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cpcpeter

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Everything posted by cpcpeter

  1. The coolant must somehow act as an electrolyte and interacts with the metals in the engine. If the engine begins to corrode I’m guessing the electrolyte will begin to contain more ions which will increase the potential difference, so the lower the number the better! I don’t know exactly how it works but it’s a tip often referred to in Car Mechanics magazine.
  2. While antifreeze properties of the coolant may last a while (and can be easily checked with a refractometer) the anti-corrosion properties do reduce over time. Easy way of checking this is with a warm but not hot engine, carefully open up the expansion tank, dip in the positive of a multimeter set to volts and the other to a good engine ground. Readings over 600mV mean the anticorrosion properties are starting to deteriorate and worth renewing. Up to around 400mV is acceptable.
  3. @lupo1.0se No I didn't, not at all! I'll PM you, thanks!!
  4. I've been meaning to get round to this for a while... don't know if many know I'm a writer for Car Mechanics magazine, but an opportunity came about to write about my Lupo. Enjoy the attachment! Hard copies of Car Mechanics are available here: https://shop.kelsey.co.uk/single-issue/car-mechanics-magazine/532 473517106_OCLupoGTITroubleMay-23.pdf
  5. Hi chap, its from JC clubsport. Was going to get one for myself but it’s cosmetic only I think. No point for my track Lupo.
  6. No-one is going to reply to you here chap. Best to make a separate thread on your questions.
  7. Didn’t want to steal too much of your thread but that was my GTi remapped on a Dyno Dynamics and got a hair under 160hp with 135 lb/ft from 2200 all the way to 6450. Was hoping a little more so not sure if my cylinder head guy was that good (was a shot in the dark to be fair) or I’m running a Dbilas intake. It was designed in mind for the 1.4 but will obvs fit the 1.6. I had it port matched both ends just in case. I expect the head could have maybe done better. Tuner thought the Catcams did a good job of keeping the torque so flat all the way through. Drives very well though have to say AND it’s kept a 200-cell cat. And I agree Clayton, I reckon 50bhp more would be just the sweet spot! But I’m stopping there power wise now otherwise the engine bay will be just a money pit!
  8. Bit over 3 bar then for you, but I've got brand new cylinder head, cam carrier and cams so it's probably pushing up the pressure over worn ones (mines over 60psi at maximum). To be fair I don't think the little Lupo's chassis will be too comfortable with much more power anyway. I'd keep it with the same engine and use the money on something else if I were you. Or wait until at least your current engine expires which forces you to do a transplant for something tastier.
  9. Nice! Glad to hear the engine is behaving itself. Always nerve racking for the first few hundred miles. I've just replaced the cylinder head on mine (port/polish/match with catcams) and it ran 0.2 bar oil pressure on idle!! Thankfully had my oil pressure gauge beep at me and turned out the head was designed for (or at least accommodated for) non VVT so had to plug up an oil gallery to get the pressure back up. Maxes out at around 4.5 bar with hot oil now - is that what you're getting Clayton? I'd say a good N/A conversion would be something Honda, like you say K20 can get to 240hp. That would be a blast. Or you could try doing a motorcycle engine swap and that way you can get sequential style box. Just finished install of the Coolerworx shifter - wow, what a difference, it was worth every penny! 4th to 5th can sometimes be a little tricky, even adjusted properly, but overall a massive transformation. Just the engine remap to do next... Tried to book Wayne at Chipwizards but he's rammed so I've got a tuner lined up here in Scotland... fingers crossed I get anywhere near as good as your figures..!
  10. How does your Lupo pass MOT with the side lamps removed?
  11. That’s my worst nightmare come true, taking an engine out twice argh! I was initially thinking perhaps oil starvation if you’re doing long cornering but clearly not the case! Surely you must be thinking about getting forged rods now? Engine may have knocked slightly and took rod 4 to its limit perhaps? Hope the ‘loop makes a fast recovery.
  12. By way of update, that’s my gearbox man finished upgrading the 6-speed box. Turned out it was in need of an input shaft bearing at the minimum but all seals and bearings bar the 5/6 end casing bearings were changed. Very little filings on the magnet and otherwise healthy. The ‘box had the Quaife transplanted from my 5 speed too with new ARP bolts. They were orientated upwards in the end with the casing machined to make room. The other way would not have allowed the bolts’ splined segment to properly dig into the softer metal on the other side so it’s in a stronger position this way. Also, 6th gear synchro did not have to be broken at any point. Finally, a note on the 5/6 bearings in the end casing. My gearbox man has seen many issues like this with the VW end gears prematurely wearing with bearings and it’s usually due to lack of oil rather than the casing being disturbed. There is a sealed baffle separating the compartment where 5/6 gears, end bearing and end case reside. The only way oil can get in is by angling the box as it’s being “factory” filled. Failure to do this will result in premature wear and most likely be the cause of those end bearings failing. I’ve actually had the baffle modified and a lower oilway has been machined so that whenever I fill up the oil at the diff casing, the level will be perfect across the whole box. This should hopefully reduce the chance of those bearings failing.
