Sausage

My mind reading skills are failing me....

Depending on how much a hooligan you were in the snow and ice then defo have a careful look at your tyres. Unless the snow / ice is deep enough to prevent your tyres hitting tarmac, they get scrubbed pretty easy. It's also pretty easy to slide the car into a bank or kerb and put the tracking / alignment out ....

Did you change anything else on the car the same time as the coilovers like wheels and tyres? How low is the car?

Soft milk chocolate, not some hard as nails dark stuff either. If the whine matches speed then it's probably the diff, or output shaft bearings, those boxes have a very prone to failure bearing on the end of the output shaft.

Mine was insta start until the cold snap then it took about 1 - 2 seconds. The cold weather will show up weak batteries and starters every time,if it isnt cranking fast enough it wont start very easy.

Grippy shoes and strong fingers should help you on your way....(sorry couldnt resist)

The gearbox would need rebuilding every other weekend as well. :p

If you slammed it low then the steering toe in / out will probably be altered as well, add on top your excessive neg camber and you will be twitchy and wandering all over the shop. Make sure the camber is equal and not excessive and get your tracking checked.

OK just took mine out for about 12 miles, mine goes to 90 then settles down to a steady 85. And from previous experience If i leave it idling for long enough the fan kicks in, not sure how long but guessing probably 20 - 30 minutes from cold, i like to know the fan kicks in you see LOL.

H'mmm, sounds like it's a bit cool then. Thermostat changed? If it warms up quickish it's probably OK but if you cant be arsed messing with coolant and thermostats this time of year then some cardboard will help for now. There's a thread about grill blocking in this section btw.

I dont know if that's normal as i havent driven mine enough to find out, but if you think it's overcooling a bit you could try blocking half the radiator with cardboard or something and see what it does then. You'd need to take it out when the weather gets warm though. When does the cooling fan cut in?

Search the site for GTi conversion and lots of threads come up with these questions and answers. The answers depend on what car you are converting from and what GTI engine you are hoping to use. The 1.4 sport box is an 085 box and wont fit afaik, it needs the 02j box from tdi or gti and if you want sport ratios then you are pretty much only going to be wanting the gti box. Easiest route to gti seems to be the polo gti engine and box by all accounts. I am strickly diesel myself so not the man to ask.

The only thing left is the heater matrix, if the engine is at temp and you have no air locks then that leaves the matrix being blocked. When you flushed it what came out? if you can physically get a hand on the matrix and pipes to and from it while it should be hot then that might help. Could be the heater controls / valve or whatever that opens closes isnt working properly.

The green fluff strikes again. You can probably clean them and they will work, but really these switches are pants. I put a new one in mine and it is so sensitive as to how well seated the new switch is in the connector housing that often it wont go down, i hot glued it in position to take up the 0.5mm slack required and it was fine for a few days then back to not working again. I'll be investigating alternatives soon me thinks.

Does it make the click noise (like a window fully up does) going up and down? or just one way and nothing the other? And the old motor and regulator does exactly the same even with no glass in it? You really need a multimeter for this sort of thing btw...

Where is the window glass when it clicks on the switch? I'd manually drop it down if it's at the top and see if it can move with the motor then. Your motor may be weak or the mech needs a bit of aligning.

Voltage regulator comes to mind if your fuel gauge is all over the shop now. I dont know if the arosa / lupo uses one or not though on the clocks. But as both clusters dont work properly and it was intermittent at 1st then it's probably something else. Lots of torch and mirror and multimeter time awaits you most likely...

sounds like the front end has been under water LOL..

http://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain

No the one that was on there that i cant seem to fiddle with. will be buying an ECU and playing with different files soon. Passed MOT yesterday LOL.

Nice one! My TDI goes like stink.

If the back wheels are warm after a run they are binding a bit, at junctions or when stopping you can tell if it's binding by how it rolls to a slow stop and of it rolls a bit on it's own when released again. It could be cheap pads with a sh1tty wear rate. If the brake compensation valve isnt working the rear will tend to lock up on weight transfer of hard braking.

What that tiny little picture icon sitting halfway on my non existent profile picture that is barely bigger than my mouse pointer on the far left of the screen? Now that IS obvious.

No avatar and cant see an obvious way to add one again.