mk2

I had started typing in a list of everything that has had to be fixed on my mk4 over the last 7 years. Then gave up as i got bored. Windows/locks/leaks were things I hadn't thought of, but also included. Probably about 50 different faults. I don't know why i keep the damn thing.

Which bit was fun? Cornering? Nah. Nimble? Nah. Flooring it? Nah. Watching the leccy systems go nuts? Yup, that was the fun bit...

I don't like any variant of the mk4. Even the R32 sucks. Like driving a battleship fitted with a nuclear reactor. Still dull.

The Lupo was designed by a small split team from the Polo group to turn a miniature concept car into production (allegedly). The Fox is a small economy car, originally designed for the S American market, with lots of Brazilian tax incentives to get people working. so my take on it, is, yes, they're both vdubs, but one was (apparently) built for the love of proving a concept is possible by an enthusiastic team, whereas the other was built to keep people off the streets. What would you pick? The difference in build quality is obvious, but the tech on Lupo is a lot older. The fox is a newer generation vdub just like @Rich suggests. Lupo is more like a Mk2 golf.

I'm sure I heard an expression just like that between ObiWan and Luke.... LOL! 👏🏻

It is worth about 2.5k if in very good condition. Still a very desirable car.... hold your ground if in no rush.

Joe wrote one somewhere...

Gtis will outlive every Lupo model. they are so desirable, so collectable that people who cherish them will quite simply keep them (in good condition) forever. They'll be discovered in barns and in locked bunkers in fifty years. There'll be one discovered at the back of a hay shed, with chickens roosting in the footwells... would love to have one, but I have just way too many cars now.

I try to help. I don't care if people laugh at me... i know what i know and nothing more

And then you get little 3 pots that have had their day at 60k....

TPS same price as main dealer... ok, so they are genuine parts. If in no rush, get your bits from Germany. Generally higher quality, tested, approved, certified and as good as OEM. Just cheaper.

You have an "E" specification car. You need an "S" spec car for the extras... There's info on here somewhere listing all the differences between models. My fav are the tilt and slide seats you get on the S models.

You need a workshop manual for some of the details you're looking for, so dig out the Polo one... There is no manual for Lupo. Lots of online drawings and parts lists will help... Plug running temps are more important than gap. Generally a gap from 0.6 to 2mm works perfectly. If doing mainly short trips when the engine wont ever get that hot, go for a plug with a higher temp rating.

I've seen an ABF on 500k+ on original everything. Only water pump was changed. Taxi...!

Speaker power =V^2 / R (remember from GCE physics?). So if you have 12V power and 8 ohm speakers, the max power you could possibly get is 12x12 / 8 = 18W. Then there's the discussion of RMS vs peak power, but I'm not going there. So it always makes me laugh when I read numbers like 1200W.... Yes, you can have power inverters to up the voltage and you can have bridged output power amps, but the real power will rarely be above 100W per speaker. The thing that really matters is the speaker efficiency. How many dB of output sound per Watt. 102dB/W is a good speaker. Most are about 85 (not brilliant). A 5W 102dB speaker will be much louder than a 100W 85dB speaker. To answer to your question, you need some 10W 100dB/w plus speakers for the front. They'll rattle your doors. Go for low resonant frequency, ideally below 40Hz and bung some piezo tweeters in under the windscreen. It'll sound amazing. Oh, and welcome to club lupo!

Don't understand what you mean....? Do you mean you want the old kilometres in the new cluster? If yes, then I don't know how to do it...

There is a design problem with the steering geometry of our lupos. If you draw a line between the back wheels and put a dot dead centre, then use that dot to run along the circumference of a circle (like when going round a roundabout), each front wheel should be perfectly square to the radius (same as the back wheels). So in effect, the front wheels should be running perfectly in line with the circle. The inner wheel running around a smaller circle than the outer wheel (also the reason you need a differential). When on full lock, the inner wheel turns in way too far, which is why you get scrubbing on the inside edge. The only reason I can think is because the wheelbase is so short. If the wheels were a lot bigger, larger steering levers could be used on the hubs which would fix it, but then the car would look very odd. 22" wheels on a lupo...!

Door cards still available?

Detailed symptoms?

You'll need to take it to any small indy garage (or anyone on here with a computer). First question you need to ask them is "does your workshop have a vdub diagnostics interface?" When they ask you "whats the problem?", you reply, "that's what your computer will hopefully tell us!"

That sounds like something else... not immob. Need more info.

Don't drive it for another second. It might be salvagable.... better to stop in your driveway than have to organise a tow truck when out and about to get you home again. Cheaper too. It's going to be off the road for at least a week anyway. Start now! From what i've heard, the needle bearing race inside gear 5 melts when lube is low (made of plastic). They cost about £2... complete 085 gearbox rebuild kit on ebay for about £100.

We're just around the corner... I know some of the senior bods who might be interested in speaking with you, but as you know, they're a self important lot, (and IMO) probably think they're better than everyone else! Yeah, you know what I mean. BP is ex gov after all... I wonder if that V12 cut away engine is still in reception? Haven't been there for a couple of years.

Tried a backup key?

What are your thoughts on the 4 ball oil test? We used to work with the guys at Castrol BP research centre down the road from us here in reading. Their take on it was the best method was stop start engine running- lots and lots of engines lined up being cycled, all identical, on same base oils but different additives. Then strip down and microscopically examine....