mk2 Posted November 4, 2014 Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 Any suggestions what is the best way to proceed? Obviously all the door clips will need replacing- Blue tack doesn't cut the mustard. And, er, I think those weather seals will also need doing, but should I go OEM from the stealers or just use some plastic sheet? Clearly some 'mechanic' had no idea what those little sheets of foam are for... Grrr. Also the clips that hold the window cables in place have also popped... I bet they're expensive.I thought it was a bit breezy in the car while driving it home those 180 miles. Anything else I could do while everything is in pieces? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danoid Posted November 4, 2014 Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 (edited) You cannot buy the foam from VW anymore allegedly.I done thishttp://danstyan.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/vw-lupo-insulation-film.pdf Edited November 17, 2014 by danoid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted November 4, 2014 Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 I was just about to say danoid has done a tutorial. Dan, you should get those tutorials on a page on here so everyone can find them MK2 are those seals actually leaking? They don't look that bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2 Posted November 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 MK2 are those seals actually leaking? They don't look that bad.Leaking?!? Er, I think Niagara falls would summarise it quite well. The foam pieces are completely missing in some places. This morning i was about to do some mechanical work to it, just to get it going properly, and i noticed loads of condensation on all the windows. Instantly came to the conclusion that there must be a leak. Used to them with my mk2... Carpet is soaked, but stangely no smell. It was kept garaged up till I bought it. All out.I just need that wierd clip that clamps the window cables to the inside door panel plus a shed load of panel clips... Ebay I think for them. Lots of silicone lube and back together again.Yeah thanks for the suggestion to seal it. I was thinking along the same lines. Can't use silicone glue, as it peels off. It'll have to be gutter sealant or something similar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2 Posted November 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 Door leak fix quest is continuing...I need two of these clips: One for each side. Not clever design. They're made of what looks like Nylon. Nylon doesn't like organic oily compounds on it- and guess what the inside of the door has been sprayed with anti rust wax. Not good combo. Makes for a brittle clip. Snap! (but it wasn't me gov. Honest!)this is the seal that is also needed (4 actually): Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lupogtiboy Posted November 5, 2014 Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 Those plastic clips, the N/S one is on backorder and priced at £10.24 inc vat, but the O/S one is obsolete from VW, so I'd worry that the n/s one will probably go the same if you tried to order it.The door foam is still available from VW, they are showing it all in stock at the main warehouseN/S Upper - 6X3 868 507 G - £8.74 inc vatO/S Upper - 6X3 868 508 G - £8.74 inc vatN/S Lower - 6X3 868 511 K - £16.49 inc vatO/S Lower - 6X3 868 512 K - £16.49 inc vatIt says that it will need sticking on with a suitable glue, VW useD 469 101 A3 - £24.27 inc vat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted November 5, 2014 Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 Danoids tutorial looks instantly more attractive lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattarosa Posted November 5, 2014 Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 (edited) It'll have to be gutter sealant or something similar.Hey skezza MK2Whilst you are there I would rub the window runners over with some WD40 on a rag. Edited November 5, 2014 by mattarosa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2 Posted November 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 Thanks for the good advice and stock look ups for me... This forum is great! I'll use silicone oil as it doesn't affect any waxes or plastics for the track/glass channel.Yes, I've decided to use the alternative method. I have a piece of old tablecloth (sealed vinyl) and some gutter glue. Also I've conjoured this rather good way of holding the clips in place. A section of 15mm Hep2o pipe I had hanging about.... secure and flexible.........Wil post some pics when done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattarosa Posted November 5, 2014 Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 Top notch repair! I recently repaired a regulator with a nail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted November 5, 2014 Report Share Posted November 5, 2014 Matt it can't be as good as the DIY bump stops with roof sealant?To be fair, I've got an even better bump stop repair that I've thought about on paper. Yet to test it but could potentially reduce the wear on the shocks and even help lowered loops from grinding their bottom away. No pun intended... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattarosa Posted November 6, 2014 Report Share Posted November 6, 2014 Matt it can't be as good as the DIY bump stops with roof sealant? To be fair, I've got an even better bump stop repair that I've thought about on paper. Yet to test it but could potentially reduce the wear on the shocks and even help lowered loops from grinding their bottom away. No pun intended... Twerking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2 Posted November 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2014 Now fixed:I used (is it?) Matt's idea of radiator backing material as the seal. But it took lots of attempts to find a glue that would stick it to my satisfaction. The only thing that I founds works is low modulous neutral cure silicone, specifically for use on PVC windows. It sticks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted November 16, 2014 Report Share Posted November 16, 2014 Nice job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonineaston Posted December 11, 2014 Report Share Posted December 11, 2014 Yes, nice job :-)A quick, door-parts related Q. for you folks that's had them all part! Do you recognise this symptom? My driver's side window is acting up... 2 problems in particular:Problem #1 If the window is lowered fully, then there's a problem raising it. The glass rises unevenly so that by the time the glass rises about a quarter of its travel, the rear tilts back and jams, preventing the glass from rising any further.Problem #2 Sometimes the switch doesn't follow its proper logic - if I lower the glass partially i.e. with a shallow depression of the button, instead of a full, 'click' press, the glass lowers partially - as it should. :-) But the next time I use the button to raise or lower the glass a bit - i.e. partially, the button thinks I want to lower it fully and then continues to try to raise it, ignoring my partial press - does this ring any bells! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lupogtiboy Posted December 11, 2014 Report Share Posted December 11, 2014 I found that I had a small leak on both sides after changing my front speakers using the adaptors. It was coming in from under the speaker, so I've resealed the speaker adaptor with some silicon, and so far so good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lupogtiboy Posted December 11, 2014 Report Share Posted December 11, 2014 Yes, nice job :-)A quick, door-parts related Q. for you folks that's had them all part! Do you recognise this symptom? My driver's side window is acting up... 2 problems in particular:Problem #1 If the window is lowered fully, then there's a problem raising it. The glass rises unevenly so that by the time the glass rises about a quarter of its travel, the rear tilts back and jams, preventing the glass from rising any further.Problem #2 Sometimes the switch doesn't follow its proper logic - if I lower the glass partially i.e. with a shallow depression of the button, instead of a full, 'click' press, the glass lowers partially - as it should. :-) But the next time I use the button to raise or lower the glass a bit - i.e. partially, the button thinks I want to lower it fully and then continues to try to raise it, ignoring my partial press - does this ring any bells!Sounds like your glass is loose in the regulator, though I've no idea how to adjust it. I occasionally get the 'bounce-back' when putting my drivers window up, but if I hold the switch it goes up fine. Another day, up and down no problem at all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2 Posted December 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2014 the cure to our eleccy windows is loads of silicone spray oil. Spray everything that makes contact with the glass. Rubber/seals/fluff/trim/furry dice.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted December 12, 2014 Report Share Posted December 12, 2014 The cure to electric windows is to install manual ones.Lupo electric ones are crap, as are polo, as are golf, in fact all VW electric windows are crap. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2 Posted December 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2014 all VW electric windows are crap.Rich is right as usual... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted December 12, 2014 Report Share Posted December 12, 2014 I have manual in my golfs,In the TDI the drivers doesn't go down all the way, was fine and then stopped, the passenger dropped and now makes a wind noise. I have spares but I really can't be assed atm, just means I can't go above 60 without being annoyed. (good for economy) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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