mk2

There's a lupo with manual windows in A1's in Wokingham. I've nabbed the handles, but the mech's still there.

Explains why I picked up a set for just £7. Basically, they last the life of the car... No need to stock spares that can't be shifted. Clearance. That auto box will be worth something if good. 👍🏻They usually self destruct and write off the car.

I've been thinking the very same. I like the golf country. Might even pop over to Germany to buy one, one day. The way the Mk2 is done is using a type of under chassis, which is simply bolted straight on. The engine sits lower in the engine bay too, as the subframe is lower. Just about everything is stock apart from the steering column, brake pipes and suspension. You need the 4wd system too. The fromt and rear nudge bars wouldn't be hard (standard item, modified), although the rear was only added because the rear diff made the floor too shallow. Might be able to get away with it on the lupo.

Drum brakes of course... Just wondering as I had a need to sort out the rear brakes on my silver SDI. Had the car nearly 7 years now. When I got it, I checked the rears and they were like new, hardly worn at 65k. Now at 120k, still hardly worn. But the handbrake didn't really work, so decided to strip, inspect and replace if needed. Date code was still on there, genuine vdub shoes (!!!) from 2001. Obviously the brakes that came with the car from new. So the problem became apparent once everything was off. The handbrake hinge cable lever arms were seized almost solid. So when you pull the brake, the brakes go on, sort of, but not enough. And didn't release much. Lots of handbrake arm movement. Also explains why there was very light binding. Solution was to swap to new brake shoes. But before fitting the new ones, decided to make sure the brand new lever worked smoothly. It didn't...! So worked in a small amount of CV grease until it worked easily. No excess grease anywhere. Now, the handbrake works with finger tip effort. Sorted. Handbrake turns to impress...

LMAO! 😂🤣😂 He got banned from club Polo a while back... But that said, this forum wouldn't be the same without @Rich. @danno and @mscherryviolet used to liven things up, but they've moved onto bigger wheels. I've given up with the other forums too. They've either gone super nerdy or really thick. The US vdub forums are still a good read though.

They are fixable. Once you've carefully removed the back, you see how thing goes together. There are little metal discs with 3 legs keeping them in place. Usually the circuit board has some corrosion. Clean it, relube with silicone grease. Clean the disc contact points too. Then reassemble. Nothing to break since they're already not working

Check on the pressure for the oil feed to the turbo. On some engines, there's a restrictor in the supply line to the bearings to stop the seals blowing out when the oil is cold. I'm not sure you can supply the straight oil pressure feed from the gallery direct to the turbo bearings. I don't know.

Drilling out bolts...

Just trying to figure out how it works... When I did tech school, we were all taught to never have switch contacts that "touch" closed. They're always meant to "wipe" closed. When they touch, stuff can get inbetween and prevent a good circuit. When they wipe, they 'self clean'. It looks like a 3 way switch. Off- cntre not touching anything, both closed. On, centre connected to both, both closed. Cranking, one open, the other closed, connected to centre. Weird. GM and Ford are a better design. Hey, at least you fixed it and have helped out loads of other Lupo people. 👍🏻

He's Durham and can do it under an hour apparently. Takes me 2. Half an hour clean up afterwards. Swarf everywhere.

From memory, the only major mod is the sump because the 1.9 sits at a different angle (different box). You need the turbo oil drain welded on. The feed I think you can tap in as it's blanked off. Not sure if a plate or just not drilled out in production. But thinking about it, you might be able to go through the oil pressure switch feed. I don't know. You'll run out of air feed space pretty quick too. 1.4, 3 pot components would come in handy there. Use the bits from the AMF engined Lupo. If you can locate the intercooler in the same spot??? That'll be tricky. Where are u in the Uk? There are "a few" 1.4 AMF polos in our local breakers right now. Loads of 1.9 TDIs. Just had a mad idea- how about running the turbo drain back in through the cam cover?

