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LR5V

GTI Upgrades

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On 11/26/2018 at 6:56 PM, LR5V said:

 

Already invested in all the required Victor Reinz gaskets, Gates Cam belt kit, new oil pump - going to ask for Goetze rings unless there is something better out there?

If you can find, i recommend Mahle rings. They are very good. I've rebuilded 2 of these engines with Mahle rings and all of them run strong compression after many miles. My track Polo with 1.6 16v has Mahle rings for the last 10k kms (@6k miles), all of them (without the 300 miles break in perios) done on the track, revved hard, and the compression is as good as it was after break in and the oil consumption is as low as 200 ml in 3-3.5k miles of track use. So, i will highly recommend these rings, and also the VR headgasket.

Edited by Aditza579

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Do you hone the bores with a double angle cut (30 & 60 degrees)? 

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14 hours ago, Aditza579 said:

If you can find, i recommend Mahle rings. They are very good. I've rebuilded 2 of these engines with Mahle rings and all of them run strong compression after many miles. My track Polo with 1.6 16v has Mahle rings for the last 10k kms (@6k miles), all of them (without the 300 miles break in perios) done on the track, revved hard, and the compression is as good as it was after break in and the oil consumption is as low as 200 ml in 3-3.5k miles of track use. So, i will highly recommend these rings, and also the VR headgasket.

Thanks for the suggestion will look into them - will do this after stripping the spare engine down

 

12 hours ago, mk2 said:

Do you hone the bores with a double angle cut (30 & 60 degrees)? 

I was planning on getting a Flex-hone

41GWjFewAkL.jpg

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Clarke three legged glaze breaker....

 

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read horror storeys about them, very easy to mess up  - the bog brush is self-centring, great scoring - a lot more user friendly

 

Edited by LR5V

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First check the state of the factory hone. It doesnt worth honing it again if the factory finish is still intact. Look on the cylinder 90 degrees of the wrist pin axis, both sides. If you can't clearly see all the Xes, then the honing process is necessary. If you have to do it, use the ball-hone method (this works only for fine honing, if there are clear signs of wear, you may have to use the three leg tool or even worse). But this is a case of deciding only after you tear into the engine. Good luck!

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Yeah, and if you get the angle wrong it actually makes everything worse... you need a zig zag vertical movement, not a wave action. No horizontal scoring. So you can't start or stop the drill while the brush is in the bore. Ever.

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Oil pump showed up yesterday. Been reading through Casper Gti's excellent build thread, he had a few hick-ups on his build. Got some great tips buried in that thread - getting some Graphogen for bearings and Torco engine assembly lube.

15 hours ago, Aditza579 said:

First check the state of the factory hone. It doesnt worth honing it again if the factory finish is still intact. Look on the cylinder 90 degrees of the wrist pin axis, both sides. If you can't clearly see all the Xes, then the honing process is necessary. If you have to do it, use the ball-hone method (this works only for fine honing, if there are clear signs of wear, you may have to use the three leg tool or even worse). But this is a case of deciding only after you tear into the engine. Good luck!

Thanks for the advice  - the spare engine apparently had 90k miles on it, I am going to take the block to be checked over at a shop to get their opinion, thought new rings needed a deglazed bore to seal in properly

14 hours ago, mk2 said:

Yeah, and if you get the angle wrong it actually makes everything worse... you need a zig zag vertical movement, not a wave action. No horizontal scoring. So you can't start or stop the drill while the brush is in the bore. Ever.

Yes - start and finish outside the bore with lots and lots of lube oil

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Not much to report except getting all these:

1UD3KR.jpg

Orange things are plastic razor blades - should be non damaging scrapers

Piston ring compressors - should have looked into these more, so no surprise I got ripped off with these on amazon

Valve tool - this is a replacement for my old one I had destroyed taking bent valves out of my ABF

Fasteners from TPS - main, con rods, , cam box, cam pulley bolts & gugeon pin clips. Annoyingly I got served by someone new and didnt get discount!

Because my garage is so small, before I can begin tearing into the spare engine I need to move the Lupo out onto the drive. will probably wait till the festive break to do this. all that is left is to get is the bearing shells and rings + a few more sundries.

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Copy of the VAG tool T10075 arrived today from Serbia of all places:

00eJNO.jpg

Tried buying these at TPS, apparently they don't sell the tools - it has to be dealer - they could check price, the T10075 is on back order and this one was cheaper. 

Still on the lookout for a T10073.

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Been a while - have to admit I have not done much to the Lupo, but quite a bit to share.

The plan was to move the Lupo back onto the drive making space in the garage to strip and rebuild the engine, due tot he slope I did not want to manually move it and the apparent sump of coolant meant running the engine would create more damage.  I decided not to drain all the oil but to only extract the coolant form the sump with the Lupo in my tiny garage.

I am a big fan of the Pela Oil Extractor - its a vacuum oil pump that means you don't need to remove the drain plug, everything gets sucked up the dip stick tube, very clean and easy.

Had a look around for an alternative hose to go down the tube, the penny finally dropped - brake pipe is the perfect size:

ovPwiQ.jpg

I used a length of silicone to extend the tube down to the green tub on the floor, didnt use the pela, instead I used a hand vacuum pump.

I expected the coolant to be at the bottom of the sump with the oil on top - fully expected G13 to gush out... but the first liquid was oil! I rechecked the pipe, it was straight, not bent up, 5mm off the bottom of the sump. I left the hose to gravity drip for a few hours. I returned to half a litre of oil, still no coolant.

