Jowey Posted June 9, 2009 Report Share Posted June 9, 2009 Hi allI'm going to attempt to change my gearbox I have a re-con box lined up ready.Just looking for a few hints and tips.the front end is stripped right back so access is easy.Tools i will need ?is it worth having a mate to help ? Things to remember to do ?anything else worth replacing while the box,starter motor etc. is off ?Remove all sensorsRemove starter motordo the drive shafts need removing/disconnecting ?Undo all the bolts on the housingWiggle Gearbox offAny help appreciated.I could probably figure it out but I guess i just need a rough idea of what lies ahead of me just to give me a bit ofconfidence in doing it.Thanks, Jowey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unheard Posted June 10, 2009 Report Share Posted June 10, 2009 I don't have any tips but if you do attempt it could you take some pics of the process. I may well need them at some point Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallika_Fan Posted June 10, 2009 Report Share Posted June 10, 2009 (edited) When me and a mate did mine we didn't take the front end apart, probably should have to aid easier working, take the shafts off, one of my bolts rounded off at the diff end, so had to try and remove the box with the o/s shaft still attached, nightmare!If you don't have a mate handy then a nice big piece of wood will hold the gearbox, engine up whilst you're fiddling, I have some photos in my ride thread of when i did mine, when i get home late i'll post them here, at work i don't have access to photobucket so can't post them yet.Might be worth replacing the clutch whilst it's out. Tools, the normal assortment, though a 6 sided hex for a ratchet (i think) would be beneficial for the driveshaft bolts. Clutch setting tool would also help, i didn't have one and was a little fiddly.I still have some little nuts and bolts left over from when i did mine, so make a note of where everything came from, and like unheard said, document it well with photos if you can, that'll also help with locations of bolts etc.Good luck.Pete**Edit, found the photos so here you go. They're not the best though. Edited June 10, 2009 by Tallika_Fan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartagram Posted June 10, 2009 Report Share Posted June 10, 2009 Worth having a mate to help if you've not done it before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiniRic Posted August 11, 2009 Report Share Posted August 11, 2009 Evening All. Just been searching and found this thread. Attempted to change the clutch in the lupo this weekend. Got it all stripped back ok, fitting the new clutch and aligned it, but I'm struggling to get the box back on. It's a real effort to get the back of the box to clear the subframe, and when it does, it doesn't seem to pull up straight in to the bay.Does anyone have any tips? It's driving me mad! I've left the front end on as it's a lot of effort to strip it all back, but I'm starting to wonder if that's the best way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiniRic Posted September 2, 2009 Report Share Posted September 2, 2009 Surely someone must have some tips about re-fitting a box... correct angles to clear the subframe etc.? So far it just seems to be a huge amount of trial and error. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve TDI Posted September 2, 2009 Report Share Posted September 2, 2009 Ha Ha Ha. I remember this bit. To say it's a pain in the butt is an understatement!Your just going to have to persist with it. Keep on moving it up and down and it will just click in. It's the shaft trying to locate into the flywheel. So just keep at it and it will come together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lev Posted August 27, 2011 Report Share Posted August 27, 2011 It's a piece of piss it really is I've done that many now my mate likes to wheel spin haha Gearbox after gearbox on Lupo, Polos and Seat Arosa there all weak gearbox's... But taking it out is easy putting it back in is easy just take a while with the 2 bolts that hold the linkage onto the back of the gearbox and that long bolt that is like 10mm turn each time other than that make sure everything is lined up and it's in Enjoy it really is easy! P.S What are you doing with your old gearbox? Cheers, Lev. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blitzerman Posted August 27, 2011 Report Share Posted August 27, 2011 3 year old thread.... lol read the dates dudeeeee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bikerz Posted August 29, 2011 Report Share Posted August 29, 2011 I did a Petrol sport change. Never removed any of front end.Justs wheels, arch liners, shafts and out she came. Pretty easy. Held up with rope and wood acorss top of car and a jack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bowers155 Posted September 3, 2011 Report Share Posted September 3, 2011 ive done mine but ive done many before not an easy job if you havent got exact tools like the splined peices to take the drive shafts off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpcpeter Posted June 1, 2022 Report Share Posted June 1, 2022 On 8/27/2011 at 3:35 PM, Lev said: It's a piece of piss it really is I've done that many now my mate likes to wheel spin haha Gearbox after gearbox on Lupo, Polos and Seat Arosa there all weak gearbox's... But taking it out is easy putting it back in is easy just take a while with the 2 bolts that hold the linkage onto the back of the gearbox and that long bolt that is like 10mm turn each time other than that make sure everything is lined up and it's in Enjoy it really is easy! P.S What are you doing with your old gearbox? Cheers, Lev. Was doing a search to see if there were any techniques to getting gearboxes back in to the Lupo GTi and I ran into this comment and have to say... how utterly useless that was. If you make sure everything is "lined up" the gearbox won't actually go in. Just saying how piss easy something is without describing the process makes me wonder if this chap has ever replaced a 'box before! Anyway, the reason for me posting here is that I've just installed my upgraded 6-speed into my GTi by myself and I did indeed run into the same issue of either the diff casing running into the subframe or the right flange snagging on the clutch/flywheel assembly. I did manage this in the end, and I would say the most helpful thing I did was to use a ratchet strap wound around the middle of the gearbox and loop it over an engine support bar. The next helpful thing is to pull the oil sump as far forward as you can and place a block of wood against that and a part of the subframe to hold it in place. The next thing to ensure is that the gearbox end of the engine is lowered slightly to help the clutch assembly point downwards a little. The final helpful thing is remove the damn left driveshaft. I know Elsawin apparently implies you can leave it in situ, but that thing just gets in the way! Once all of that lot is in place, you jack up the gearbox paying attention to ensuring the diff casing is pointing a little diagonal to the little space that's free where the subframe gets in the way. The reason why this bit is so difficult is because you can't keep the same orientation of the gearbox as you lift it up. The 'box needs to be turned a little so the diff casing is pointing a little to the ground more, then tighten up the ratchet strap when things start to get close. You can then back off the jack slightly and manipulate the gearbox manually using the strap as a swing. You will have to turn the 'box back and forth in a few goes while trying to "clock" the 'box so it gets in alignment with the clutch assembly. You'll find at some point you'll have to grab the 'box - one hand on the diff casing and one hand around the starter motor aperture and lift, turn and wiggle it - you'll feel the diff come free from the subframe. You may also have to go under the car and push the right flange away from the engine towards the rear of the car first. Once the diff is clear of the subframe though that's the hardest bit done. I used a second trolley jack with a block of wood to control the angle of the box so it matched the angle the engine was at so it aligned perfectly with the dowels. Make sure when you're mating the 'box to the engine you pay attention to the right driveshaft - this has to locate into the flange before the 'box is mated otherwise you have to disconnect the hub from the track control arm. Good luck to anyone else doing this by themselves, but hey, it's a free workout! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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