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Ian Daly

Dead SDi

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Hi all (?)

Looking at posts on here I'm not anticipating too many replies 🙄 though I shouldn't complain I visit here less that Father Christmas!

But, just in case, the missus went out to her car ('90 SDi 1.7 Lupo) to head off to her office as normal, standard start procedure for her (although I was watching from a sixth floor balcony about 75m away) brake lights came on and I could hear the starter throw, but it didn't turn over, a couple more attempts with same result.  I made my way down to her and Coldplay (cos it was all yellow) , I too tried but this time nothing, no brake lights, not even any dash lights.  I have to say that turning the ignition felt slightly odd, so I'm suspecting that there's a problem with the ignition switch and it now blown a fuse?  I have time to mull this over before I can have a further looks as she's cleverly stuffed the keys in her handbag and taken them into work, yes I did take her in and drop her off, so any thoughts anyone...one..one?

Cheers

Ian.

 

Edited by Ian Daly
inability to spell!

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Did you try with a couple of jump cables attached. Clean the battery terminals as well.

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Hi Skezza, thanks for the reply, no, I've done nothing so far she needed to get in to open up the office and as I said she taken the damn keys with her.  I doubt it's the battery though, the dash lights didn't even glow dimly and the battery was new this time last year, all tight, I did get chance to check that.  Gut feeling says that there's a problem with the switch and it's subsequently blown a fuse.

Ian

 

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My first reaction to your headline was "no, I don't believe it. SDIs don't die...". Unkillable.

But now I've read the detail, yes, the key switch contact thing is a known fault on all Lupos. And the main power relay behind the fuse panel (also controlled by the key switch). So yeah, that'd be my first port of call.

let us know how you go.

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Hi Mk2, thanks for coming back to me, you are correct, of course it can be resuscitated 😁 it's a right pain searching for the bits, think I'll get the old bits out and use their numbers, will I run into difficulties with the key coding or is that resolved within a different unit?

Of course I'll let you all know how it goes 👍

Ian

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I failed miserably, falling at the first fence, I took off the steering column cowl, the parcel shelf beneath the wheel and unbolted the fuse box, I then looked at removing the ignition switch, no go, interference fittings and no obvious way of getting them off, I've now booked it in to have it done, I'll let you all know what was what. 

Ian

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23 hours ago, Ian Daly said:

I failed miserably, falling at the first fence, I took off the steering column cowl, the parcel shelf beneath the wheel and unbolted the fuse box, I then looked at removing the ignition switch, no go, interference fittings and no obvious way of getting them off, I've now booked it in to have it done, I'll let you all know what was what. 

Ian

Nice. Thanks. 

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OK, so my tame mechanic seems to be dragging his feet and hasn't pick Coldplay up, thought I'd have another look, I can do nothing with the ignition because of the non-interference fittings, of course I could have an attempt at drilling them out but I just know where that would end up.  The relays though, I can get to them and with a great deal of sweat (it's already 32 degrees here) I could change them, so which one?  I have four, looking at them right to left, 405, 100 and 109 with 103 on a different line above?

Ian

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109. You could simply leave everything out (if practical), and drive it. If it dies on you again, try tapping the relay which will prove it (if it is a dodgy contact). Chances are though, just flexing the cables to it will have moved the contacts inside the relay a fraction- that might completely cure the problem!

To remove the shear bolts, drill out with cobalt drill bits. Start small and work up. So like 3mm, then 5, then 8mm (if 5 or 6 doesn't work). Get a small bit set for a few quid.... always handy.

Yeah too hot to work in the sun on a car.

I just had a thought- never done it, but you might be able to access the ignition switch from the wire end? The shear bolts are simply to prevent access to the lock barrel.

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I figured out it was 109 but thanks for the support 👍 and excellent advice.

Tapped it, wiggled it, slapped it about a bit, nah, nothing, it just won't play ball, it's out and I'm just off to see if I can get a replacement now, have ordered one from Euro Car Parts but can't collect that until tomorrow, never mind if it is that and I can get another it's a spare, maybe the replacement won't last 20 years eh?  Of course if it is the switch, no end of replacement relays will help ☹️.  I'll have look to see itf it'll come out from the  wire end, well I will if it cools down a bit 🥵  If it does need drilling out it won't me Mr Ham-Fists here doing it!

Ian

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OK so it wasn't the 109, new one purchased and fitted, no change, BAH!

