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Everything posted by mk2

  1. Yeah you're right. But, christ, by the time the coolent (water!) has frozen (and expanded inside the block/head), I'd say that a fair amount of damage has already been done by then. Core plugs get pushed out, headgaskets separate, seals blown out, radiators split, heaters split, thermostat damaged, plastic fittings cracked and of course the impellor goes. The trouble that I've found even with really well maintained cars using the right G11/G12/13 whatever (flushed & changed every couple of years), is that the plastic bit begins to separate from the shaft of the pump. I've seen quite a few like that. And then there's that odd spring loaded seal. Why oh why did they opt for that when the good'ol way of doing it was simply with a bit of rubber. Seal goes, bearing starts to move, impellor contacts casting, cam belt gets pushed off-line, cam belt jumps or fails. Game over. I do understand that a beautifully made plastic impellor will outperform the rough cast aluminium ones that everyone else now uses, but for longevity, I think it was a poor decision by the 'cooling team' in VW engineering. Don't even mention the plastic hose connectors and thermostat flanges that warp, twist and leak after just a few years with those stupid zinc flashed metal inserts that chemically react with the ali head. Hasn't anyone heard of electrolytic corrosion?!?!? I guess VW make cars to make money. Cast ali is way more expensive than plastic. Anyone remember about 15 years ago VW were pumping that rubberised goop through all the coolent passages to coat the internal engine surfaces to prevent leaks.... And then when it started to crumble a few years later, all the galleries began to block and then hot spots and then major broken engine.......... the shame of it. All I can do is shake my head. Fortunately back to normal again now! Sorry for the rant!
  2. Not good. Should have been done years ago.
  3. You won't believe this... how stupid am I... I drained the oil, and then thought where the hell is the fill plug. Couldn't find it anywhere from looking below the car. So thought- it must be like an 01M (last unit I worked on a few weeks back). You fill through the speedo sensor hole up to the line on the plastic gear shaft. So I pulled out the sensor and sensor flange ready to go. Dropped something on the ground, looked up and spotted the filler plug. It's on the front side of the box! D'oh! All back in again for nothing. Do I feed stupid? Very. I also inserted a small high power rare earth magnet in the hole in the middle of the drain plug. I can't believe that there's no magnet in the gearbox to collect all the metal filings (or is there?). Rubber thing ordered- will arrive at local stealer in the morning, so I should be able to have everything back together again by Sunday PM (weather permitting).
  4. Thanks for that Lupogtiboy. I'll get on to VW and order it today. I wish I had access to your systems
  5. You've also got one of them?!?! Just can't figure out why it's there.... Makes an annoying ticking sound too.
  6. I think i found it... On my car (if its the same), it's red with a yellow trace. It comes from the battery fuse block- well it plugs into the end of the fuse block. No idea what its for though.... Looks like it is connected to the plus battery terminal.
  7. There is a software function that is in some older VWs, which may be in the Lupo. not sure... If you put your key in the door, open it, and hold it in the open position, the windows will wind down. Do the opposite- hold in lock door, they all close. It might be that the lock mech is sticking in the lock/unlock position, causing the switch contact to close. Might just need a good squirt of oil.
  8. I have fond memories of the 020.... A great gearbox! Heavy though. I learned lots when I was a baby doing them. And isn't it wierd that the bellhousing pattern is still the same today for modern 4 cyl engines....?!?! Useful for conversions though!
  9. I've been reading up on gear oils... Apparently, the incredibly tiny contact area between two teeth can generate localised hot spots where the instantaneous temperatures can exceed 1000c. With that in mind, there are additives in gear oils which somehow turn into a liquid metallic substance which actually behaves like a lube. It takes those high temps to metallise the additives. Apparently, the oil simply vapourises over 600c potentially exposing metal to metal. It's the additives that take over for the localised hot spot lubrication. All clever stuff this gear oil. And depending if you use angle bevel, hypoid bevel or hyperboloid bevel gear oils, the metalising additives are quite different.... So there is the viscosity (like 80/90 or 70/80), there are the additives (GL-4 or GL-5) and there are the base lubricants which can be a mineral or synthetic oil. I still think that the thicker the lube, the better properties it'll have to fight friction. Just like your mate says Skezza- use a synthetic 80w90. I think he's right. The new oil I have for my box is the same viscosity (80w90) and it's GL5 or something- super, extra, extreme heavy duty. As used in tractor diffs. I have no idea what the shifting will be like when it's cold- that thick oil needs to get squeezed out of the way before the synchromesh can engage, to select a cog. I'll phone the local VW dealer in the morning for a price and ETA on that seal. I've found someone in Holland who has stock for about 5 euros. But then I'd need to wait and pay airfright. I want to see how well the EGR changes work this weekend if poss. i wonder if there is a complete gear stick linkage overhaul kit available.......
