mk2

Have a look at this web site... http://www.oemepc.com/vw/main_group/markt/RDW/modell/LU/year/2005/drive_standart/441/hauptgruppen/1234567890/lang/e your english is great. Way better than my Korean.

The error messages lead me to suspect an air leak. The fuel and ignition systems are both fine else you'd get other codes. Sensors are most likely fine too. It is possible that O2 is out but unlikely as they are very tough, and unusual to fail in normal use. The ECU has analysed the exhaust gas and has tried to get the mixture just right by adjusting the throttle and fuel injection pulses and has basically reached end stop. As in, either it can't close the throttle any more (to reduce air) or is adding more fuel to the point where the idle revs start creeping up (above about 900). So to keep the idle stable together with a decent exhaust gas mixture (meaning the fuel / air mix), it has had to reduce fuel, resulting in a lean mix. This can be caused by excessive exhaust "air" from the EGR valve being stuck (unlikely, but possible), or most likely air being sucked in from some other tiny gap. It doesn't take much which is why it can be a pain to fix. Put it this way, a gap the size of the edge of a little finger nail is enough. Sometimes you can hear the air whistling in... there is a way to use raw propane gas from a flexi hose in your engine bay to see if the idle revs change when you get near the leak- they go up. Also possible are - low fuel pressure (filter, pump, pressure regulating valve), but unlikely. TPS, or throttle valve misbehaving, giving wrong readings to ECU. my guess is that the car drives completely normally otherwise....?

It'd be so cool to know what each 3 letter code meant... i haven't seen that in Etka.

👍🏻

Yeah, and 3w will also work. But change all at the same time...

Welcome to CL!

Yeah, i need a spare bung if anyone has one??? Just stops stuff falling into the clutch space.

We even get breads like Baguettes, Pumpernickel and other such exotic things to accompany the cheeses. Oak cakes? Potato farls? Pah! Such northern things.

Unusual. Which end?

With a knife.

Cheese wire?

No. Why didn't I think of that?! I love the info and tips you can get on this site! Cheers Joe 👍🏻 Will try it next time a bulb blows.

I have very successfully broken more than 2 of these damn things. The thin layer of sealing foam sticks, then nothing will budge. Crack.

Now if someone did a custom car jobbie, hugely lowered then the car was completely cut in half down the middle (front to back), then a 300mm wide strip welded in, modded rear axle, front subframe, driveshafts, rack, grille, bumpers, tailgate and glass- that'd be interesting. Probably look like a squished pork pie or a jam doughnut.

Doesn't everyone use 01234 (oh won too tree for)...???

Happy to see that we're all purists on here...

Same for me too... no reply.

It'll take at least two hours for the lump to cool before you could start work on it...

Yeah, before the rain comes down... never been in a full auto lupo. Must be different.

Just thiught... could be cheapo or nasty mismatched tyres up front?

Wheel bearings ok? Top strut bearings ok? Steering rack ok? Steering wheel loose?

Agreed. What he said.

Yes you can. But how much money do you have? The real question should be "how do i increase the instantaneous volumetric throughput of my 1L engine?". You could get potentially about 220hp with some reliability, 350hp with low reliability. Your limit is set by the flame front velocity, so you'd need to up compression to about 13:1. Then change cam. Change fuel. Add nitrous. Add turbine and supercharger. Change pistons. Change to non water based coolant. Gearbox. Lots More too.

Nice. Welcome to CL. standard or any interesting alterations?

50mm. Get a whole new system from germany for £115 delivered. But you will need a new cat. Check your previous mot emissions data. If they tested to 0.7 (same as mine), you'll need the cat. If tested to 2.5 you'll be ok without it...