Sausage

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLKSWAGEN-AUDI-SEAT-SKODA-1999-2014-FUEL-PUMP-IN-TANK-6Q0919051F-/162391100796?fits=Model%3ALupo&hash=item25cf438d7c:g:7gEAAOSwWxNYnfoW

Only that the hot air intake wont be so good or non existent in the winter and if it flows much more air than standard your mixture might be a bit weak which might lead to pinking or burnt valves but i doubt you will have any issues apart from an annoying induction roar tbh.

How are we supposed to know the reg if you dont? Go look thru your old insurance docs and emails and see if you can find old policies or tax or sorn stuff for that period you owned it.

Just drive it like a Mother Superior for the 1st year and get some No Claims Discount under your belt would be my advice, the speed limits are just that, speed limits, so avoid the easy temptation to exceed them or view them as the speed you must be going. For a start it is expensive when you get tickets and points and that is the last thing you need as a new driver trying to get reasonable insurance premiums. Defensive driving is the way to go: https://www.roaddriver.co.uk/safety-tips/what-is-defensive-driving/

Pretty sure it's a captive nut in the body for that, so if it threads in but spins when trying to tighten it the captive nut is spinning. Not good. If you pull the bolt back out assuming it now undoes see if it has metal slivers on it, if so the nut has stripped, if not it is spinning. You can force downward pressure on the captive nut to try and stop it spinning by levering between the subframe and body while tightening the bolt, (best done with an impact gun though as it is faster). If that fails then you are looking at cutting an opening in the chassis rail and welding the captive nut back on, then welding up the opening after.

TDI are miles better, end of discussion. 1. it has a turbo. 2. you can remap it cheaply. 3. it has a proper gearbox on it. i was getting around 50mpg from mine, more on a run obviously 60+mpg but tbh i didnt do enough miles in it to get meaningful figures, but hooning it around was about about 50 which was slightly disappointing really.

I dont know as i haven't messed with ride height on mine I just left it where it was at approx -50mm, but you need coilovers for much more than that, you can mess with seats and stops etc and get -100mm or so, but anything like the silver one needs air, chassis notches etc. It would be undrivable btw so not doable on springs.

No exerience on the Lupo with this sort of thing as I have other cars, but get the roof bars as far apart as possible and balance the weight as best you can, will probably need a bright coloured rag on the tail of the load if overhanging several feet. When i got my Lupo I did intend for it to become my only car and thought about fitting roof rails (running the length of the roof) from a different vehicle as they give a better option for roof bars and are more secure, I looked for suitable ones but didnt get any further as they had to be cheap enough to sacrifice if it wasnt going to work as would probably need some cutting / welding and had to look as though they would look reasonably OEM when finished (i.e have the right shape etc). it's probably easier to make some from scratch than try and graft others on tbh.

That is an awesome move, remap that mofo to 100+HP and you are laughing.

Fronts do most of the work I'm guessing around 80%. Sticky caliper sliders can cause judder / snatching but that would be usually be one wheel, as the tyre starts to wear unevenly it gets worse over time.

Yes it wont be your hubs then after all. Do the new discs solve the judder for a bit and then it comes back? I assume you have checked or moved the relevant wheels and tyres? You can test your old disks now with the dti as well.

Use the old ones with some thread lock as long as the bolts are good.

You will probably have to take the hub and knuckle off the car and split the hub from the knuckle then measure the hubs for run out on a lathe or whatever you can find, assuming there's no pay in the bearings then it's either bearings were put in badly or the hubs are bent from an accident or something.

What did that brake check involve and was it like that before it was done?

If it's knackered stick another 1.0 in it, if it isnt then just sell it and buy a faster one would be my advice. cheaper insurance and a lot less hassle.

Tension would be on my list to check and probably loosen a tad (despite what the tensioner says). You may want to listen with a pipe or sethoscope to make sure it is belt as opposed to water pump etc though. My Tdi makes a nice noise from the belts like a supercharger when revs rise which i actually really like, I'm guessing it is the ribbed belt but tbh havent made much effort to confirm although i have inspected the cambelt when i got the car and it it looked very good and tension seemed good (belt twist with fingies method). plus the noise seems to be bottom end rather than top of belts.

I have one on my tdi and it's in the middle setting, not tried any other position though.

What engine is it?

You might find it useful to know the 085 Lupo box is made of chocolate, so having several spare ones will be a necessity.

Define "banging noise".

Christ, it's like the concept of not writing the guide live was impossible to grasp. Do a bit, write it down, take photos, do a bit more write it down take the photos, rinse and repeat the main steps until completed. Then go edit the scribblings and pics into a coherent order and after proof reading a few times post THAT, how ****ting hard can that be?

probably very similar to these: http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/polo-mk4/brake_systems/brake_brake_mechanics/rear_wheel_drum_brake_repair/rear_wheel_brake_remove_and_install/ http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/polo-mk4/brake_systems/brake_brake_mechanics/rear_wheel_drum_brake_repair/reposition_the_brake/ http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/polo-mk4/brake_systems/brake_brake_mechanics/rear_wheel_drum_brake_repair/brake_drum_repair/ http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/polo-mk4/brake_systems/brake_brake_mechanics/rear_wheel_drum_brake_repair/brake_shoes_remove_and_install/

Was it 0 on cyl 1 or just low?

13 psi? Guessing that's 130? Head off time then...

I have a knackered 085 box, will have to take a look at the state of the shaft though...