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RAB last won the day on June 24

RAB had the most liked content!

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    East Sussex

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    E-Up!, Lupo 3L, Audi A2 1.2Tdi

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  1. I'm wrong! I was making the assumption that Lupo A/C would be the same as Audi A2's; not unreasonable? The Lupo clutch is, according to Etka, electro-mechanical whereas the A2 has no clutch. The Up is the same as the Lupo. Never make assumptions! RAB
  2. RAB


    If the seal is below the plug for determining oil level in the gearbox, you will need to drain the oil. It probably needs in anyway. RAB
  3. There's no clutch on the pump. When the A/C is off, the pump still runs but at a minimum level, determined by the swash plate. RAB
  4. I wouldn't mind betting that the pressure switch has failed and is giving a false high reading. If you just had a leak (and low pressure), the fan wouldn't run. The pump always runs (even when A/C is off) unless the safety "clutch" has failed, which happens when the pump has seized. RAB
  5. Use an HVAC company. You most likely have a leak; the condenser is the most likely culprit. Look for traces of oil. An HVAC company should be able to test for leaks but you will then have to repair if they find a leak and then bring them back to refill the system. Replacing the dryer would be a good idea regardless. RAB
  6. RAB


    Are you changing it in situ? It's surely easier to remove the actuator. If changing it in situ, disconnect the hydraulic control module electrically, and unscrew the accumulator half a turn; that depressurises the system. RAB
  7. RAB


    Have you managed to trace the location of the noise? I very much doubt that it would be the actuators. Maybe what you're hearing is normal. RAB
  8. RAB


    If you make a manual gear change with the ignition on, engine off with foot on brake, you will hear it. With the engine running, you shouldn't hear it. When was the last basic setting done? With an assistant, you should be able to locate the source of the noise (engine off). RAB
  9. If the car is not used that much, consider one of these: https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/help-locked-out.40802/#post-365804 RAB
  10. All Lupo 3L's are Euro4. Expecting more from a 1999 vehicle is a bit much - Euro4 didn't come into force until 2005! The only factor that is measured at a UK MOT is smoke, which is hardly the whole story. RAB
  11. Advice would be to fit a brake servo if there isn't one! The car would have been built with one! But really a 3L is not really suitable for the intended purpose. Apart from the GTi and FSi, the 3L has only 20% parts commonality with other Lupos. It is essentially a different car and therein lies the difficulty of "upgrading". The front axle and drive shafts are specific to the 3L - they are not even common with the A2 1.2Tdi! So my advice would be to change the car for something more suitable. RAB
  12. The two holes are those over the bell housing, the "gear" being the flywheel. They should be covered with a rubber moulding. Take care not to get water in there because it might seize the clutch. Oil is about 3 to 3.5L. RAB
  13. Yes a worm/pinion arrangement is hardly ideal since obviously it only works in one direction - the pinion can't drive the worm. Maybe that explains the special ECU which would prevent starting if the mechanism shows any sign of failing, in much the same way that the system works with the clutch/clutch actuator. RAB
  14. The Lupo hydraulic rack looks as if it might be compatible with a 3L but where to put the electric pump - there's not much space available, i.e. none. The electric conversion would probably be easier. The non- P/S 3L steering is not heavy at all but I would imagine that if the motor fails, it would be! RAB
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