Somewhat perplexed I looked inot the drian tub, it still had the remants from when I first found water in the sump, sitting int he bottom is this:

LJXslU.jpg

to me it looks like ground aluminium:

iQDQVK.jpg

The only conclusion is the head gasket is sound, my drive slope created the mother of all air locks, it emptied the expansion tank twice when I took it for its MOT - so thought I had something catastrophically wrong.

But the issue is there is damage in the engine, brings me back to what I said before:

On 12/4/2018 at 10:23 PM, LR5V said:

Dropping the oil it looked a bit cloudy, when I got the sump off I could see why, some how water was in my sump, a weird grey sludge under the oil. I had noticed the exhaust was steamy after the rebuild, just thought it was condensation, this something it had never done before - and there was no gunk in the bottom of the sump when I took it off before, so this water got into the engine whilst it was up on axle stands with the front panel off - Bonnet not secure on my driveway 7 meters from the road. Not sure if its paranoia, but after the clutch and now this, I am starting to suspect interference from a third party, will have to go through my CCTV footage.

I am not going into details but the CCTV footage was interesting.

 

So, going forward, the plan is flush the engine to hopefully get as much of the metallic fillings out of the engine, fresh oil and to push on with the MOT.

To get there I need to cable tie the fuel filter, tighten the front ARB, replace front top mount/s and hope a good run will sort the fuelling. Got all the parts, plus a few other bits -just need motivation to do it, the cold doesnt help. 

Also, decided the power steering delete was herioic, it felt great at speed - not as twitchy - but way too heavy to react to a slide or other road users... so (and Rich was right!) the pump and hose it will be getting re-instated. may revisit this in future with electric power steering - OEM system is tempting, but takes up a lot of room.

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One day I will collect my medal.

Maybe on the day you collect your TT?

Shall I get an oil return bunged in the sump when I take it off?

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20 hours ago, Rich said:

One day I will collect my medal.

Maybe on the day you collect your TT?

Shall I get an oil return bunged in the sump when I take it off?

No thanks - I will still build up the spare engine, after all I have all the parts, less bearings

8 hours ago, Sausage said:

Are you saying someone messed with it on the driveway?

Yes 

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The AUM engine is long gone now, I am talking about the TT itself.

Would go nicely with a red lupo.

 

IMG_16012019_170351_(640_x_640_pixel).jpg

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Afraid you are peddling to the wrong person - I've had my fill of the 8L chassis - The current plan later in the year is Mk5 Gti.

Did you get what you asked for the AUM engine?  - I will probably break the Mk4 - all the go fast parts its got are worth more than complete/running + the bodywork is classically pretty!

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I did indeed.

Plus more for conversion parts to go with, I'm also getting free MK4 rear coilovers.

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First decent weather weekend in ages, its a shame I had to give the daily some love.

Dropped into TPS, they now sell oil by the cube:

esspH7.jpg

20 litres before VAT is good chunk cheaper at £2 instead of £2.45 a litre in 5 litre bottles - makes more sense for me as both Golf & Lupo use the same oil - amusingly its like a giant wine box that wont fit in the fridge

Was digging into the Quatum oils, turns out TPS moved supplier from Castrol to Fuchs a year ago, still VW approved.

The Mk4 needed a new engine mount, front coilovers dropping from syncro height, an mini service with engine flush, new oil / filter, new handbrake cables and finally fit the springs and adjusters in the rear to complete the Bilsein B14 set up.

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Well my Mk4 has been a complete PITA and has taken up all the time I wanted to spend on getting the Lupo MOT'd, its now been parked up for 2 weeks and the wife's car is playing up too.

But I finally pulled my finger out and removed the non power steering alternator bracket.  For some reason my Photo service isn't working other wise there would be an old and new pic here....

I got the latest alternator with power steering bracket assembled - the top alternator bolt has to be fitted off the car. had to jack up the Lupo on the drivers side and slide the assembly into the the engine bay via wheel arch, its in with the 2 top bolts, need to do the bottom 2 bolts and add the power steering pump.

1070 belt purchased from euro's and i have lots of proper green mineral PS fluid, but I have another complication that I cant locate all the PS stuff, my garage is so cramped its probably on the shelf behind the Lupo - the PS pump I am going to fit is a refurbished one I got but didn't use for the Mk4, currently assuming the connections will work + I have no recollection what way the hoses go - from reservoir to pump and rack to reservoir I know, the high pressure to rack will be a mystery till I re-find the missing parts

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Mk4s choose to do this to us.

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15 hours ago, LR5V said:

1070 belt purchased from euro's and i have lots of proper green mineral PS fluid, but I have another complication that I cant locate all the PS stuff, my garage is so cramped its probably on the shelf behind the Lupo - the PS pump I am going to fit is a refurbished one I got but didn't use for the Mk4, currently assuming the connections will work + I have no recollection what way the hoses go - from reservoir to pump and rack to reservoir I know, the high pressure to rack will be a mystery till I re-find the missing parts

Hope the picture below helps!

AVY STEERING.jpg

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20 and 22a are the most annoying bolts in the world when you're under a car and the lines won't let you get that magic angle that seems to let everything fall into place.

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I love being back in my MK4 since the Polo TDI spat it's turbo yesterday.

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Mk4 is a comfy car. 

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I might sell the 1.4 and get a 1.6, see how I get on with that.

I do believe I am done with the three pot diesel life, with the turbo blowing I have now experienced pretty much every single fault that can go wrong with them.

Plus they vibrate too much for a comfortable enjoyable life.

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