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RAB

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RAB last won the day on August 29 2018

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    East Sussex

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  • Currently Driving
    E-Up!, Lupo 3L, Audi A2 1.2Tdi

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  1. Correct! Far easier to repair as is. You have to be pro-active as far as maintenance goes for 3L's. If you are, they are very reliable. All three of our cars have their original gear actuators and hydraulic stations; the original clutch actuators were consumable but you can now convert them to a Hall sensor. RAB
  2. No, the inner edges wear because the front wheels are not parallel when the car is in motion. The inner edge rubs against itself, gets warmer and the rubber gets softer, resulting in wear. You can check this yourself by touching the inner edges after driving. The only way I have found for correcting this is with the Trakrite. Take the car to a garage with fancy laser tracking and they will get it wrong because the VW data is over-pessimistic regarding the slop in their steering mechanisms. My front tyres have been on the car for four years - no sign of wear on the inner edge. RAB
  3. You're not serious, are you? The camber is essentially non-adjustable, the tolerances are to cover manufacturing variance. Do you think that a minute change of camber would make any difference to tyre wear? Only if you're running solid rubber tyres! I had a problem with both our 3Ls wearing tyres on the inner edge. Cured by reducing toe-out and checking for the front wheels running parallel with Gunson's Trakrite. Never had a problem since. If you set the tracking statically, you are relying on VW data which seems to be over-pessimistic. RAB
  4. For what reason? They are linked for a reason. So there would be problems converting to manual. With a 3L transmission, you have to be pro-active, otherwise expensive problems appear. Being pro-active, most problems are simply avoided. RAB
  5. The clutch position is given by the potentiometer. If the signal is noisy then starting in STOP/PARK may be inhibited. However, starting in NEUTRAL should work before the potentiometer degrades too much. A German member of the A2-freunde forum converts original actuators to one with a Hall sensor - cheaper than buying new and should last indefinitely. I have had two converted. A basic setting/recalibration should be done every 30.000km. There's very little clutch wear as slipping the clutch is not possible. A 3L clutch may last 300,000km. You can bump start if you can get it in gear but if the actuator is failing, there's little point. 1.2Tdi was only used in the Lupo 3L and A2 1.2Tdi. There was no Arosa although a prototype may have been built. RAB
  6. You may need a new accumulator - they contain nitrogen which leaks away with time. Another likely cause is a worn potentiometer on the clutch actuator - if the clutch position is not clear, starting will be inhibited. RAB
  7. Make sure the drain holes are clear on either side of where the ECU is located. Blocked drain holes will be the only reason that the ECU has been waterlogged. RAB
  8. If you have central locking, the CCU is quite possibly the problem. A relatively common problem with Audi A2's. RAB
  9. Quite possibly it is the CCU that is the problem. A quite common fault with Audi A2's. RAB
  10. Front hubs are different on a 3L, so not an option. Just get the right discs, same as 1L Lupo. Plenty of choice but don't buy the cheapest. False economy. RAB
  11. The early 3L tailgate had a magnesium frame with an aluminium skin. VW replaced it with a steel one because they wanted more weight over the rear wheels. That's why the battery was moved to the rear. Before this modification, the rear bumper had two lead weights. Even efterwards, the bumper still had one lead weight! VW's story is that they did this because the early tailgates were corroding. We have two of these tailgates and after twenty and eighteen years, neither is showing any sign of corrosion. RAB
  12. Nothing to do with the accumulator. The green light goes out when the foot brake is pressed. Or in his case, should. RAB
  13. When you start the car with the lever in S, you need your foot on the brake as this opens the clutch. If putting your foot on the brake doesn't change the status of the green light, you have a faulty brake switch. This will be confirmed by being able to start the car in N. RAB
  14. Again, can you manually move the turbo VNT mechanism? Wheel bearings OK? RAB
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