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I fixed my dead leccy windows!

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I'm well chuffed! I wanted to share this with you lot who have the same problem and haven't tried anything yet. Worth making into a Sticky if not already (can't see it in there). I don't know who posted up this step-by-step guide, but thanks very much whoever you are! I can't find my original help post with their names. I had windows that appeared totally dead, although the switches clicked when pressed, the window fuses were all fine etc. All it needed was taking to bits and a good old greasing. Couldn't believe it really...well worth trying before looking at replacement motors and switches, as it only costs a tenner for the sprays needed. Took me a while, being a fiddly job, but pretty straightforward.

This is the guide I used :

To do the job you will need to :

1/ remove door top trim by prising of the interior handle cover using a flat bladed screwdriver inserted at the small gap at the bottom of the handle cover. Then remove the two crosshead screws. Carefully pull the trim panel away from the door. Some of the plastic clips may break. Release the door lock cable and unplug the wiring for the warning light (on driver’s side). Tear off the grey interior waterproof cover. These are no longer available from VW so can be replaced with a sheet of plastic stuck on with silicone. Unplug the wiring for the electric window switch and door lock.

2/ remove lower door panel by undoing the 4 screws at the bottom of the panel and carefully pull away by pulling out at the sides and then lifting up to clear the top fixings. Remove grey interior cover as above

3/ undo the 10mm bolts holding the motor in place (2-3). Undo the 10 mm bolts at the bottom and top of the regulator arms (2 for each arm). Note one of these has a spacer that may fall into the bottom of the door.

4/ Take a 10mm spanner and reach up inside the door and loosen the bolts on the clamps holding the bottom of the glass. This is very awkward. I managed to pull the window and regulator arms down a cm or two which allowed slightly easier access. On the left bolt I could even get a mini ratchet and socket on it, which helped.

5/ Place a piece of cloth on the top of the door and then putting strong duck tape from one side of the glass, over the top of the door (and cloth) and stick onto the other side of the glass. Use at least 2 pieces of tape. This is to stop the glass falling and breaking once motor has been removed.

6/ The regulator arm can be gently pulled down and towards each other. With some gentle manipulation this will allow for the clamps to come away from the glass, leaving the glass in place - held by the duck tape

7/ Everything is now free except for the wiring to the actual motor. It is possible to remove this connector without removing the door speaker but just not worth the effort. Use an electric drill on the 4 rivets holding the speaker, unplug and move out of the way. The multi plug connector is used for cars that have the one touch up and down option. A two pin connector is used for those cars that do not have this feature. The connector is held in place by a plastic clip that needs to be pressed to release.

8/ Now everything should be released and the motor, complete with regulator, can be eased out of the space at the bottom of the door.

9/ Place the complete unit onto a clean surface. The motor has a metal fixing bracket on one side. Place with the other side up and remove the 5 crosshead screws from the plastic cover. Gently ease off the plastic cover but do not fully remove. Inside you will see the metal cable wound around a plastic spindle. Spray plenty of grease into this area. I used a spray lithium grease from Halfords. Refit cover and tighten

10 / spray all of the wheels around the regulator and spray into the area where the cables enter the spindle area mentioned above. Also spray the metal frame of the regulator where the glass clamps slide up and down.

11/ Carefully plug the wiring loom into the motor and plug the wiring back into the window switch. Switch on the ignition and try the switch to ensure that the motor now moves the regulator. Switch off the ignition and remove the wiring connector.

12/ refit the regulator and motor. Refit the bolts remembering the spacer. Reconnect the switch. Switch on ignition again and move the regulator to half open position.

13/ Now carefully remove the duck tape from the glass and lower the glass gently into the clamps. With the window in the half open position you can then easily retighten the clamps.

14/ Use the button to lower the window completely. Now spray silicone lubricant (also available from Halfords) on the 3 surfaces of the window opening to ensure that the glass does not stick against the door felts when in the closed position.

15/ Refit your speaker with a rivet gun or other suitable fixings. Refit door cards and job is done

Edited by Lupo-dreams
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Piece of pee, just a bit fiddly and time consuming. I've had practice with much harder stuff to do on cars than that! I must admit though, I felt obliged to go and do some female tasks like ironing afterwards....I don't want a pair of balls growing down there! ;-)

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Photos always help, especially if someone's not confident or experienced with dismantling things. But for me the text was enough to get the job done.

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  • 9 years later...


Given this thread was active in 2012 I’d be amazed if I get any help but here goes:

Before I start the above easy to follow guide, I’m sure my issue is electrical or not;


passenger side works fine as it should.

drivers side button for passenger will only go up, not down.

drivers side button for drivers window makes a noise for up, lights up when lights are on & if by some miracle you are able to fiddle the wires just right you can get the window to edge down a cm or two, but jams. 

How can I troubleshoot the electrics here?


Many thanks to anyone who can assist.



Edited by 1.4SportVince
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On 8/1/2021 at 1:37 PM, 1.4SportVince said:

Cheers. That’s a potential cheap solution.


will buy now.


many thanks, Vince.

vince - swapped my switches over when this happend to some oem ones from another car.. sorted it for a bit then went dead.

ordered some new ones off ebay and success been working ever since.


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On 8/5/2021 at 1:15 PM, Sarahs Lupo said:

vince - swapped my switches over when this happend to some oem ones from another car.. sorted it for a bit then went dead.

ordered some new ones off ebay and success been working ever since.


I ordered some ‘MyCar’ ones from Germany Via ebay when I posted my thanks for the suggestion here & they arrived a few days ago.

just fitted & working as they should.

Now to follow the steps above to fix the dragging window but as I already have a new regulator I think I’ll just replace!


many thanks to all, Vince.

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