mk2

Yeah.

i sense an owner that will look after this one... don't use SVO in it though. It has the new style injectors which really really don't like veggie oil. The teeny tiny holes clog with hardened glycerol, which forms inside the injectors after you switch off.

That wiring diagram shows you the places you could check... you can see how if a relay were faulty, large swathes of the loom are without power.

Welcome to club lupo! (I used google translate) User manual, you will need to find locally, in Italian. For maintenance there are drawings, try here- https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/etka/volkswagen/ http://www.oemepc.com/vw/main_group/markt/RDW/modell/LU/year/2005/drive_standart/441/hauptgruppen/1234567890/lang/e You can use Polo 6N manuals.

Why are you trying to mod it... you need the amp. Rev limit is usually set by the ecu.

On a completely standard, unmodified car, 'S' spec, I'm sure it was something to do with the CCU (convenience control unit). Problem I think is related to door locks (microswitches), where if the CCU thinks the door is still open when it's locked, it keeps power alive ready to start or something??? Am I on the right lines? Damned vdub door locks...

0.04 ohms is good. wire is ok. next..!

I'll second that. Just buy a car with a 1.8T as supplied by OEM cheaper in the long run. Simply strip it out to an almost bare shell. Completely legal (although uncomfortable).

From my limited knowledge on the subject as I've not had an accident yet (!), if people are injured or killed (as in there may have been a crime committed), then they look at everything - including light switch position, wiper switch position, tyre pressures, brake fluid level, wiper condition, tread, brakes pads & discs, seat mounting, steering condition and fluid levels, air in injector rails and fuel pipes etc etc. Basically, anything that affects safety and behaviour of the car. So engine, of course. And welcome to CL!

Dumb question probably... but as the hubs on 3Ls are different to regular Lupos, do they fit a regular or/and a GTi? and what tyres go on them?

I don't do FB...

Oh, you just got to tell us all the news! Any pics? Extraordinary excursions are always something to discuss for us lessor mortals.

The egr control solenoid is below the left blue thing in your pic. The pipe from it goes to the egr valve to the left of the dip stick. Where are you in the uk? One of us here maybe nearby... otherwise, might be a quick fix for an autoelectrician. You need to check the feed from K46 in that diagram. The power goes through the k46 switch contact which powers everything.

EGR valve sounds ok. You should see at least 11v on the plug to the EGR valve when it's operating. if you pop off the air pipe (fitted with the air temp sensor) between the air filter box and the EGR air choke valve, then start up, you should see the valve closed once it's idling (Make sure nothing gets sucked into it!). If you blip the throttle you should see it open then close again. If it stays open all the time, the EGR circuit to the valve isn't providing power to the choke solenoid. The choke valve operates using vacuum force/power (same as the EGR valve).

Yeah I have one of them in my silver SDI, connected to the MCD head unit I fixed. It also has a USB port as well as an analogue in. But I thought that it'd be neat if I could get the same functionality without needing to plug in a memory stick or my phone directly into the headphone jack. The interface would be completely wireless, and even if I left it in my pocket, it'd work. One of my Lupos has the Philips car audio system which I got on Ebay for almost nothing. It is an amazing system, complete with DAB. But it's the blue tooth function I use the most. https://www.philips.co.uk/c-p/CE153DR_05/carstudio-car-audio-system So I thought it'd be good if I could replicate that functionality with the standard vdub Beta cassette player based unit, to keep the OEM look. A secret function in an old radio...

This is really great info! 👍🏻 Where did you find it?

Nah, you can't mess with injection sequence... all unmessable. Mechanical. The poor running is the injection timing pickup (inj no. 3) signal not getting through to the ECU. You'll see that that injector looks different to the others. It's a rather nifty way for the system to check and adjust the injection timing while it's running. If it doesn't get the signal, it locks the timing at somewhere around TDC. Same goes for the air temp sensor- it locks the air temp at probably 10c or something.

Yeah, the error message you get from the intake air temp says it. "High voltage". Means either the loom power rail or earth rail are loose or not connecting correctly. My hunch is still a relay, but could be ignition switch. Check the power voltage on the EGR solenoid connection. That may help, as it's easy to get to.

Pull the egr vac hoses out... (and block the ends so they don't suck air in). That'll give you a smidge more power.

I generally use a multimeter on a car to check power volts (typically around 12.5v not running and 14.1 running) and continuity (beep function). If a circuit is meant to be powered, it's usually at 12 or 5v. Sensors generate an output between 1 to 4.5v. Anything else is suspect and can be caused by a dodgy contact or switch. Checking a wire is actually getting power through is best done by connecting a meter probe one end and at the other. So when there's power at point A, and nothing at B, you can check the wire using the beeper. No beep means a break. Also a good way to check for shorts between a wire that shouldn't be earthed and you might get an earth because of a break in insulation or something rubbing through. I guess the trick is to find where the power is coming from and work your way from the source. Battery to fuse panel, usually ok. So working from the fuse terminal to the next point along the chain, then a switch, then a relay, another switch and so on. So somewhere there might be a loose joint or a corroded contact preventing power getting through.

My fav colour. Just wish one of my SDIs was like it. I wonder who's it is, with nice wheels...

100% not the ECU. Sounds like the B+ line supplying most of the engine loom. Which like you say comes via a relay, controlled by ignition relay and ig switch... you need to get in behind the fuse panel. Try swapping the relays first, or at least getting a multimeter out. Could be ig sw, which is also a common failure. pics please!

Does the coolant level drop over time? Should be pink or purple antifreeze too- the blue stuff will actually corrode the engine and make things worse. I've never changed one on a Lupo, but heard horror stories about how much work it is. Apparently, when building a new Lupo in the factory, the first thing to go down the line after paint is the heater matrix. Then all the other bits are assembled around it. It's like trying to get to the earth's core. Maybe @Rich has some good ideas if it does need to come out.

Don't overtighten... they don't need to be stupidly tight. I once stripped the thread on a brand new CV joint while tightening it to the correct torque. Maybe non OEM nuts can't take as high a torque level....

Don't drive it. Might be something minor, or serious, but still at a point where it's fixable without serious cost. lots more info please Bad very loud noises usually are pretty much terminal. But could just be something loose. Maybe cam belt jumped a tooth (serious)? Could be chain tensioner needs replacing. Could be gearbox related. Could be a CV joint? Difficult to say without hearing it in person. The question is though, if you head out with it again first thing tomorrow and you breakdown at the worst possible location, mid traffic in the rain, where the car can't be moved without a recovery truck, do you have a plan? Activate that plan now... A recovery might cost more than the repair.