mk2

Sell em for £60

Yeah you use that cutting wire that glass fitters use. One person inside, the other outside and slice away like it's cheese...

Love the retro panel lights

Ah, hang on... i think i know what you're on about regarding that green sleeve. It's actually a pressed steel cup that is designed to hold the seal against the inner flange/shaft that comes out of the diff. It looks like a last minute design fix by the box designer. You need to pull that shaft out after removing the little bolt in the centre of the CV flange. Then you lever it out give it a wipe and then pop in a new one. You do have to remove the inner cv joint to get to it though. i watched my gearbox rebuilder do this a few weeks back on one of my SDI boxes. NOt straight forward.

Payment isn't the issue... lt's how we're going to get (them) it to me. Or someone else on here?

In good nick, with that milage, worth about £1300... how much did you pay? Oh, don't forget to service the gearbox.

Yeah, but so many people just do not know how to drive.... becomes very apparent when karting.

I have to agree with Rich actually, coming to think about it. Rebuild the S. Scrap the Blue. nice colour too on the S spec model. Both cars broken in bits are worth probably about 2k. A good nick SDI with £30 tax is worth about £1500.... @Sausage you have too many!? I'm up to seven now.... regarding welding it; looks like it's gone right where the hub carrier attaches to the beam, which would need a bit more care to get right (or the wheels won't run parrallel!). I was hoping that it went where the long weld is which is a lot easier to fix. Hmm. know anyone with a car transporter heading London bound from you? I'll give you what you're asking and i'll have both please.

I bought a 60k sdi four years ago. Mint. Now at 100k. Still mint. The other i bought two years ago with 90k, now at 98k, and lots of problems..... but getting better.

Can you take a pic underneath of the bit of the rear beam that has broken... i could bring my welder with me and fix it good enough on the spot to drive it home...

You're obviously planning something.... go on, tell us

Insurance companies generally only cost you extra if you change stuff that affects performance or safety... Stuff like upholstery, paint, body kits, ICE and stickers, no problem. Wheels, exhaust, suspension, brakes and engine... yeah.

I'll second that... you could have spent another 1k and maybe bought a much faster bigger car. But the running costs would have been way too high, which is why you opted for a little Arosa? Lots of people want a Lupo or an Arosa to be a Lamborghini. If you spend perhaps 50k+ you could get close, but still not the real deal (obviously). A huge amount of expert engineering goes into designing a top car, which is why they're expensive. Modding a car will generally only devalue a car, although the bonus is that you'll learn lots. Believe it or not, people who work for big car companies are petrolheads just like us lot. Really. The design team for a new model is often only perhaps just five or six people. Often in their 60's. In their free time they still play with and drive fast cars....

I always do wonder why people buy cars then sell them again so soon... less than three years is usually finance. Less than five years is babies. Up to 15 years, the car has truly been loved, but usually is beginning to cause headaches. Over 15, true enthusiast.

Same reply like before... common problem. Caused by condensation corroding electrical contacts. You know when your windscreen fogs up, the moisture isn't just sticking to the glass, but everything inside the car that's cold. Moisture and contacts are not a good combo... you'll be surprised at how wet it can get between the roof liner and the inside of the metal roof. Especially when there's a hard frost.

That wouldn't stop it starting? Or would it...? Does the 1.4 have a cam ref sensor (to get the four stroking sequencing right)?

I like that colour. I used to have yank tank in nitro yellow green. Now you know what i used to drive.... (not neon!)

Having just been in the presence of greatness to rebuild my box, i can confidently say that the only thing that needs doing is the needle roller bearing needs to be changed (5th). Low oil is fine briefly, but if it whines, it means that the plastic needle roller bearing cage has melted. You can get to it via the metal side cover without stripping the entire box. About £4 oh, and while in there, swap the circlip shim for a new thicker one to take up any slack from wear.

Probably a fuelling problem. Vapour lock due to clogged fuel filter. Maybe? Could be a dodgy coil pack. Sniff the exhaust when cranking and hot... you shoukd smell raw fuel if ignition (coil pack) problem. If no fuel smell, then fuel problem. oh, don't forget to change both fluids in your auto box next service. Everyone fogets!

Means your engine is in excellent condition! And all sensors are bang on the money. good to hear.

With super rare mudflaps welcome to the mad forum which is club lupo!

If the O2 (or lambda) sensor is upstream of a cat and there's no downstream one, you can mod any car without a problem. Until mot time. The emissions test will pick up on excess hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide. But some engine ecus are so good that you'll pass without a cat. But not many..... a few mercs, the odd porsche or bentley. Definitely no ferraris or fiats. They're awful without cats!

I reckon 4 is ground.

Pulling the carbon canister or solenoid wouldn't stop the car starting (or running....).

Sounds like either a fuel shutoff valve or an air fuel separator...? Could be that when moving things about, a pipe cracked allowing air in. Who knows!