Yeah, it's interesting how the OEM map literally limits the torque, giving such a flat curve. To protect the box I suppose. The box is apparently almost the same as the old 1L polo breadvan internally. @battlebus said he'd just keep replacing the bearings and run an EP75W140 limited slip diff oil to help reduce teeth wear! Mad 😋 My gearbox guy told me that he's seen the casing split where the pinion bearing is. The case goes before the teeth! When I did experiments a couple of years back, i realised that there is a relationship between nozzle size and smoke. Must have something to do with atomisation of the fuel as it's being squirted out. Bigger holes means you can get more fuel through in the same time slot, but worse mixing because of the larger droplet sizes. I wish there was a portable smoke opacity meter that could be carried onboard so it'd be possible to map the car to its limit based on smoke rather than power. I found that injecting a fraction earlier reduces smoke, but makes the engine much more knocky. I guess it gives the bigger droplets more time to burn whilst the piston is going down, before BDC and the exhaust opens. From memory, stock injectors are 0.175 holes. The TDI runs 0.215 or maybe 0.225. 5 holes. In the US someone makes 6 or 7 hole injectors at 0.175, giving good atomisation while increasing fuel throughput at the same time (7x0.175 is a lot more squirt than 5x0.175). Ideal. But stupidly expensive. I've never figured out how the 1.9 does it. The combustion chamber is identical, as is the swirl. Compression's the same too at low revs. And yet very little smoke. I think the 1.9 plate limit is 0.9. Though the 1.7 plate says 0.7. I wonder what it is on the 3L (@RAB can u have a look on your sticker?) How do you get through an MOT? What software do you use to change the maps, and do you do it via OBD or soldering (emulator)? I used to have a rolling road, but not any more since moving.

The easiest way 'apparently', to upgrade it is to simply nick all the bits off a golf or bora 1.9 engine- if you want to keep the same engine number (for insurance reasons). Like you say, it is the exact same 1.9 block, with different bits bolted on and a different crank. A strong little engine, capable of at least 150hp.

Nice. 👍🏻 After you chnaged the injectors, wasn't smoke a problem? I did the same on one of my SDIs and there was no way I could get it through an MOT. It actually failed! Like you say, response and extra power was amazing, but to the detriment of anyone behind me... Had to chuck the originals back in again. @battlebus did the turbo mod on his 1.7, and the resukts were apparently impressive. Almost too much power and torque for such a small car (and gearbox).

Topran is an OEM supplier I believe. I've seen mk2 parts labelled topran and VW on the same plastic moulding. It's possible that they have an economy line, but truth be told, OEM parts are super super cheap when they supply them by the truck load to the likes of vdub. VAG generally only make the really big bits, engines, gearboxes etc and just do assembly work. Most of a Lupo isn't actually made by vdub. They just put it together. Actually, even gearboxes are outsourced nowadays. 🙄

Yeah. The lowest connector is the crank sensor. Next up is the injector no.3 timing feedback sensor, then you have that monster round connection behind. I've never removed the two glowplug wires from the round connector, but heard that you can press in the sprung barbs with a small screwdriver or pin from the plug side (not the wire side). You need to lift a tiny sprung locking tab out of the way, then rotate the car side loom plug anti clockwise. Then the engine side half can slide out from memory. I'm so fed up of replacing glow plugs all the time. They just don't last. No matter what brand. Beru, Bosch. Genuine vdub. They all pack up. In all my SDIs. All my glow plug looms are wrecked. I just crimp the plug ends a bit so they keep a nice tight fit on the plugs.

What parts did you need to buy? That steering column sleeve looks like a pain. And there's that spring. No idea why that's there. @Rich he didn't want to drill it out as he wanted to keep the same key set I believe. Did you manage to find the fault in the old lock switch?

Very tidy example Change your transmission fluid, filter and final drive oil if you don't know its history... EVERYONE forgets to change them and a new auto box is expensive. Welcome to club lupo!

Nice 👍🏻

More info please

Can u delete this and start a new thread? Confusing...

Lots of pics please. Never pulled a barrel from an SDI Lupo...

Yeah, relay or wire to relay. Or ign switch.

I wouldn't pull the head off. At least not yet. I don't think it's an internal problem. Temp sensor ok? V Common fault.

What readings are you getting from the temp sensor? Sounds like multiple faults TBH. Assuming all the sensors are ok, the ECU is simply delivering the amount of fuel it should. So could be something else, like fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, that sort of thing. Easy to prove though- does the car pull ok on the road at high revs in high gear? That'll eliminate a fuel supply problem. If it's only lean at idle, then something else... VCDS will give you all the measurements. Do it cold then hot. Welcome to club lupo