  13. Was doing a search to see if there were any techniques to getting gearboxes back in to the Lupo GTi and I ran into this comment and have to say... how utterly useless that was. If you make sure everything is "lined up" the gearbox won't actually go in. Just saying how piss easy something is without describing the process makes me wonder if this chap has ever replaced a 'box before! Anyway, the reason for me posting here is that I've just installed my upgraded 6-speed into my GTi by myself and I did indeed run into the same issue of either the diff casing running into the subframe or the right flange snagging on the clutch/flywheel assembly. I did manage this in the end, and I would say the most helpful thing I did was to use a ratchet strap wound around the middle of the gearbox and loop it over an engine support bar. The next helpful thing is to pull the oil sump as far forward as you can and place a block of wood against that and a part of the subframe to hold it in place. The next thing to ensure is that the gearbox end of the engine is lowered slightly to help the clutch assembly point downwards a little. The final helpful thing is remove the damn left driveshaft. I know Elsawin apparently implies you can leave it in situ, but that thing just gets in the way! Once all of that lot is in place, you jack up the gearbox paying attention to ensuring the diff casing is pointing a little diagonal to the little space that's free where the subframe gets in the way. The reason why this bit is so difficult is because you can't keep the same orientation of the gearbox as you lift it up. The 'box needs to be turned a little so the diff casing is pointing a little to the ground more, then tighten up the ratchet strap when things start to get close. You can then back off the jack slightly and manipulate the gearbox manually using the strap as a swing. You will have to turn the 'box back and forth in a few goes while trying to "clock" the 'box so it gets in alignment with the clutch assembly. You'll find at some point you'll have to grab the 'box - one hand on the diff casing and one hand around the starter motor aperture and lift, turn and wiggle it - you'll feel the diff come free from the subframe. You may also have to go under the car and push the right flange away from the engine towards the rear of the car first. Once the diff is clear of the subframe though that's the hardest bit done. I used a second trolley jack with a block of wood to control the angle of the box so it matched the angle the engine was at so it aligned perfectly with the dowels. Make sure when you're mating the 'box to the engine you pay attention to the right driveshaft - this has to locate into the flange before the 'box is mated otherwise you have to disconnect the hub from the track control arm. Good luck to anyone else doing this by themselves, but hey, it's a free workout!
  14. Damn Clayton shame to hear about the engine. That’s pretty good going if you’ve never had the bottom end reworked ever. How many miles has the engine covered now since it’s major power upgrade? Hope it’s not too serious and looking forward to the photos…!
  15. Way to go Clayton, great video. Very motivational. You’ve certainly helped me no end with all sorts over the years so thank you for that. When do we get to hear about your next mod?
  16. Aha, okay that makes sense. I was initially thinking based on how it would be improving heat dissipation from braking in general (especially in race conditions), but now I understand this isn’t it’s purpose. If anything it will hold in more heat slightly (so no noticeable improvement in track performance at all, which is what I assumed based on that setup), but the trade off will be in preserving the longevity of the caliper components.
  17. The concerning thing for me is VW are rapidly making GTi-specific parts obsolete. My parts guy was saying it's the norm now for parts to be kept in circulation for 7-10 year old vehicles, but they don't really care about the relics any more (and fair enough to them, the demand will be non-existent!). I had priced up a brand new red cam carrier only 2/3 years ago for £450, but now all out of stock in UK and Germany as they auctioned them all off. Same story for cylinder heads and very specific LH thread bolts for holding camshafts, and even certain cam-alignment tools (you can guess I'm doing a cat cams upgrade ;)). Funnily after keeping my eyes peeled on eBay for long enough, I found the red cam carrier floating about in Germany and paid £160 delivered - brand new, still in VW's packaging. Xenon headlights are another worry for me - that's why I have an emergency second pair which I managed to get again from waiting long enough from eBay for about £150 for the pair. Although Clayton Jones has done an LED conversion which takes some of the ballast complexity out of the equation, and I'll end up going down that way too I think! Still there's levelling motors to contend with as my current lamps are not too great in that area, either! And don't get me started on aluminium doors, wings and bonnet 😢
  18. Hmm yes, so why do you want heat not to transfer out of your pads faster using a better thermal conductor than Titanium? There’s a reason, as these teams won’t be doing it otherwise as you say but the lack of science over it makes me think it’s a bit… pointless 🤣
  19. Wonder why they chose Titanium. Its thermal conductivity is quite poor compared to Aluminium or Copper. Fair enough it’s tough and resistant to corrosion but it’s negligibly better than stainless steel.
  20. Looked at the site and 5 years is decent, especially for the cost of them. It says 360 degree adjustable - did you have to do any fiddling with that or did you set them with the LED sections pointing horizontally?
  21. Nice find, Clayton. This has always been a cause for concern for me, as my Xenons are starting to ever so slightly flicker (only with engine running). I’ve checked grounds, have a quality battery and changed alternator but still there. May be just a matter of time before the ballasts call it a day on me and this may be a viable alternative. As the pattern looks the same (from the photos anyway) let’s hope it passes the MoT but looks like it should. No-one will crack open the back to check whether the LEDs are E-rated, anyway. My only concern is the longevity of the LEDs. What is the warranty like, for example? I guess time will tell all!
  22. Thanks for the advice! My 5 speed has a Quaife, so going to swap!
  23. I told my gearbox man about 6th gear and he said it's possible to remove without hacking the synchro - just have to know what to do apparently! When he next calls I'll have to ask what parts can be upgraded on the original box. I don't intend to get this serviced (other than oil changes) for the next 10 years!
  24. Thanks for the tip mk2. You say stay clear of the cover - as in, don't even take it apart? Wouldn't the bearing in the cover not be a viable thing to renew if it's placed under a lot of lateral load? Would you know anything about upgrade parts to renew?
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