Jump to content

ArosaScott

Members
  • Content Count

    60
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

ArosaScott last won the day on April 11 2020

ArosaScott had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

7 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lincolnshire

Previous Fields

  • Currently Driving
    Seat Arosa 1.0s (Mk2)

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Update. 200mm needed, replaced rear shoes and drums with ease, while i was there also changed my rear shocks also 2x16mm Spanners to drop bottom bolt and then i used a rachet 16mm spanner and a 6mm spanner to hold the top point to undo the top thread, replaced shock, and went with Monroe dust cover and bump stops.
  2. Going to replace my rear shoes and drums, but looking online there seems to be two sizes. 180mm / 200mm which size is correct? with a 7" / 8" rear Drum. Also worth replacing all the springs while im at it? (Seat Arosa, 04 Plate, 1.0s)
  3. Thank you for the information. Is this something i can go to my local VW parts store, or able to buy online at all?
  4. Ok thinking of doing a full flush and replace of the coolant as ive now owned the car just over 2 years and i don't know when it was last done before my ownership. So heres the question what do i use, as a google tells me G12 Red some now say G13 .. I also see G12's / G13's in different colours and some are even a G12+ Can anybody link me to what i need. Seat Arosa 2004 1.0s
  5. @Rich Wait, really? I'll have to investigate it. Any idea of the size, and will i have to run my own speaker wires?
  6. @Rich I actually do have somewhere in the garage a fiberglass parcel shelf i bought off eBay last year with the intention of fitting some 6x9's but still not done it yet, im great at buying stuff to do jobs, or thinking ill get this that and the other done and leaving it ages! @mk2 I'll try get some pictures at some point should i ever go to change something or if i hear a rattle, its very straight forward only pain is the rivets. You wouldn't even tell i had changed the speakers if you was to look at it, all looks OEM
  7. Speakers all replaced, and a great improvement from the old blown speakers (left 1 had a split in) - Remove 4 philip headscrews on door card and remove door card. Door card will come down in a downwards motion. - Unclip speaker wire adapter from speaker. (Squeeze tabs either side and pull) - Use a drill and drill bit to drill out the 4 rivets holding the speaker in place. - Screw new Speaker Adapter plate in (I used a set of U Clips and Small screws) Adapter plate is needed or when window goes down it will hit the speaker magnet - Connect wires to new speakers and r
  8. I am not replacing the tweeters near the windowscreen only the door speakers, door speaker size is 6.5 inch. You'll need to either buy the surrounds, or make your own so the window can go down or it hits the speaker magnet.
  9. Thank you @LR5V I'll get some ordered.
  10. I get most of my parts from either AutoDoc or EuroCarParts. The delivery times on AutoDoc are slightly longer as it all comes from Germany but they have a live chat so you can make sure the part you're getting will fit. EuroCarParts has been hit and miss also, great for servicing parts but not so good when i ordered a new standard backbox for my Arosa and they swore blind the one they sent me would 100% fit the car, in the end i had the car up on ramps and took pictures to show them it was nowhere near close to fitting. Last resort is eBay but don't go by the will this fix my car checker
  11. Thanks for the tips so far guys, as theyre pop riveted in does anybody know the size of either pop rivet to replace the fixings, or what size nut and bolt inc length i would need, so i can have them all ready to go when it all gets here.
  12. Just a couple of questions on front door card speaker replacements. 1) Do you 'NEED' the door speaker adapter plates? If so can you say what size? 2) Am i right in thinking the Speaker size for replacement is 6.5in Anything else i should invest in to make job more easy? Thank You
  13. Ok, i can add to this also. Before i moved to a DAB unit i tried a shorter bee sting aerial and it didn't pick up the normal FM channels as good as the standard one. The aerial unscrews from the base till it wont unscrew no more and then holding the black base with one hand just the aerial a tug and it should release from the base. The normal standard aerial will NOT work with a 'splitter' for DAB, you'll need a powered aerial or one of the DAB windscreen mounted jobs.
  14. I wrote a post up about this a couple months ago, and didn't really get to the bottom of the same issue as what you sound like you're having. We have looked at the pedal box as much as possible with visually looking, HDR Camera photos taken and checked and we had a bore scope around the back where the naked eye and camera cant see and we don't see any cracks, hairlines or anyhting of that nature. My creak is sometimes there and sometimes not. It comes and goes and ive jsut come to the line of thought that ill continue to drive it until something gives, but all the pedals are the same hei
  15. Update. So today i managed to get it all fitted and results are great, for a 'windscreen aerial' I didn't really want the aerial stuck to my window as i think they're ugly things so tried a mixture of different places to try hide the aerial from view. Some had 'ok' results and some not so much so, i tried hiding the aerial behind the panel in the passenger footwell, using the metal as a ground but the copper flex aerial caused static when touching the body work also so that was a no go, and then i looked at running it up the and along the window screen to where the rear view mirror
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.