Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

RvB's Achievements


Newbie (1/14)

  • Dedicated Rare
  • Week One Done Rare
  • One Month Later Rare
  • One Year In Rare

Recent Badges



  1. Hel Performance cover Lupos and Arosas. https://auto.helperformance.com/car/braided-lines/brake-lines/volkswagen/lupo
  2. I jacked up the car the other day and heard a loud ping as the rear came up. Driver side rear spring has snapped! Car isn't being used at the moment so didn't think much of it until I have come to find some springs and hit an unexpected problem. Car in question is an Arosa 1.4 16v (100HP) Sport, all the standard replacement springs from factors seem to exclude the 100hp or say they're for non sports suspension equipped cars. So this car has a different spring by the looks and judging from part numbers different to the Lupo sport too perhaps. Anyone know for sure what the differences are? I guess a lot a people have put on lowered springs negating the issue but was hoping to just replace the rear springs and keep it stock/oem.
  3. Those numbers look fine, your fronts are exactly the same as our Arosa Sport on it's last test and your backs are better. Bare in mind that your total braking efficiency is 73%. It's only a calculation based on the braking force generated and weight of the vehicle. The MOT limit is 50% for these cars so you're well above that.
  4. In the passenger side rear qtr there's a clump of wires/pipes following path of the wheel arch. In there is the washer pipe and there is a joiner up near the top, highly like the joiner has blown apart hence the puddle of water in the passenger side. Find the joiner and put it back together and all should be good. Although your washer jet is also probably blocked and seized to the tube that runs through the motor which is why the join blew apart in the first place!
  5. Yep, get it above 3K and it sings, pulls well and revs sweetly up to the red line. Pedal at rest = 14.5% moves through the range until the stop = 85% and back again to 14.5% at rest.
  6. Maybe I should be in blocks 050 to 056 instead of the 060 onwards for the throttle position?
  7. Reckon it's the right label file. Engine control Module has part number 036 906 034 BA, matches label file 036-906-034-APE.lbl which is for AUB engines if I open that file up. Definitely no foot on the pedal, I was in the passenger seat! And yes manual, not auto.
  8. Right, so car is hot, just been driven 25 miles. Fuel Trims look perfect! Throttle Position blocks Interestingly the eml was on when I setup vcds, so went into fault codes and got this. 1 Fault Found: 17582 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1: Injection Timing Deviation (Balance Fault) P1174 - 35-00 - - --------------------------------------------------------------------------- I didn't clear the code and went and did the above tests, then went back into fault codes to clear it and had it gone and been replaced with the running rich one. 1 Fault Found: 16556 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1: System Too Rich P0172 - 35-00 - - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
  9. The coolant temp sensor you mean? Looks like it was replaced last year by previous owner, temp gauge and vcds shows 90 when up to temp. I'm thinking that too, but where is the thing. I've been through the vacuum lines and can't see anything. What about the evap thing, when does that kick in? Anywhere in the egr system that would allow a vac leak when it kicks in? Is that a non return valve on the dangly pipe coming from the egr valve?
  10. Looks like I'm still chasing this. 😒 Engine light has come on again after about 100 miles, only this time I've got a different code (progress I guess!). 1 Fault Found: 16556 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1: System Too Rich P0172 - 35-00 - - --------------------------------------------------------------------------- I haven't looked at fuel trims yet, as engine is cold so will take it for a drive later to see what it's doing. But is there something I'm missing on the vacuum/air side to check for leaks? A system that kicks in later when hot and driving, egr or breather system or something like that? as the trims looked pretty normal initially.
  11. Right, went though all the pipes and joints I could find squirting some carb cleaner around any joints listening and watching vcds. Can't find any thing leaking! So I bit the bullet and got a cheap upstream o2 sensor to try. The trims look much more sensible now with the new sensor. Exhaust and cat temps are higher now too, although manifold pressure is still around 300mbar. So we'll see what happens and if the light stays out!
  12. Thanks for looking. Yeah, that's what I thought. What would a healthy manifold pressure at idle be? I'll go through all the vacuum pipes at the weekend. if an o2 sensor is giving a false reading surely this would be telling the ecu the wrong info too though?
  13. Not a 100% on what these VCDS tests are telling me (if anything!), other than the cat test failed. Measuring block tests. The -20% Lambda adaption would indicate running rich would it not? The sensor tests And finally the cat test which seems conclusive! Unless one of the sensors isn't reading right?
  14. I had similar trying to get vcds to link up, tried different interfaces and software etc, nothing worked. Then found this: http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/aftermarket-radio.html The aftermarket stereo, or more specifically the aftermarket wiring harness had put 12v onto the K-Line and was stopping the interface connecting up. Disconnected the stereo wiring harness and it all connected up fine.
  15. I take it that's Block 031 you're talking about there? I haven't looked at these yet, will have a go later along with the ageing test that Sausage mentioned.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.