LR5V

Will drag mine out of the garage and run it up tomorrow measuring blocks 12 and For my own interest I’ll get 91 too at different speeds

Thanks - don't know why I had not posted it before Wish it still looked that good - the gearbox in then out and back in again solo took its toll on the powder coating at the near side front of the subframe

No - getting the ARB the wrong way round would be quite impressive - There is a hoop in the middle sticking up, if it was the wrong way round it would be scrapping the ground, this was my built up subframe after rebuild:

They should be a tight fit onto the ARB - I recall at the time it was so tight I thought I had the wrong size bush. If you are getting changes in direction mid-bend it is likely to be something moving around. Mine used to do weird stuff pushing hard on roundabouts, fine on entry turning left, but turning right the back end would start trying to oversteer - Take a look at drivers side rear beam bush looking for movement front to back - mine was toast, basically front was turning right and rear beam was twisting making rear wheels toe to the left

Try Measuring block 91, should be camshaft 1, just to see what value the cam is giving - & to check it is getting signal

People seem to struggle with the Zip file - still works for me - but Sausage added a link to Rubjonny's Gdrive

check you hatch, it may be still in there

Could it be a faulty indicator, even when the stalk is centred, keeping the parking lights on?

I found this a document a while ago, its VW own guide to the box, its not technical but will give you a better idea whats inside - 6th gear and bearings: http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_237_d1.pdf I try to keep out of gearboxe internals, cant say if the cover will pull off and go back on without issue - @mk2 is good with gearboxes, hopefully chip in - suspect you could drop the engine and box down to clear the chassis leg to pull the cover off to replace the seal with a rubber one. Only concern is, this is a bodge done by someone who has gone in, the question is what were they doing in there and if they were content to use RVT how competent were they?

Actually I made an arse of the first picture! - looking at it again, my picture above is of the drain - better picture drain from the top: All my box cleaning pictures dont have anything for the engine side - nothing of the fill point! Back to your leak - The area you highlighted should be a rubber gasket on that end cover - would have thought it unlikely to start leaking Are you sure its gear oil? check the clutch line and slave cylinder for leaks

its looking a bit wet down there - do you know what is leaking?

Yes - you have found the fill and drain - heres a clearer view of the fill point: I filled mine with the box out of the Lupo, its 1.9 for 5 speed and a very annoying 2.1 litres for 6 speed Make sure the fill can undo before doing the drain

Glad your sorted now - did you get someone to hold the socket on? sound like it just twisted off

Only use the following as a last gasp option - Ever struggled to undo a crank pulley bolt with socket and bar? - socket on bolt, breaker touching ground and using the cranking of the engine to undo the bolt Found this as an example - With care - the same thing can be done with stuck wheel bolts, but instead of chassis leg put the breaker bar on the grund, only need to drive the car a few inches in direction to undo the bolt - best to have a second pair of eyes watching the wheel

Replies in Blue - I suspect you would be better off leaving the caliper connected. Hammerite smooth seems to be the best paint to use, great coverage and performance - from a recent experience with Halfords caliper paint I would not recommend that product.

7zap N10648301 try ebay

Good stuff taking in rescue greyhounds - such a shame so many are got rid off once they get too old or just no good at racing In case of accidental leaks and also improved headroom for the hounds to stand and hold their head up - I would still take the seats out - you could get the floor level just below the the hatch sill. I used to work with a guy who took in rescue alsatians - last count was 11 - he had a transit specifically for taking them for walks!

There certainly is enough head room for them - are they rescue ones? I would take out the seats entirely, and put in a false floor - use rear seat belt anchor points to fix the doggy cage

That adapter going into the back of the radio is not the best set up - but despite this, the radio should still work - sometimes the antenna lead in the fist picture does not make a solid connection with the adapter in the second picture - some careful squeezing with pliers should tighten that up. Test the radio works before putting the head back in, and with the lead being at 90 degrees it likes to drop off as you put the head unit back in - tape the lead to the other side of the back panel of the head and it should stay put.

Not sure if this has been posted before - but this gem popped up my Youtube feed: Those are proper race drivers storming around a track. Sadly, there is no auto generated english subtitles -the only Japanese I could make out was "wheelspino" at the start and the poor sod driving the C2 said "French shiiite!"

Try 4.8x14

That just sounds like the coolant fan blade touching something -at least its very doing it gently. Its difficult to look at as its within the panel - have you checked the fan is secure and the fiberglass supports solid? Edit - loving the Gold heat wrap

I think you need to stand over it and watch when the fan kicks in - you previously mentioned an off - could it be damage in the front panel allowing the fan to be off axis till it gets up to speed?

Mine was rubbing at the rear, it was shot beam bushes.

You need the rings as the window mechanism is close to the inner door and standard speakers have a spacer Seem to recall I fitted 6.5 speakers in the door, The rings are cheap so no real biggy The factory cables have an inline crossover to take the high frequency signal to the tweeter in the dash and lower frequency to the woofer in the door - so don’t fit co-axial speakers, tweeters will be doing nothing - unless you are bipassing the factory cables