RAB

The head bolts are stretch, so they need to be renewed. You really need a workshop manual for this, especially if you haven't done anything like this before. Elsawin is the best choice: https://tools4car.co.uk/product/elsawin6-0/ RAB

I'm wrong! I was making the assumption that Lupo A/C would be the same as Audi A2's; not unreasonable? The Lupo clutch is, according to Etka, electro-mechanical whereas the A2 has no clutch. The Up is the same as the Lupo. Never make assumptions! RAB

If the seal is below the plug for determining oil level in the gearbox, you will need to drain the oil. It probably needs in anyway. RAB

There's no clutch on the pump. When the A/C is off, the pump still runs but at a minimum level, determined by the swash plate. RAB

I wouldn't mind betting that the pressure switch has failed and is giving a false high reading. If you just had a leak (and low pressure), the fan wouldn't run. The pump always runs (even when A/C is off) unless the safety "clutch" has failed, which happens when the pump has seized. RAB

Use an HVAC company. You most likely have a leak; the condenser is the most likely culprit. Look for traces of oil. An HVAC company should be able to test for leaks but you will then have to repair if they find a leak and then bring them back to refill the system. Replacing the dryer would be a good idea regardless. RAB

Are you changing it in situ? It's surely easier to remove the actuator. If changing it in situ, disconnect the hydraulic control module electrically, and unscrew the accumulator half a turn; that depressurises the system. RAB

Have you managed to trace the location of the noise? I very much doubt that it would be the actuators. Maybe what you're hearing is normal. RAB

If you make a manual gear change with the ignition on, engine off with foot on brake, you will hear it. With the engine running, you shouldn't hear it. When was the last basic setting done? With an assistant, you should be able to locate the source of the noise (engine off). RAB

If the car is not used that much, consider one of these: https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/help-locked-out.40802/#post-365804 RAB

All Lupo 3L's are Euro4. Expecting more from a 1999 vehicle is a bit much - Euro4 didn't come into force until 2005! The only factor that is measured at a UK MOT is smoke, which is hardly the whole story. RAB

Advice would be to fit a brake servo if there isn't one! The car would have been built with one! But really a 3L is not really suitable for the intended purpose. Apart from the GTi and FSi, the 3L has only 20% parts commonality with other Lupos. It is essentially a different car and therein lies the difficulty of "upgrading". The front axle and drive shafts are specific to the 3L - they are not even common with the A2 1.2Tdi! So my advice would be to change the car for something more suitable. RAB

The two holes are those over the bell housing, the "gear" being the flywheel. They should be covered with a rubber moulding. Take care not to get water in there because it might seize the clutch. Oil is about 3 to 3.5L. RAB

Substance abuse? RAB

Yes a worm/pinion arrangement is hardly ideal since obviously it only works in one direction - the pinion can't drive the worm. Maybe that explains the special ECU which would prevent starting if the mechanism shows any sign of failing, in much the same way that the system works with the clutch/clutch actuator. RAB

The Lupo hydraulic rack looks as if it might be compatible with a 3L but where to put the electric pump - there's not much space available, i.e. none. The electric conversion would probably be easier. The non- P/S 3L steering is not heavy at all but I would imagine that if the motor fails, it would be! RAB

I don't have a 3L with power steering but the A2 does have electro-hydraulic P/S which looks identical to the Polo P/S. Yes, it looks as if the 3L P/S is built into the column - the rack is the same as a 3L without P/S: https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/lupo++lupo+3l+tdi/lu/2004-441/4/419-419040/ The control unit (not ECU) is also attached to the steering column. The 3L with P/S has it's own ECU, so that may supply a speed signal. RAB

The Lupo 3L power steering is integrated into the steering column so there would be no need to change the rack. The normal Lupo power steering has a totally different rack and would probably require changing the front axle; you would also have problems mounting the pump on the engine. The Lupo 3L P/S would be much simpler to install but you would also need an engine (not gearbox) ECU. Loss of ABS etc would be down to poor coding or incorrect wiring or both. Wouldn't it have been simpler (and cheaper) to buy your wife a 1.4Tdi? RAB

Did you ever read the small print on this page: https://www.ross-tech.com/vag-scope/TDIGraph.html I quote: " Note to PD (pumpe duese aka unit injectors) and CR (common rail) owners: The timing in PD and CR engines is determined electronically by the ECU. There is neither a need nor an ability to check timing on the PD or CR engines using a scan tool. There are no graphs published for the simple reason that the timing is set using a dedicated VAG locking tool when changing the timing belt 🙂 " RAB

Sounds to me like a lot of trial and error! On Fuelly the A2 has a running average of 90.2mpg and the Lupo 89.4. Beat that! RAB

Lupo 3L's with electric P/S have their own ECU version. It has purely electro-mechanical steering, not electro-hydraulic like all other Lupos. You'd need to change the steering column, ECU and wiring. The rack is unchanged I think. Good luck with that! RAB

A bit grumpy? How do you know? What annoys me is people writing about things that they clearly know nothing about! That doesn't necessarily include yourself! I always use both locking tools and then re-check if they still fit after fitting the belt. So checking with VCDS shouldn't be necessary. If it showed that it was wrong, how would you correct it anyway? If you do it without locking tools, it's going to be incorrect anyway and VCDS will only prove it. iwcham wants to fit power steering, not remove it, but he thinks it's electro-hydraulic. RAB

Lupo 3L P/S is electric, not hydraulic. You'll need a different ECU as well. RAB

Evidence? How many 3Ls are there in the UK? Many? Why would you want to do it anyway? Just buy a 1.4Tdi - there's more of them for a start. RAB

Correct! Far easier to repair as is. You have to be pro-active as far as maintenance goes for 3L's. If you are, they are very reliable. All three of our cars have their original gear actuators and hydraulic stations; the original clutch actuators were consumable but you can now convert them to a Hall sensor. RAB