LR5V

Already has for 2 years!

shoe dye

People say Stilson pipe wrench or large grips - but I always struggle for space down there at the subframe - I got the proper removal tool similar to VW workshop tool, fits over the tie rod - buy it on ebay and then sell it on for a few quid less on Gumtree, try this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7pc-Universal-Inner-Tie-Rod-End-Installer-Remover-Tool-Set-Adjuster-Cars-1-2-UK/283379254256?epid=28011070848&hash=item41fab843f0:g:DbQAAOSwPc9Wz-0V Do not try this type: I tried one of these before buying the tube one - my experience with this they dont bite and just skate around the nut - that piece of rubbish has sat in my tool box ever since! The tube one just works for removal and reassembly, the 1/2 inch socket at the end of the tube is also centered on the tie rod - so accurate torque can be achieved

Hi - Search elsawin on ebay. Hard copies are rare - VW went digital

It was Morrison’s who were selling E85 a while ago -googling it was in 2006 they started & 2010 they stopped. Seem to recall there were issues with the ethanol dissolving parts of the fuel systems. Before that Shell tried a more powerful fuel back in the late 80’s or 90’s, this didn’t agree with some engines - ur-quattro cast iron manifolds were very prone used to cracking because of it amongst others. - shell ended up withdrawing the fuel from sale after much litigation head3d their way. i surpose it’s going to be the same as the change from leaded moving over to unleaded - we will find out what “bits” of the car fails, then replace with resistant items.

Inside of the door gets wet - the glass and seals are not a perfect fit. From the factory the openings into the cabin are covered by a membrane to stop water getting in. Trouble is as time passes this membrane gets torn or cut from maintenance or bigger speakers, all you need to do is fix the holes. If it’s the speaker where the leak is you need to fashion a cover to direct water away from the inside. I would be looking for some thick plastic, take the speaker out, push the plastic into the door - you are trying to make something like a cape to direct drips into the door away from the inside. Fix any other holes with duct tape, then reinstall the speaker and card and you should be good.

Have a look at their stock - all rich guy play things and priced for their clientele. having met them, they probably wanted to put it back together as a track toy to take to the ring

Actually... this is the one listed in the classifieds recently, even the one picture in the listing is the same in this thread: Seem to recall they were looking for £4.5k, Read the ebay listing, they have grabbed it, done nothing and are now just flipping it over.

Welcome. Speak to mart at gas’s gears on Facebook - he can source (cheaper than awesome or dark side) and fit Quaif diff. He Also lightens flywheels, send your pressure plate and he will balance that too. are you limited to original static suspension? oh - and pics or it didn’t happen!

You forgot sand dancers

That’s actually being sold by the garage the PO of mine worked at. They all track small VW’s very interesting stock, they have a nich where they get called by dealers / solicitors to deal with older cars left by the deceased

Not seen any blades as slim as OEM - get chummy with your local TPS

Thinking about it £4K is either 100 hours at £40 or 80 hours at £50 - that’s assuming VAT included - taking vat off your down to £41 & £33 daze rate. Seems very cheap. plus whoever takes on the work is dealing with a lot of used parts and adapting the loom to work with left over in the Lupo - ignoring drive shafts and engine mounts

that may have been the go away price

Do you have the budget? Seem to recall someone saying the going rate for 1.8t conversion at a garage is over £4k in labour for the conversion, thats excluding parts. Anything is possible - If you try really hard you can fit 2x W12 engines into a Lupo

When you get towards the front of the engine - Left side - it sounds to me like a bearing on the way out, grinding sound - most likely alternator - but I would like a second opinion To check the alternator - the belt needs slipping off and then spin the pulley by hand - should be very little sound and spin easily - if it makes noise or difficult to turn its the bearing worn out. As you are booked into a garage they would most likely replace the whole unit - not a difficult job, replacement alternator will be the biggest cost. If it is not the alternator it could be the timing belt idler, or pulley bearings - in the ideal world when the timing belt gets replaced the idler and tensioner gets replaced, sometimes for cheapness people just replace the belt, leaving the expensive old parts in place, sometimes second hand car dealers do this to make the car more saleable - if it is this, just get the belt, pulley and idler replaced together, not a hard job for a good mechanic, but takes a bit longer to do than the alternator. I would say either job will probably be between £150 to £300 - but this depends on the rate the garage charges per hour and mark up on parts, I can see your in Brizzle - inner city garages can be pricey - Hope that helps

Thinking about it again -afraid its been a while - I assume that PO had the 4-1 decat pipe, found it too loud so had a 100 cell cat added -but looking at the picture below of mine dropped, the cat looks very similar to KAM one: I would go for the 200 cell sports cat 4-1 down pipe and the quieter system for the back box.

