mk2

Wow, they're really small. It'd be a cool look- your loop would look like it's on rollerskate wheels.

Bob couldn't find his, so if you're breaking a car please let me know. I still have an empty slot in my tailgate. Take extreme care when undoing those 3 screws, as the threads sometimes get a bit rusty, causing the screws to stick. Then you naturally try harder to remove them and 'crack', the plastic pillars break. Use a squirt of plusgas or WD40 first.

I've had a golf that i was convinced the front wheel bearings were going, and it was the cvs. Wierd thing was that they didn't click when turning, although the central spiders had loads a play in them when the steering was pointing straight ahead. Changed to new cvs and silent running again. Odd huh?

EGR causing air passage blockage, but computer still supplying same amount of fuel (so running really rich)??? see my inlet plenum thread with pics of the problem... Now totally cured and awesome!

I'll try the same setup. I noticed today when driving through a deepish puddle for the first time since getting the car, that it really pulled the car sideways. Very unexpected since i'm used to driving golfs which are very stable. Could be the cheap tyres or steering alignment though.

I'll second that... The trouble is that many people tick the new keeper box on the log book when they don't need to. So when passing it between family or friends, the number of previous keepers keeps going up. When you buy it, leave it blank and then number of previous reorded keepers stays the same.

rear central brake light?

R U sure it's the wheel bearings? A noisy but not gone cv joint can make bearing type sounds at speed.

I've experienced other models have a stiff clutch lever pivot bush- where the lever goes through the bell housing. I think water gets in there and corrodes the joint and then it gets really stiff. Does that happen on a lupo?

For a regular Lupo without spoiler. Anyone? PM me. Thanks

Excellent idea. Thanks for that. Quick fit will probably have a book with the numbers.... Cheers

Why are there so many numpties out there that do things like this? I had so many similar things on mine when I got it. it took me weeks to get the car back to factory standard. People, do you realise that every time you mod your car you devalue it! At least keep the original parts for the person you sell it to... On my car, every light bulb that had been changed was messed up, or the fitting or catch broken. even the interior light.

PM me if you have one that is not cracked at the screw mounts! Cheers all

I think the tracking is out on my SDI. does anyone know what the camber and tracking angles should be? Toe in/out and postive or negative caster? I need to get a manual from somewhere! Thanks so much people.

So why on earth would someone want to add a roll cage? They add a fair amount of weight. They get in the way. They increase the noise levels. You get condensation on cold days. I can't think of a single positive reason if it's not being used 'properly'.

I think if I used a Lupo on track days, I would certainly fit a roll cage. I've seen a few loops in breakers yards where they've been in accidents and the results are a tad worrying. The two side panels which make up most of the car's stucture are mainly held together by the firewall, the floor and the rear slam panel. The roof panel appears to be glued to the two side panels. So invariably, the roof generally peels away in a big accident where the car rolls over. There might be spot welds, but if there are any they fail during the crashing process. The car would be much stronger if there were positive engaging corner 'pins' on the tailgate, to lock with the main body. I'd also remove spare wheels, as they turn into projectiles...

New number plate and fix/replace the front panel fixing to start with

Agreed. The conversion to 4WD is more interesting though (the back bit and fuel tank). And then there's the 4WD and a 3.6FSI... but that lump is just too damned heavy. Me wonders if it might be worth putting together a conversion 'kit'. Get a 1.9 lump, plug in the kit and away you go. Just select the 1.9 flavor.

No way... Lupo mirror is much smaller

Update: Went for a decent drive yesterday, first since doing the work over the last 6 weeks. I can honestly report that the difference in performance, economy, acceleration and overtaking ability is amazing compared to what it was like before (see pics above). I'm not sure if it just the removal/modification of the EGR system (cat is still in place) or perhaps the limit adjustment of the throttle pedal. There is no smoke at hard throttle 3-4k revs and the engine just sings at motorway 'fast' cruising (I'm not going admit anything regarding exceeding legal speed limits on here...). Economy returned just under 80MPG, with 2 cold starts, with mostly motorway driving. I brimmed the tank to the filler and then refilled out of a measuring jug to get the amount of fuel used, so I'd say fairly accurate. The idle is smooth and quiet, with no nasty knocking sounds like before (with EGR active). My only complaint is that I didn't want to use the cabin heater until I saw the temp guage hit normal, which took ages (and there's a new thermostat fitted). I would recommend the corrective EGR action to everyone. My work comprised of the following: 1. Clean all the carbon deposits for the whole of the inlet system, right to the back of the inlet valves. 2. Machine up some aluminium plugs and block off the individual EGR ducts (4 of them). 3. With a die grinder, gas flow the EGR ports to allow a smooth airflow from the trumpet openings right to the cylinder head (I didn't modify the head at all- just cleaned it). 4. Smooth off any channels in the air induction tubes where they meet the manifold with high temp polyurethane goop, and smooth off with a wet finger. 5. Re-assemble entire cleaned air system to OEM (with EGR throttle valve still in place). 6. Reused old air filter as it looked new. 7. Block off oil mist inlet to plenum with a bicycle handlebar plug (perfect fit!) 8. Connect a 1m length of 20mm corrugated electrical flexi-conduit to the push-in elbow that sticks out of the valve cover, using a piece of glue lined black heatshrink tube. 9. Guide the 1m long flexi 'breather' tube out under the car so any vapours emerge unobtrusively below. 10. Lock anything loose down with cable ties. Job done. Total time about 5 hours, but with many many tea breaks.

Yes, there has been an annoying clicking rattling noise while I've been driving around. It was definitely linked to movement of the car since it stopped when the car stopped. My first thoughts were the heat shield around the exhaust- thin flimsy ali sheet, almost certainly. Nope. Then i thought perhaps the rear bumper flapping in the wind. Nope. Perhaps a loose pipe or fuel tube. Nope. It was driving me insane. Quiet smooth driving with the randon occasional clip rattle click sound from behind me. I could hear it even louder when I opened the window. I couldn't take it any more. So back under the car again yesterday after 130 mile round trip. It was..... the dust shields around both rear shocks. They look like they're meant to be bonded to the bump stops, but have dropped off and were simply resting (and rattling) on top of the shocks. The chrome plungers exposed in their full glory ready to get a good battering from dust, grit and whatever gets flung up. Both sides the same. Small hole with a length of stainless MIG wire to tie them back up to the bump stop. Done! Silent running once more. I can sleep and drive again.

What do you rekon is the hardest job on a Lupo Rich? Having just messed about with the central locking wiring >behind< the fuse box, me thinks that changing the SDI throttle pot is probably up there as one of the worst possible. I'd guess almost everything has to come out. Haven't tried it, but God it looks difficult. Then perhaps there's the heater matrix? Syncro no2 inside the gearbox? Rooflining?

Not having had any problems with that bolt, i would guess that it's not threaded..... I would try and warm it a bit and see if you could knock it out. Also may be worth using wd40 or something on it. Let us know how you get on.

Yup Also, the difference in price is huge... You can get a set of mk2 bearings for £5. A complete assembled hub for the lupo is about £30. What's so hard about knocking out the old bearings? Ok, so you do need to adjust them just right. No big deal. Thanks Rich

I'm getting mixed messages from various sources about the compatibility of bearings for rear axles, with drum brakes (for my SDI). I know the GTi has ball bearing based hubs, but I get the impression that the bearings on drum based hubs are the exact same as mk2s, jettas, corrados, derby etc etc... roller bearings. I don't want to start work only to find I've got the wrong type. Anyone got a definite answer? Even on ETKA it's not obvious as there are so many options. thanks guys