So I'm pretty sure it is the actual switch, saw a youtube vid (https://www.youtube/watch?v=1z6RJetRM28) showing how the switch can be removed from the back , as suggested by mk2 👍, so I'll be giving that a go now it's cooled.  Anyone know the part number or where I can find it or even how to describe it properly?

ALL advice massively appreciated!

Ian

 

 

 

 

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Never removed the switch from the rear, but it does look possible. I'd strip everything away first, including the steering wheel. Adds only an extra 20 mins work, but makes access so much easier. If you succeed, please post a pic from behind the mech in pieces! :)

Just had a thought- @Sarahs Lupo had a similar problem about a year ago, with it cutting out... what was the cause of it, as I can't remember?! (Or may have been someone else).

 

Edited by mk2

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OK so tried and tried all to no avail, have just found this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EuY84R8h1hc , it shows why the fixing for the switch is hidden by the steering column, so it aint coming out intil I spring the whole lock piece 😩

Cheers

 

Ian

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Had another idea...

if you have some pins/needles, push them through the insulation of the wires going to/from the keyswitch. Put clips and tape on and monitor the power/voltage on each wire. At least it will 100% prove that the keyswitch is at fault. You could set up some small light bulbs, one on each wire, so you can monitor each line. Any flickering or not lit, and you know what the problem is. No fault, then all the wires will be ok, without any cutting. 

If you wanted, you could bypass the keyswitch and add a sneaky power on switch in a spare switch slot. Just a temporary bypass until you get a chance to go down to a breakers yard and have a play on a donor car first- if you find a problem.

Edited by mk2

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On 8/14/2020 at 1:11 PM, mk2 said:

Never removed the switch from the rear, but it does look possible. I'd strip everything away first, including the steering wheel. Adds only an extra 20 mins work, but makes access so much easier. If you succeed, please post a pic from behind the mech in pieces! :)

Just had a thought- @Sarahs Lupo had a similar problem about a year ago, with it cutting out... what was the cause of it, as I can't remember?! (Or may have been someone else).

not sure.

i have had ECU trouble from the start and other issues, lately i had issues starting once a week, but new battery seems to have fixed it 

 

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Hi all

Update (ish)  Mk2, had I the time I was going to go down the route of a sneaky on/off switch, but I didn't think I would have the time, I ordered the new part from Autodoc, turns out they're in Germany, use an appalling delivery company , expensive and slow, so I did have the time, had I known!

Also as quoted by Sarahs Lupo, no it's not possible to remove it from behind, at least on mine, as the only fixing is only accessible once you've remover the barrel!

Unit arrived yesterday afternoon 1st Sept, ordered 24th Aug, now, where did I put my hub puller?

Oh, BTW when this first occurred turning the ignition did absolutely nothing, no idiot lights, radio fan anything, last time I turned the key, whilst looking for the rearward removal, position 1 did become available, so I suspect something loose in the actual switch, Bah!

Cheers

Ian

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Lots of pics please. Never pulled a barrel from an SDI Lupo...

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Will do, hopefully tomorrow, had to buy a hub-puller (arriving today) as I cannot find my old one anywhere ☹️

Ian

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**** me, just drill the barrel already.

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What parts did you need to buy? That steering column sleeve looks like a pain. And there's that spring. No idea why that's there.

@Rich he didn't want to drill it out as he wanted to keep the same key set I believe.

Did you manage to find the fault in the old lock switch?

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Split the how to and saved I the Archive and How to guides.

 

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Rich, why drill out the barrel when there was nothing wrong with it, moreover you still wouldn't be able to access the fixing bolt and as mk2 says, I keep the existing key/immobiliser.

Mk2, the only part I needed in the end was the actual switch unit, the bit behind the key turn (see pic).  The sleeve was a pain, the lip is 2mm at best so your average puller is useless, the use of mole grips is not recommended by me but it saved me from taking a 'kin great big hammer to the thing!  The spring, your guess is as good as mine but I suppose it ensures the load through the steering column is constant (ish).  I haven't taken the switch apart, thought I'd do it better following several beers and a decent nights rest😁

Ian

IMG_20200902_144913.jpg

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8 minutes ago, Silver! said:

Split the how to and saved I the Archive and How to guides.

 

Thank you Silver, never thought one of my post would make it to such heady heights 😎

 

Ian

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