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Everything posted by RAB

  1. Yes a worm/pinion arrangement is hardly ideal since obviously it only works in one direction - the pinion can't drive the worm. Maybe that explains the special ECU which would prevent starting if the mechanism shows any sign of failing, in much the same way that the system works with the clutch/clutch actuator. RAB
  2. The Lupo hydraulic rack looks as if it might be compatible with a 3L but where to put the electric pump - there's not much space available, i.e. none. The electric conversion would probably be easier. The non- P/S 3L steering is not heavy at all but I would imagine that if the motor fails, it would be! RAB
  3. I don't have a 3L with power steering but the A2 does have electro-hydraulic P/S which looks identical to the Polo P/S. Yes, it looks as if the 3L P/S is built into the column - the rack is the same as a 3L without P/S: https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/lupo++lupo+3l+tdi/lu/2004-441/4/419-419040/ The control unit (not ECU) is also attached to the steering column. The 3L with P/S has it's own ECU, so that may supply a speed signal. RAB
  4. The Lupo 3L power steering is integrated into the steering column so there would be no need to change the rack. The normal Lupo power steering has a totally different rack and would probably require changing the front axle; you would also have problems mounting the pump on the engine. The Lupo 3L P/S would be much simpler to install but you would also need an engine (not gearbox) ECU. Loss of ABS etc would be down to poor coding or incorrect wiring or both. Wouldn't it have been simpler (and cheaper) to buy your wife a 1.4Tdi? RAB
  5. Did you ever read the small print on this page: https://www.ross-tech.com/vag-scope/TDIGraph.html I quote: " Note to PD (pumpe duese aka unit injectors) and CR (common rail) owners: The timing in PD and CR engines is determined electronically by the ECU. There is neither a need nor an ability to check timing on the PD or CR engines using a scan tool. There are no graphs published for the simple reason that the timing is set using a dedicated VAG locking tool when changing the timing belt 🙂 " RAB
  6. Sounds to me like a lot of trial and error! On Fuelly the A2 has a running average of 90.2mpg and the Lupo 89.4. Beat that! RAB
  7. Lupo 3L's with electric P/S have their own ECU version. It has purely electro-mechanical steering, not electro-hydraulic like all other Lupos. You'd need to change the steering column, ECU and wiring. The rack is unchanged I think. Good luck with that! RAB
  8. A bit grumpy? How do you know? What annoys me is people writing about things that they clearly know nothing about! That doesn't necessarily include yourself! I always use both locking tools and then re-check if they still fit after fitting the belt. So checking with VCDS shouldn't be necessary. If it showed that it was wrong, how would you correct it anyway? If you do it without locking tools, it's going to be incorrect anyway and VCDS will only prove it. iwcham wants to fit power steering, not remove it, but he thinks it's electro-hydraulic. RAB
  9. Lupo 3L P/S is electric, not hydraulic. You'll need a different ECU as well. RAB
  10. Evidence? How many 3Ls are there in the UK? Many? Why would you want to do it anyway? Just buy a 1.4Tdi - there's more of them for a start. RAB
  11. Correct! Far easier to repair as is. You have to be pro-active as far as maintenance goes for 3L's. If you are, they are very reliable. All three of our cars have their original gear actuators and hydraulic stations; the original clutch actuators were consumable but you can now convert them to a Hall sensor. RAB
  12. No, the inner edges wear because the front wheels are not parallel when the car is in motion. The inner edge rubs against itself, gets warmer and the rubber gets softer, resulting in wear. You can check this yourself by touching the inner edges after driving. The only way I have found for correcting this is with the Trakrite. Take the car to a garage with fancy laser tracking and they will get it wrong because the VW data is over-pessimistic regarding the slop in their steering mechanisms. My front tyres have been on the car for four years - no sign of wear on the inner edge. RAB
  13. You're not serious, are you? The camber is essentially non-adjustable, the tolerances are to cover manufacturing variance. Do you think that a minute change of camber would make any difference to tyre wear? Only if you're running solid rubber tyres! I had a problem with both our 3Ls wearing tyres on the inner edge. Cured by reducing toe-out and checking for the front wheels running parallel with Gunson's Trakrite. Never had a problem since. If you set the tracking statically, you are relying on VW data which seems to be over-pessimistic. RAB
  14. For what reason? They are linked for a reason. So there would be problems converting to manual. With a 3L transmission, you have to be pro-active, otherwise expensive problems appear. Being pro-active, most problems are simply avoided. RAB
  15. The clutch position is given by the potentiometer. If the signal is noisy then starting in STOP/PARK may be inhibited. However, starting in NEUTRAL should work before the potentiometer degrades too much. A German member of the A2-freunde forum converts original actuators to one with a Hall sensor - cheaper than buying new and should last indefinitely. I have had two converted. A basic setting/recalibration should be done every 30.000km. There's very little clutch wear as slipping the clutch is not possible. A 3L clutch may last 300,000km. You can bump start if you can get it in gear but if the actuator is failing, there's little point. 1.2Tdi was only used in the Lupo 3L and A2 1.2Tdi. There was no Arosa although a prototype may have been built. RAB
  16. You may need a new accumulator - they contain nitrogen which leaks away with time. Another likely cause is a worn potentiometer on the clutch actuator - if the clutch position is not clear, starting will be inhibited. RAB
  17. Make sure the drain holes are clear on either side of where the ECU is located. Blocked drain holes will be the only reason that the ECU has been waterlogged. RAB
  18. If you have central locking, the CCU is quite possibly the problem. A relatively common problem with Audi A2's. RAB
  19. Quite possibly it is the CCU that is the problem. A quite common fault with Audi A2's. RAB
  20. Front hubs are different on a 3L, so not an option. Just get the right discs, same as 1L Lupo. Plenty of choice but don't buy the cheapest. False economy. RAB
  21. The early 3L tailgate had a magnesium frame with an aluminium skin. VW replaced it with a steel one because they wanted more weight over the rear wheels. That's why the battery was moved to the rear. Before this modification, the rear bumper had two lead weights. Even efterwards, the bumper still had one lead weight! VW's story is that they did this because the early tailgates were corroding. We have two of these tailgates and after twenty and eighteen years, neither is showing any sign of corrosion. RAB
  22. Nothing to do with the accumulator. The green light goes out when the foot brake is pressed. Or in his case, should. RAB
  23. When you start the car with the lever in S, you need your foot on the brake as this opens the clutch. If putting your foot on the brake doesn't change the status of the green light, you have a faulty brake switch. This will be confirmed by being able to start the car in N. RAB
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