RAB

Most likely, starting is inhibited because there is a fault with transmission hydraulics. Have you checked the transmission oil level. Does the accumulator need replacement - it loses nitrogen over time? VCDS will tell you where the problem is once you have sufficient oil and a good accumulator. Don't try to run a 3L without VCDS! Be pro-active with 3L maintenance otherwise it will become a very expensive hobby! We still have a 3L and it will be for sale soon! RAB

Here's one, although currently out of stock: https://www.auto-doc.ie/optimal/8123463?srsltid=AfmBOorQZUUaTasZWX1IkETuZlf5H_rfk5MxxV6RlXgwGsTXxW0VT_Af Here is another pair: https://www.ebay.de/sch/i.html?_nkw=lupo+3L+Querlenker&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_odkw=lupo+3L&_osacat=0 Stick with the original aluminium suspension. Conversion will be a nightmare. Previously I have paid for new arms because the seals were not available separately - now I know better. You should be able to find somewhere that can repair your arm. The 3L, FSi and GTi shared the same body which is completely different to that used with the remaining models. Thinner but superior steel was used. A useful tip: For those that don't know, the Lupo FSi was the first VW FSi. It was a 5L petrol version of the 3L. It had a different grill, no magnesium steering wheel but it did have rear titanium springs (the first such application)! RAB

Check the level of the hydraulic fluid. To check, unplug the pump unit electrically. Undo the accumulator half a turn with a 24mm spanner. Then tighten up the accumulator then check the level in the reservoir. It should be within the rectangle on the side of the reservoir. Top up with VW steering fluid. Then reconnect the pump module. If you have a leak somewhere, sort it out otherwise the problem will re-occur. You have to be proactive will 3L maintenance. RAB

The potentiometer on your clutch actuator is failing. Best option would be to remove the electrical part of the actuator and send it to Malmank on the German forum (a2-freun.de). He will replace the potentiometer with a Hall Effect sensor, which is a non-wearing part and cheaper than a new actuator. English is OK, email him first. 00262 is indicative that solenoid 3 (N90) is faulty. That's probably one of the solenoids on the gearbox actuator. Once you've made these repairs, do a full scan with VCDS and post it on here. RAB

To anyone wondering, LeatherTan's Lupo 3L is my old one! He knows that now! I sold it on to a VW/Audi specialist but they sold it on to someone else because they could not cure a smokey exhaust. The new owner then complained to me that fuel was diluting the engine oil. He then sold it to LT. LT or his mechanic found the problem: the connection to the injector loom had rubbed up against something and rubbed away all the insulation, even though this connection is covered by conduit! Well done LT and his mechanic. RAB

Still got one! Not for much longer though as it will be up for sale soon. RAB

On better forums you get an email when your attention is required! RAB

RTFM 12 is usually caused by not adjusting the actuator as advised, during the basic setting. Perhaps that's what you found? RAB

Electric lift pumps were only fitted to early Audi A2 TDis, according to 7zap. Our 1999 Lupo 3L doesn't have one for sure. So the tandem pump is the lift pump, not the high pressure pump. The high pressure pump is the injector itself. RAB

Come on, come on! The tandem pump is mechanical, mounted on the end of the camshaft. Early TDis also had an electrical lift pump as well as a tandem pump. RAB

Lupo 3L's in 2000 didn't have the option of power steering. It didn't appear as an option until 2002 or 2003. So what do you have? RAB

I would very much doubt that the blue smoke is due to wear. I did have a similar problem before I sold the car and solved it by replacing the head gasket. Maybe the same problem has returned. When I delivered the car to WOM Automotive it was working perfectly. First thing to do would be a compression test. Make sure that you use the correct adaptor for the glowplug thread - if it's too long it will strip the thread. The previous owner was of the opinion that diesel was diluting the engine oil. If it was entering via the injectors, you would have a lot of black smoke. The only other possibility is from the tandem pump, if that's possible. RAB

Since NOx emissions increase by about 40x when the EGR is bypassed/deleted, you don't need a sensitive, expensive and unreliable analyser such as chemiluminesence; you can use much cheaper IR analysers. There's just one simple valve for EGR; all you have to do is keep the inlet manifold clean which can be done when the VNT mechanism is cleaned. Newer cars are more reliable because they are newer! They are more complicated. Electric is the answer. My last 3L will be sold this year! RAB

Don't do it! You'll invalidate your insurance and increase and increase your NOx emissions by about 40x! For that reason, you'll soon have to reverse your illegal modification: https://www.gov.uk/government/consultations/future-of-transport-regulatory-review-modernising-vehicle-standards/future-of-transport-regulatory-review-modernising-vehicle-standards RAB

There shouldn't be any crud directly under the filter, only at the sides, so how does it enter the outlet? The filter is only intended to filter out fine particles which should be retained by the filter. Anything else should stay in the sump. That's why you should always remove oil by removing the sump plug, not (as VW do) by pumping it out. RAB

Yes! You can't do that on the road. If the clutch reading changes over a few hours, it's the clutch guide sleeve as well. RAB

Clutch actuators are consumable items; don't buy a used one! Might be an idea to do a FULL basic setting, rather than missing out an important part, i.e. ADJUST. RAB

There's no such thing as a good second-hand clutch guide sleeve. Part no. 7 here: https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/lupo++lupo+3l+tdi/lu/2001-231/1/141-141010/ RAB

The gearbox has it's own control unit, so you keep the 3L ECU. But I can't see the point. If you look after the units, they'll last a long time. If you want a manual, buy one! There's also an unpowered steering rack. The powered steering column is similar to that on an Up!. RAB

It has been done but not to RHD. There's no RHD steering rack for a 3L. Why bother? There are as many pros and cons to either LHD or RHD with the exception of overtaking but if moving your head a few feet makes that much difference, it's probably not safe to anyway! It's lack of maintenance that makes running a standard 3L expensive. You have to be proactive! RAB

Your clutch sleeve is on its' way out. RAB

I would say that the VNT mechanism is gummed up. Your turbo needs an overhaul. In future try using non-supermarket fuel; supermarket fuel lacks the additives to keep the VNT mechanism clean. RAB

Most likely the potentiometer of the clutch actuator is beginning to fail. Either buy a new actuator or send the electrical part to Mankmil. See here; https://a2-freun.de/forum/forums/topic/45241-a2-12tdi-gear-selector-not-pushing-down-to-3rd-4th-and-5th-gears/ He will replace the potentiometer with a Hall sensor which is a non-wearing part. English is fine. The second option is the cheapest one and will give a longer life. RAB

There is no English VW Lupo 3L manual as it was not sold in the UK. There might be an Italian one but you might have problems finding one. A copy of Elsawin might be more useful. RAB

Unless you are very sure about the car's condition, I would avoid. Remember the seller is selling for a reason. Component costs of new hydraulic unit and gearbox actuator are now north of £2k each. Otherwise buy but be proactive with maintenance as otherwise it will become very expensive! You will need VCDS and a copy of Elsawin for maintenance. RAB