  10. You are so right! From about 1990 onwards. The older stuff is good.
  11. I don't believe that for one second. Every single Lupo gearbox dies... At least you made me smile!
  12. I know! Please don't remind me.... Arrggghhhh! Actually, the box shifts really well. No whine, no crunching, no stiffness. I s'pose it's only done 60k, so not that much stress, and it's a gutless SDI, so it should last. Yesterday I spoke to a friend who specialises in gearboxes.... He said "Got a new Lupo huh? You'll be needing some new bearings soon...". My response "I know, I know." Big sigh. "I'll wait till it get's noisy andthen pull it out for you to have a play with..." I think every Lupo box fails within 120k. He suggested I put some extra thick AP-5 (I think?) box oil in. I know there has been lots of discussion about fluids and corrosion of yellow metals, but that's all nonsense unless moisture gets in the oil. Can't beat thick sticky tractor diff oil!
  13. Thought that while I had the car on blocks, I'd check all the other stuff, and might as well replace the gear selector rod seal. Our Lupo gearboxes have a well known leak in this position, and changing the seal is easy. You need to look after them gearboxes- they are known to be delicate touchy creatures..... Drained the fluid and measured how much came out- A bit over 2L which isn't too bad over 12 years. 1L down. They do like about 3L from what I've read. So time to get the gunge out along with all the metal filings. the oil came out looking mostly quite clear- a bit runnier than I'd like but with a definite yellow brassy metallic sheen to it. I hope thats not phosphor bronze particles suspended in the oil. So I popped off the rod end and then noticed that the ball joint seal had split. Uh oh. Need a new seal. See pic. Personally I'd recommend that everyone checks this little thing. It's so minor but by having a sloppy selector means you could do damage to the synchro cones every time you change gear. Not to mention the selector fork ends. It's a neat little system used- with that tiny little rubber ball in the middle of the ball joint. Fortunately nothing else worn, just the seal had gone. Anyone know how much they are from stealers (item 67)? I might also change item 54 (x2) if they are not too expensive.
  14. How can you do that when the ECU and fuelling/timing map is completely different? That is the biggest problem. The 1.4TDI engine program and wiring are quite a bit different to the 1.9PDI. There are a lot of similarities (you're right), but if you got the engine started (if you could), the fuelling, timing and all the controls would be completely out. AND 3cyl compared to 4cyl... Even with an injector emulator box it'd be nigh on impossible come to think of it. As soon as you swap to the right PDI ECU, you'd need the loom from the original PDI donor car, and you'll need to switch everything off in software or the ECU would lock you out. I've done it on a mk4 and that was very difficult, especially using the right dash. We even had to swap the dash over in the end, since the engine signals were different from the original SDI we started with. It's a major project.
  15. Yeah, TIPtronic is a 100% automatic gearbox. The only thing they've done is changed the way they shift- which is down to a different program in the gearbox controller. It is possible to replicate tiptronic and paddleshifting on an 096 or 01M box. I've done it. I have a couple of 096s knocking around for a new project (one's off a corrado VR6 and the other from a 4 cyl 2L). I'm going to combine the geartrain from the 6 with the casting from the 4 pot to run a PDI with paddleshift. No idea when the project will start, but I have all the bits ready to go.... The only difference between the auto box program and the TIPtronic is the shift modulation control. For a hard shift, you want the clutches to engage suddenly (like dumping the clutch). Soft is the opposite. It's all controlled by a PWM signal that varies the current in a control solenoid inside the valve block. This is turn varies the 'shift pressure'. If there is high shift pressure, the little pistons move really quickly (or 'pop') clamping the clutches together quickly, resulting in a hard shift. The old way of doing it was with a 'modulator' which was controlled by vacuum on a petrol engine. High vacuum means slight throttle, which in turn means the driver is not gunning it, so the shift needs to be gentle. It's all common sense stuff when you think about it. DSG and Auto can result in equal powertrain loss, depending on how they are configured. The biggest loss in an Auto is with the running pump, but that can be tweaked to be efficient once in lockup. A lock up torque convertor transmits all the power straight through. In a DSG, the loss is from all the bearings and shafts slushing around with the oil. There are a lot more shafts and gears moving, resulting in more friction. A small manual box is still the most efficient when driven correctly (The Smart car- with computer controlled gear changes on a manual!). Nice pic of a Tiptronic:
  16. Yeah, as soon as you go south the price jumps. And that is just to talk to you! Mad world.
  17. theres the price of the key + price to match it to the car... (so not just the key)
  18. If that was an original RHD 3L, that is not too bright.... They are worth a lot now. I wanted one before I bought the SDI, but then realised that the only choice now is a LHD import. No thanks. People who risk a cam belt either have money to burn or.... I won't insult anyone today!
  19. I'd like a main dealer original OEM key, but they all quote different prices (starting at £110 to £265!). Does anyone know a main dealer that is more reasonable? Basic key with the transponder built in and working... I'd like two actually.
  20. Please elaborate... we want to know more!
  21. looks like an audio amp feed, but in that position- it does look like an OEM feed. Could it be a washer jet heater circuit feed? How many contacts are there in the OEM plug (socket)? Can you trace where the other end of the cable ducting leads to?
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