Just looking it the sausage link, thats a very talented owner - made his own air suspension, those wheels he designed himself! Its aired out in the pic - and the squares in the tail lights are wider - so suspect its been stretched in photoshop to look wider Best thing about Deloreans is you can do this with no shame:

It was the Peugeot/Volvo/Renault/Volvo v6, transaxle gearbox, Lotus did the chassis tuning... sounds great on paper but the stainless steel wasn’t light and the v6 underpowered, they were really slow and the reliability was terrible -the thatcher funded new plant built in Belfast did not have experienced staff, the Lupo Gti will be considerably quicker. a company in the states bought all the old parts once John Delorean got banged up for dealing Peruvian marching powder to prop up the whole organisation, they can actually build a new delorean

Have you tried selling it to Sam?? - tell him to sell the horse! -he said he really missed his...

Thanks - but wish they stood up to closer scrutiny

Welcome Mine came fitted with KAM manifold and non-resonated exhaust, so I can't compare it to standard - the PO said it was too loud and had a silencer added - I have to say its plenty loud enough in its current state, when up in the high revs its quite musical. They used to be on here - and think they used to offer discount, best to pick up the phone and see - I spoke to them once, they seemed sentimental about the Lupo, so you may be lucky. Spacers - they widen the track and make the car feel more planted, hub centric are what you need. Look online for guides, they should walk you through your choices - Take care that you have enough bolt in your hub, the more expensive ones bolt onto the hub and you use your existing bolts, but this means quite a wide spacer. It may take a few goes to get the correct size that suits for looks and doesn't rub

A VW tool T10073 finally popped up on Ebay, hopefully it is currently winging its way from Lithuania. More Mk5 stuff - sourced some very cheap calipers for £20, but the rub was they looked like they had been in a swamp. They both stripped down without brakages, one piston was very seized and the bleed valves came out with heat and penetrating fluid - this is the Ebay Add pics: Hardest part was getting the powder coating off - tried brake fluid - nothing, Nitromors -didn't touch it - I had to source some industrial Starchem Synstrip, this worked but only took a bit off each time - very long process and didn't get the best condition caliper fully clean The corrosion was really bad too, kept trying different stuff, but like the powder coating it wasnt shifting. Somewhere in my garage is the last of the stuff I used to clean up the gearbox - but I couldn't find it and didn't want to buy more. Digging around google, I found someone on youtube claiming caustic soda worked, found some Mr Muscle drain cleaner that also had caustic in it. in a sweety tub went caliper and drain cleaner - this is what happened: took a good few goes but the corrosion fizzed off. Took the trouble to file down the casting marks: I chose to use Halfords red caliper paint, this wasn't great - took a lot of layers to cover the alloy, liked to drip and last FU from it was on reassembly I sprayed a bit of brake cleaner to remove some grease and it started to dissolve! For the amount of effort the result was OK, paint let it down:

If you go for mk4 lines - the only other thing is the banjo block needs filling down to fit the Lupo brake caliper. just looked in my eBay history, these look similar 401258918527 £30 for a pair

I trust new nuts and bolts is a given? Source new clips for ABS cables, brake lines - it is very likely the current ones will shatter when you try to remove them. I sourced some really cheap mk4 brake lines for the run down the beam, they do work, but need a bend to reduce the length - they turned up and were cunifer line with stainless connections -complete bargain. Seem to recall I posted a link a link to them in my build, but that was 18 months ago...ish! I would go with rust converter then paint. What bushes are you planning to use? Getting the old bush out is fun - drill out the rubber around centre bush, hammer out centre and then carefully saw into the metal outer - the width of the blade will release the tension. if you chop the hoses plan how you are going to block them off, I didn’t do that and had a bit of bother bleeding mine after they had bled out completely bearings can be troublesome to come off - if your lucky they will come off in one go and not need replacement, I was unlucky and one split, last attempt at MOT it came out as an advisory. May be good to budget for new bearings