RAB

The Lupo FSI was the petrol equivalent of the 3L. Only made in LHD, it was never sold in the UK. It was a 5L/100km with automated gearbox (different ratios to those in the 3L) and was only sold in Germany and Austria. It was the first VW FSI and its' unsuspecting owners were probably taking part in the' development of FSI technology. Looks similar to a 3L but for some reason, didn't have a magnesium steering wheel! A collectors piece, even more so than a 3L! RAB

Is there enough hydraulic oil in the reservoir? To check, unplug the hydraulic unit electrically and release the accumulator half a turn. Remove the green cap from the reservoir and fill with VW steering hydraulic oil so that the level is within the rectangle. If you have had to top it up, find the leak and repair. Replace the cap and tighten the accumulator. Reconnect electrically. If that doesn't cure the problem, replace the accumulator. Also give the transmission a basic setting if you don't know when this was last done. RAB

It works in exactly the same way as a freewheel on a bicycle, i.e. no sudden load on the belt or anything else. When engine speed reduces, the alternator slows down more slowly until it matches the engine speed. The pulley also absorbs crankshaft pulsations. RAB

2.1v suggests that the clutch is not closing completely, so you have a problem with either the sleeve or release bearing or both. The cure is the same for both. While you are at it, it would also be sensible to replace the clutch plate. RAB

What I can be sure of is that you don't have any kids! https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2020/nov/30/landmark-inquest-to-rule-if-air-pollution-killed-london-pupil Removing EGR increases your NOx levels by at least 40x. RAB

Already answered: https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/1-2tdi-3l-transmission-problems.45281/ A "How To" on what? There are many causes of gearbox problems, a major one being lack of proactive maintenance! For this one, it's probably a sensor pot failure which is not very common. RAB

Are you kidding? It will increase your NOx emissions many, many times! That's the reason for EGR! https://www.newscientist.com/article/dn28245-nitrogen-oxide-is-not-so-harmless-and-could-damage-human-health/?promCode=13454,13455&packageCodes=TAP&offerCode=Q,6M&dsa=true&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyqes4fW44wIVTLTtCh1NeQ7-EAMYASAAEgK7z_D_BwE https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2017/may/15/diesel-emissions-test-scandal-causes-38000-early-deaths-year-study You'll also void your insurance because the car will no longer comply with its' exhaust emissions. RAB

Transmission fault codes here: https://workshop-manuals.com/audi/a2/power_transmission/5-speed_manual_gearbox_085_ds_self-diagnosis/self_diagnosis_v.a.g_inspection_service/interrogating_fault_memory/fault_tables/ Could be just a loose connection, especially if you don't have a 01605. RAB

The other issue is that the ANY/AYZ has a specific clutch plate. Was the correct clutch plate installed? The clutch plates splines should also be greased. RAB

You can monitor the position of the clutch with the voltage reading from the clutch actuator potentiometer, block 14, position 4. In D, the voltage should be about 1.90v and 4v when you press the brake pedal (clutch open). When you release the brake, the 1.9v value should be reached after about 1 sec., driven only by the clutch springing. If it takes 90 secs then it's gearbox out, I'm afraid. RAB

No, there's no access to the clutch via the starter. It's just a normal clutch that's actuated by other means. If it's the guide sleeve, then it's gearbox out. It's always a good idea to change the guide sleeve when you remove the gearbox. It's a cheap part but only if you change it! Another thing you should do is make sure that the rubber plug at the top of the bell housing is in place. RAB

Here's who I would recommend: https://womautomotive.co.uk/ Near Stoke, they maintain a few A2 1.2Tdi's. They are one of only two garages in the UK where I would take a 1.2Tdi for transmission repairs. The other is Caffyns in Eastbourne; only one of their technicians is allowed to work on our cars. He trained himself on them! RAB

01604 is a code for G239, one of the potentiometers on the gear actuator. I would recommend that you take your car here if you want it sorted: https://womautomotive.co.uk/ RAB

When you disconnect the hydraulic unit, the voltage should drop immediately, not take 90 secs. I can't read your file but you certainly have a problem with the clutch. Did your garage install a new guide sleeve? For the gear actuator adaption, is the gear lever in the tiptronic position? The car won't start until you have succeeded with a basic setting. I also suspect that you have a failed brake switch. RAB

Is your brake switch working? The engine won't start in S if it's not, but will start in N. RAB

Is the gearbox actuator connected correctly to the wiring loom? The actuator has four connectors and two different connector types, so there are four possible combinations. The connectors have their own loom but your garage may not have known that. Otherwise the car needs a transmission basic setting, the procedure is here: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/5-Speed_Electronic_Manual_Transmission_(085) Follow the procedure to the letter! RAB

Euro 2 VW Lupo? Really? I don't think so. All Lupos were, at minimum, Euro 3. Although the Euro 4 standard didn't exist at the time, the 1999 Lupo 3L even met the requirements of the 2005 Euro 4! The only Lupos that weren't Euro 4 were the non-3L diesels. http://carurac.com/echappement/volkswagen/lupo.html RAB

That's about right but it's a bit more sophisticated than that because the point of change with regard to RPM is dependent on the position of the throttle, i.e. with more throttle it changes at a higher RPM, so yes and yes. RAB

If that's the extent of your knowledge, then your previous statement is no surprise. The 3L has an automated MANUAL gearbox. If it had a normal auto, it wouldn't achieve 3L/100km. You do need to use the handbrake for hill starts - no difference from a manual car. The clutch is either open or closed, it doesn't do slip! That's why changes are a little jerky at slow speed but at higher speed, changes are hardly noticeable. The 3L only shares about 20% (FSi and GTi excepted) of it's parts with other Lupos. Even the body shell is different (thinner but stronger steel), which it shares with the GTi and the FSi. The ECU doesn't control everything; there's also a GCU! I've never had any difficulty getting parts from VW, it just takes a bit longer because most parts are not stocked in the UK. When you express an opinion, it's a good idea to know what you're talking about! This is what you should have read BEFORE commenting: http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_218.pdf There will be an exam afterwards! RAB

"I don't understand the premium on these cars, ok they are very fuel efficient, but so is the SDI or TDI. " Not in the same class. Chalk and cheese. RAB

With A/C off, does the fan work in all positions? If not, the fan is the problem, not the A/C. RAB

The problem is that nobody I've found will cut someone else's key. Yes, with a new key, all keys have to be paired with VCDS and the SKU. However, the OP's original key should still work as a manual key, even with a flat (key) battery. I very much doubt that an ECU will allow any useful start with an un-synched key. RAB

I've found someone on Ebay who can supply cut blades from a photograph. Note that PIN he requests is the key PIN, not the immobiliser PIN/SKU. The two are different. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-KEY-BLADE-FREE-CUT-TO-CODE-OR-PICTURE-FREE-POSTAGE/114395057226?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l264 RAB

Another complication is that there are two different wavelength variants. If you buy the wrong type blank, it won't communicate whatever you do! RAB

If your existing key is a remote, first check that it has a good battery. Then turn on ignition without starting and press lock and unlock a few times. That should re-synch your key without using VCDS. RAB