mk2

Yeah, any lupo tailgate will fit like @Rich says. You'll just need the two holes for the spoiler, which you could drill. You'll need to prearrange hold space with the airline before you turn up at the airport, with your "oversize" luggage. It'd be easier to crate it up if you don't want to risk any damage. Got any pics? Would love to see a Lupo with an American background! oh and welcome to club lupo :)

Never worked on one, but from your description, sounds like a supply from controls board/switch issue. Might be the switch? Swap the motor for a headlamp bulb and then see if you can get it to light up...

Like @Sausage says, could be tyres? Not much else left... swap fronts and backs over?

Yeah that's a standard vdub fan controller... they are fixable if they go wrong, but you need to be careful when you pull them to bits as the pins are molded into the wiring inside. Expensive to replace too. Should be connected to fan else fan will never ever run. The main switching relay that supplies power to the fan is inside this thing. Very curious to know what happened... just had a thought- follow the wiring from the fan back. Should end up at this unit.

Sounds like someone before you has been messing up things... good luck! so at least you have the controller, but not the loom that connects it to the fan and ecu. Time for some detective work me thinks. Let us know how you get on and how you fixed it.

Connect it...

Hooray

The fan is powered with a PWM signal I think, although many vdubs just have a fan resistor inside the controller or fan. It means that the fan speed can varied from slow to fast. If you have AC, then the controller is linked to the ECU and AC to also adjust the engine RPM to compensate for extra compressor loading at idle. It isn't a basic switch... Only the much older vdubs have switches.

Sounds a bit like project miatabusa... now that was an awesome project. Probably the best engine ever made mated to a small car. Lots of engineering for you geeks if you haven't heard about it.

If you fire them on the in stroke (lean), then fire again about 20 degrees after TDC (once ignited), you get a double kick. It was the original concept behind FSI. Lots more torque... The hardest thing to manage is the common rail high pressure fuel pump. Yeah with a supercharger you can get about 550. Trouble is at high revs you run out of injector time.

Did you keep the 60V injectors on your R36 conversion?

Could you use a slightly larger font please...

Give the diff flanges (inner cv joints, gearbox side) a good shake. There should be no movement at all. Or it could be wheel bearings, but it'd be obvious which one when turning.

Yay! Should've waited 30 seconds. A momentus event. I always remember exactly where i was when it happened to each of my cars.

Totally different. Easier to swap car.

What reading did you get? Over 2.5 or over 0.9? Might just be the EGR valve...

Drill a socket sized hole in the bumper underneath, to allow easy access to one of the filter box bolts. You'll see which when you do it. You can bend it out of the way, but as the plastic is getting older, they have a tendancy to snap. If you don't like the idea of vandalising your car, use a hot air blower (hair dryer) to warm the plastic first. Don't overtighten when reassembling

Yeah, i've done it... i have a spare pair of 'lenses' which I refurbed ages ago just sitting in a box. The trick to separating them is heat. But not enough to damage anything. Bung the whole headlamp unit in an oven at 60-80c then remove and separate the lens from the chassis. The butyl rubber sealant melts like cheese with long strings. Make sure everything is spotlessly clean to start with or the black sticky stuff acts like a magnet. Once apart absolutely don't let anything touch the mirroring. You can clean them, but you first need to get the dust off by first spraying with a detergent like washing liquid (for clothes), diluted. Leave for a few minutes, rinse with more detergent, then 'very' lightly wipe the surface with clean fingers, keeping lots of detergent around. Then rinse well. Then rinse again thoroughly with deionised water and dry with a hair dryer. Back in the oven to soften the butyl sealant then simply press together again until the clips snap in place. Sorted.

Welcome to club lupo! yeah, we used to have decent buyers guide, but it accidentally got deleted... quite a few people on here with sports'. All lupos have similar issues, but not sure on the specifics just for a sport edition.

£200-300? Rough interior, dodgy bodywork and older tax bracket doesn't help to be fair.

Ah.... I think I get it now. So am i right in understanding that what I think has happened is: as the reduced travel, lowered suspension bottoms out occasionally (like when you hit a speed bump or do a hard landing after jumping 21 double decker buses), the top of the shock or the completely compressed coil spring hammers the strut bearing. The bearing then pushes (hammers) the lower edge of the rubber bush. The rubber bush and sleeve compresses completely, then smacking hard against the suspension tower. Tower stronger than suspension component wins. So I guess there is no bump stop in place? Must be hard suspension...

Any idea what caused it? Did the strut retaining nut that sits in the top dish come off or something? I can't think what would cause it to fail like that.

OMG! You must have noticed this deteriorating well before it finally popped. Never seen one this bad before... wow. Replace both sides.

£30 for about an hour's work is very reasonable! Nice one.

I think the windscreen pillar bit will be ok, but probably needs a plate attaching to the pillar near the top. I also think it'll need another web across the middle of the 'X'. Above and below.