FraH2o Posted March 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2022 i removed all radiator front structur and i sealed all possible and removed all components that can suffer with cleaning At a first sight there's something to renew: Rail pipe for glow plug And all inner and outer bellows. Very very dirty and full of oil and grease leak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FraH2o Posted March 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2022 I finally found an engine and gearbox under this layer of grease and dust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigcraft Posted March 29, 2022 Report Share Posted March 29, 2022 Well that looks a lot cleaner. These things are a real labour of love at times. Your doing a good thorough job. Just out of interest, what are your headlights like now at night now that they are black coated? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FraH2o Posted March 30, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2022 8 hours ago, tigcraft said: Well that looks a lot cleaner. These things are a real labour of love at times. Your doing a good thorough job. Just out of interest, what are your headlights like now at night now that they are black coated? Thanks Tig, hope to made a self good job of restoring. This little lupo need a lot of love. My headlights i think good a make a honest low and high beam. Low High The hedlight was not regulated, but at first sight in my opinion and compared to halogen bulb are more powerful and deep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FraH2o Posted March 30, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2022 After speeking with my friends, I decided to carry out the engine. I think is more easy to do clutch, timing belt and some refresh to gasket and various oil and water seals. Aand also i think is more easy to notch the chassis So i scratch build a carrier, I take courage (is my first attempt with this operation) and i removed engine block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2 Posted March 30, 2022 Report Share Posted March 30, 2022 Nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigcraft Posted March 30, 2022 Report Share Posted March 30, 2022 (edited) Well you know what happens when the engine comes out…… the spray gun goes in….. Edited September 26, 2022 by tigcraft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FraH2o Posted April 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2022 On 3/30/2022 at 11:46 PM, tigcraft said: Well you know what happens when the engine comes out…… the spray gun goes it….. 😊 For sure a deep clean, then i must work on chassis notching. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FraH2o Posted April 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2022 I Separate gearbox from engine block and I open timing cover ... the "list of dead" continues: Suspected leak that has a possible dual origin: Crankshaft oil seal on timimg belt side Crankshaft flanged oil seal on flywheel side I think also a leak from oil seal behind output gearbox shaft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FraH2o Posted April 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2022 Before to start, i clean all with petrol sprayed with air FInally a fast rinse with degrease and sprayed water And also arrived the EGR delete kit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2 Posted April 4, 2022 Report Share Posted April 4, 2022 Awesome work!👍🏻 Have you thought about changing the chain tensioner and chain? They often break around 115k miles (200k km). While the engine is out, it makes it much easier. The EGR delete makes a big difference. Also add a breather tube extension from the top cover down to the ground, near the fuel cooler. Then the air into the engine is 100% clean. Cleaner burning and better efficiency too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FraH2o Posted April 5, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2022 (edited) 22 hours ago, mk2 said: Awesome work!👍🏻 Have you thought about changing the chain tensioner and chain? They often break around 115k miles (200k km). While the engine is out, it makes it much easier. The EGR delete makes a big difference. Also add a breather tube extension from the top cover down to the ground, near the fuel cooler. Then the air into the engine is 100% clean. Cleaner burning and better efficiency too Thanks mate for this advice also for timing and air flow system Yes I'll change all.....The belt tensioner is completed gone I suspect that this oil leak in the timing compartment is for seal of cranckshaft and also for the exploded tensioner H4 AH.......oh, wait. Do you mean chain and tensioner of oil pump? Edited April 5, 2022 by FraH2o Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FraH2o Posted April 11, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2022 I completed the pre cleaning before to work on engine Same petrol washing + air blow procedure also for the monobloc and then quick rinse with hp12 and water. I removed clutch and flywheel, and as predicted i found leak from the crankshaft oil seal on the flywheel side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FraH2o Posted April 11, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2022 In the meantime I am waiting for the Autodoc orders, i do somethings... I take 1Z TDI engine Mk3 golf center exhaust tube that have the same lupo diameter, a new clamp and i self made a straight downpipe "poverty editon" I made he cut to made a fast switch with kat if I'll need Also start to install the EGR delete kit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2 Posted April 12, 2022 Report Share Posted April 12, 2022 You may as well replace the front crank seal when you change the oil pump chain. