of a break in insulation or something rubbing through.

I guess the trick is to find where the power is coming from and work your way from the source. Battery to fuse panel, usually ok. So working from the fuse terminal to the next point along the chain, then a switch, then a relay, another switch and so on. So somewhere there might be a loose joint or a corroded contact preventing power getting through.

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Does it actually run?

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4 hours ago, mk2 said:

I generally use a multimeter on a car to check power volts (typically around 12.5v not running and 14.1 running) and continuity (beep function). If a circuit is meant to be powered, it's usually at 12 or 5v. Sensors generate an output between 1 to 4.5v. Anything else is suspect and can be caused by a dodgy contact or switch.

Checking a wire is actually getting power through is best done by connecting a meter probe one end and at the other. So when there's power at point A, and nothing at B, you can check the wire using the beeper. No beep means a break. Also a good way to check for shorts between a wire that shouldn't be earthed and you might get an earth because of a break in insulation or something rubbing through.

I guess the trick is to find where the power is coming from and work your way from the source. Battery to fuse panel, usually ok. So working from the fuse terminal to the next point along the chain, then a switch, then a relay, another switch and so on. So somewhere there might be a loose joint or a corroded contact preventing power getting through.

Ok so are you saying take out a relay, and stick the probes into the holes? 

Literally have no clue haha! 

 

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3 hours ago, Skezza said:

Does it actually run?

Oh yea. Apart from being very loud and 50% power, it's all great! The engine light has been on since I bought it and that was because of the faults. 

Literally just plugged in my OBD reader this morning and found some faults but I knew that, and cleared them. The engine light has gone out for now, but two faults remain. The engine is the same, loud and slow. 

That's the only issue. 

 

 

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Pull the egr vac hoses out... (and block the ends so they don't suck air in). That'll give you a smidge more power.

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3 minutes ago, mk2 said:

Pull the egr vac hoses out... (and block the ends so they don't suck air in). That'll give you a smidge more power.

Not sure I want to pull things apart to make it faster. I just want it to run 100% correct. I have a 3.0turbo for speed ^_^

Just took it out and engine light is back on..so gonna get the codes again now. 

I'll replace the fuse as said above before. 

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So just got back from a drive. 

Reset the codes but no change to the driveability. Same symptoms just no engine light. But I know it will be back. 

Scanned the car again and got the three codes as shown on the image. 

That's with the engine light out. 

I changed the fuse as mentioned but had no effect. 

 

Screenshot_20191012_181143_com.ovz.carscanner.jpg

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Find a common point.

Rubbing under the battery tray?

Earth points rusting out down there?

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15 minutes ago, Rich said:

Find a common point.

Rubbing under the battery tray?

Earth points rusting out down there?

I'll have a nosey tomorrow in the engine bay. 

The fuse box looked absolutely fine. All fuses looked normal and all pushed in lol. 

I'll have an inspect of the relay area tomorrow too. 

I'll keep this updated. Won't stop until it's found 

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Yeah, the error message you get from the intake air temp says it. "High voltage". Means either the loom power rail or earth rail are loose or not connecting correctly. My hunch is still a relay, but could be ignition switch. Check the power voltage on the EGR solenoid connection. That may help, as it's easy to get to. 

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1 hour ago, mk2 said:

Yeah, the error message you get from the intake air temp says it. "High voltage". Means either the loom power rail or earth rail are loose or not connecting correctly. My hunch is still a relay, but could be ignition switch. Check the power voltage on the EGR solenoid connection. That may help, as it's easy to get to. 

I have the relay on order so awaiting delivery, for that.

Im very new to these cars and electrics. 

I'll have to Google that. 

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I have read about the firing order could be wrong? Can the wires to the injectors be around the wrong way. 

I had a similar situation when sticking HT leads in the wrong order??? 

 

Sound plausible? 

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Nah, you can't mess with injection sequence... all unmessable. Mechanical.

The poor running is the injection timing pickup (inj no. 3) signal not getting through to the ECU. You'll see that that injector looks different to the others. It's a rather nifty way for the system to check and adjust the injection timing while it's running. If it doesn't get the signal, it locks the timing at somewhere around TDC. Same goes for the air temp sensor- it locks the air temp at probably 10c or something.

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Below you have the wiring diagram and the configuration of the ECU socket

AKU-Diagram.pdf

EDC15P-SOCKET.jpg.85b046b52707735e8a40d8544d8fa960.jpg

For P0489 error

2007035027_akun18.JPG.29be5e4198504e34a76139c8c6ec06a6.JPG

If the specification is not obtain

 

Check wiring between test box and connector for open circuit using current flow diagram.
Contact 1+ socket 1 + 2
Contact 2+ socket 61
Wire resistance: max. 1.5 ω

Additionally check wires for short to one another, to vehicle earth and to battery positive. Specification: ∞ω

 

For P0216 error

Remove injection pump socket (arrow)

aku1.JPG.98b0f96b053d378533a5dcfc54d43bed.JPG

Check:

1827334583_aku1(2).JPG.2fa49a4a1c481d2c80ca9bae3c02aef8.JPG

 

aku3.JPG.53cf082cd6074658e3ad377390d629a0.JPG

For 0113 error

IAT-1.JPG.20c866056a5d1bf731888f2c7d9fe681.JPG

 

iat-2.JPG.ef1dd0700c7ddfce51d12f8ad28c6d1a.JPG

 

 

 

Edited by lupo 1.7sdi

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This is really great info! 👍🏻

Where did you find it?

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So the first test was stick it in the egr valve. Now this registerd 15.9 ohms. 

 

The second test of that apparently was 5V???? 

I'm not entirely happy I did it right,

I stuck the red lead from my machine onto the contact 1, and the black lead from my machine at the battery bottom there's a bolt. 

That's where 5v got from with the ignition on??? 

 

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So I think I did it right this time. 

11.9v used the red on part 1 and the black on the negative for the battery? 

 

Used the setting below on my multi meter to also test the battery and it was 12.5v 

Screenshot_20191013_153852_com.android.gallery3d.jpg

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EGR valve sounds ok. You should see at least 11v on the plug to the EGR valve when it's operating.

if you pop off the air pipe (fitted with the air temp sensor) between the air filter box and the EGR air choke valve, then start up, you should see the valve closed once it's idling (Make sure nothing gets sucked into it!). If you blip the throttle you should see it open then close again. If it stays open all the time, the EGR circuit to the valve isn't providing power to the choke solenoid. The choke valve operates using vacuum force/power (same as the EGR valve).

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11 minutes ago, mk2 said:

EGR valve sounds ok. You should see at least 11v on the plug to the EGR valve when it's operating.

if you pop off the air pipe (fitted with the air temp sensor) between the air filter box and the EGR air choke valve, then start up, you should see the valve closed once it's idling (Make sure nothing gets sucked into it!). If you blip the throttle you should see it open then close again. If it stays open all the time, the EGR circuit to the valve isn't providing power to the choke solenoid. The choke valve operates using vacuum force/power (same as the EGR valve).

I got a picture of my bay below.

Not sure where the parts are your referring to. I know this is frustrating for you as it is for me! Haha! 

Are you able to give me a hand over what's app or similar? 

Gladly pay in beer tokens 😊

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