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Steve TDI

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About Steve TDI

  • Birthday 08/14/1983

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sunny Barnsley

Previous Fields

  • Currently Driving
    Arosa TDI, Vectra X20XEV, Legacy 2.0s, Merc C36 AMG
  1. Well, the pedal doesn't return back to the top. The first inch or two going down nothing happens. As soon as you lift the pedal when in gear, it moves straight away. Just lift it 1mm and it's trying to go.
  2. That was the first thing I changed. Then fitted a new master cylinder. Then refitted the original slave and it's still the same.
  3. So that video is no good. Just uploaded it to Youtube....
  4. Seat Arosa 2003 TDI. The other day it felt like my clutch was failing. The clutch pedal hardly did anything so had to drive around without using it. When I had to come to a stop I had to turn the engine off, put it in 1st, start it up and away I go. I have since fitting a brand new clutch master cylinder AND a new slave cylinder. Still same problem. The clutch itself is 6 months old. It might sound like a strange request, but can someone post a video of their clutch pedal going in and out. I'm after a shot of the spring up the back of the pedal. Something else is just not right and I can't work it out. The Master cylinder shaft comes all the way out, BUT, the pedal no longer touches the clutch switch. I'm fairly sure the cruise control has been working. There are bits of metal that could be bent to stop them meeting up or bend them so they do meet, but I didn't move them as they are really stiff to shift. IMG_7528.MOV
  5. Already got Bilstien before dampers. B-4 dampers. Not before
  6. There's nothing wrong with the springs, as in they aren't broken. They are Eibach's. It's just over the years, I might not be able to tell the difference as they might have been deteriorating slowly over the years and i'd fit some new ones and there'd be a big difference..... or.... I fit new ones and there is no difference to my old set so I should have just bought the RARB and not wasted my cash.
  7. Well.... Do springs get tired over time? They've done over 80k with me and I bought them 2nd hand. When I fitted the Bilstien before's, the springs didn't look that old or warn out but are they likely to get soft over time?
  8. I've got some cash left over from paying my insurance this year and wanting peoples thoughts on what they'd do? As the title says.... New springs or rear anti roll bar? Here's my other thread asking which springs, Eibach or H&R's? http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/100403-h-r-vs-eibach-springs/ RARB... http://www.kamracing.co.uk/manufacturers/whiteline/seat-arosa-whiteline-rear-anti-roll-bar-bwr19z.html
  9. Yeah, It's got them now. It can be a little bumpy on all the roads round here. Lucky to find a smooth one! So has no one used H&R springs?
  10. What have people used and what have you thought of them? I'm 31 now and can't take a harsh ride. My Arosa already has Bilstein B-4 dampers with Eibach springs, BUT, I bought the springs second hand and i've put atleast 60k on them. So I think it's time for some new ones. Let me know what you think. H&R Springs. Works out at £103 delivered. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/H-R-Federn-ABE-30mm-29529-2-Seat-Arosa-6H-6HS-Diesel-Tieferlegung-Sportfedern-/190779564771 Eibach Springs. Works out at £107 delivered. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EIBACH-ProKit-Federn-30mm-fur-VW-Lupo-SEAT-Arosa-E8562-140-E8111-140-/390958046456
  11. How do you get these rain stains out? Tried G3 with machine. Tried Clay Bar. Tried polish. Any more ideas? And, What's the best thing to get the masking tape glue off? It's been on a long time now.
  12. It's £345 for mine. It's from the down pipe back.
  13. Cheers Gatesy. It does look well with just the one. Thanks Rich. I'm glad I didn't ask for pics of your rears! lol
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