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FraH2o Posted April 13, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2022 With flywhell off, i renewed the oll seal flange I reassembled flywheel with new bolts following the procedure on ElsaWin Once the flywheel side was finished, I started work on the timing side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FraH2o Posted April 13, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2022 Once all the timing was off, it was the turn of the crankshaft oil seal on the timing side. The elastic bolt is tightened with a torque of 120nm + 90 degree and it's very hard for my impact gun with a 25 lt air compressor I warm the bolt with Heat gun for 20 min. After two attempts the bolt finally come off. I do this for 2 reason: one already mentioned which is the oil seal and the second one is as correctly predicted and warned from @mk2 It's time to renew chain and tensioner of oil pump. All sprocket looks goods Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2 Posted April 13, 2022 Report Share Posted April 13, 2022 Wow. How many km has the car done? It is known that the plastic friction pads only last about 150,000 km. The chain the same. I'm looking at the shape of the teeth on the sprockets. They're also quite worn! I've read/heard stories about the chain snapping at 115,000 miles a few times. You can see why, because there isn't enough tension and the chain whips about. Deep grooves...😳 Take care when reassembling the front PTFE seal. There is NO flexibility, so you have to push it on straight, no twisting and no angle. When you have the new sprockets, chain and tensioner pads, put them next to each other and take a pic. It will be very interesting to see the difference... Really good work. Your car will be like new! Fantastic. 👍🏻 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FraH2o Posted April 13, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2022 1 hour ago, mk2 said: Wow. How many km has the car done? It is known that the plastic friction pads only last about 150,000 km. The chain the same. I'm looking at the shape of the teeth on the sprockets. They're also quite worn! I've read/heard stories about the chain snapping at 115,000 miles a few times. You can see why, because there isn't enough tension and the chain whips about. Deep grooves...😳 Take care when reassembling the front PTFE seal. There is NO flexibility, so you have to push it on straight, no twisting and no angle. When you have the new sprockets, chain and tensioner pads, put them next to each other and take a pic. It will be very interesting to see the difference... Really good work. Your car will be like new! Fantastic. 👍🏻 Tnanks Mk2. This little PD has 293.000 km...about 182.000 miles. The previous owner give me all documents of service in Vw and the chain ant tensioner it never renewed. Thanks for advice, at the moment i only purchased new chain and tensioner. Good advice for sprocket and i'll check worn/consuption as you suggest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FraH2o Posted April 13, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2022 In the meantime, what am I waiting for chain and chain tensioner from autodoc, last night I finished the small refresh of the gearbox I start Replacing left axle shaft flange oil seal I renewed also the oil seal assembly on the right side with the new collar i renew the oil seal behind the sleeve for the pressure plate bearing And finally filled with oil following quantities and specifications as predicted by Elsa 2lt of 75w90 GL5 Watching and reading around various forums and sites, i read that is usually filled with the 75/80 and with GL4 specification .... which I do not understand. I prefer to listen to Elsa already given the crystalline nature (understood of fragility) of this EXB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FraH2o Posted April 19, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2022 I clean the sump and the internal tank where there is the oil pump suction filter. Cleaning was simple and without finding any scabs or various grime. I Reassembled the new chain and tensioner and checked with Vw mechanic sprocket and bearing. After spreading the black sealant on the sump and crankshaft flange on the timing side I closed everything .... and while I was waiting for the new crankshaft bolt I start to check another job Stupidly, while I was pulling everything down, I didn't quote the cutting area for the chassis notch. To provide for this, I reassembled some stuff. I fitted gearbox, marked with its left support, stub axle, link, ammo, steering rod and finally drive shaft to check the possible grinding area Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2 Posted April 19, 2022 Report Share Posted April 19, 2022 Don't cut it yet. The engine sits at an angle and the half shafts are not naturally straight... You need to put the engine in (temporarily), and let the car rest on its own weight, otherwise you'll cut the slots in the wrong place. I think @Silver! has cut out slots, but that's with a different gearbox? 🤷🏻♀️ The left side shaft in particular is very wierd... Use 5mm steel sheet to reinforce both sides, with 1.0mm inside the slot. Do the sides first and have the inside sticking out beyond the sides for strength 👍🏻 @Rich, who else on here has "silly" lowered suspension? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted April 19, 2022 Report Share Posted April 19, 2022 TDI doesn't like lowering that silly as the sump hits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FraH2o Posted April 20, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2022 (edited) 15 hours ago, mk2 said: Don't cut it yet. The engine sits at an angle and the half shafts are not naturally straight... You need to put the engine in (temporarily), and let the car rest on its own weight, otherwise you'll cut the slots in the wrong place. I think @Silver! has cut out slots, but that's with a different gearbox? 🤷🏻♀️ The left side shaft in particular is very wierd... Use 5mm steel sheet to reinforce both sides, with 1.0mm inside the slot. Do the sides first and have the inside sticking out beyond the sides for strength 👍🏻 @Rich, who else on here has "silly" lowered suspension? Ok, thanks for add. The engine refurb is now completed. I'll temporarily fix altoghter with raised engine mount to check right notch position 12 hours ago, Rich said: TDI doesn't like lowering that silly as the sump hits. Yes, this a trouble. I'm working to raise the engine by 15 mm....i didn't like alu sump and alu sump didn.t like grindind. Also to be safer I'll use this sump saver, already used on my Golf mk3. Edited April 20, 2022 by FraH2o Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted April 20, 2022 Report Share Posted April 20, 2022 Aye. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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