Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Ian Daly

Dead SDi

Recommended Posts

Hi all (?)

Looking at posts on here I'm not anticipating too many replies 🙄 though I shouldn't complain I visit here less that Father Christmas!

But, just in case, the missus went out to her car ('90 SDi 1.7 Lupo) to head off to her office as normal, standard start procedure for her (although I was watching from a sixth floor balcony about 75m away) brake lights came on and I could hear the starter throw, but it didn't turn over, a couple more attempts with same result.  I made my way down to her and Coldplay (cos it was all yellow) , I too tried but this time nothing, no brake lights, not even any dash lights.  I have to say that turning the ignition felt slightly odd, so I'm suspecting that there's a problem with the ignition switch and it now blown a fuse?  I have time to mull this over before I can have a further looks as she's cleverly stuffed the keys in her handbag and taken them into work, yes I did take her in and drop her off, so any thoughts anyone...one..one?

Cheers

Ian.

 

Edited by Ian Daly
inability to spell!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did you try with a couple of jump cables attached. Clean the battery terminals as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Skezza, thanks for the reply, no, I've done nothing so far she needed to get in to open up the office and as I said she taken the damn keys with her.  I doubt it's the battery though, the dash lights didn't even glow dimly and the battery was new this time last year, all tight, I did get chance to check that.  Gut feeling says that there's a problem with the switch and it's subsequently blown a fuse.

Ian

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My first reaction to your headline was "no, I don't believe it. SDIs don't die...". Unkillable.

But now I've read the detail, yes, the key switch contact thing is a known fault on all Lupos. And the main power relay behind the fuse panel (also controlled by the key switch). So yeah, that'd be my first port of call.

let us know how you go.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Mk2, thanks for coming back to me, you are correct, of course it can be resuscitated 😁 it's a right pain searching for the bits, think I'll get the old bits out and use their numbers, will I run into difficulties with the key coding or is that resolved within a different unit?

Of course I'll let you all know how it goes 👍

Ian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I failed miserably, falling at the first fence, I took off the steering column cowl, the parcel shelf beneath the wheel and unbolted the fuse box, I then looked at removing the ignition switch, no go, interference fittings and no obvious way of getting them off, I've now booked it in to have it done, I'll let you all know what was what. 

Ian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
23 hours ago, Ian Daly said:

I failed miserably, falling at the first fence, I took off the steering column cowl, the parcel shelf beneath the wheel and unbolted the fuse box, I then looked at removing the ignition switch, no go, interference fittings and no obvious way of getting them off, I've now booked it in to have it done, I'll let you all know what was what. 

Ian

Nice. Thanks. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, so my tame mechanic seems to be dragging his feet and hasn't pick Coldplay up, thought I'd have another look, I can do nothing with the ignition because of the non-interference fittings, of course I could have an attempt at drilling them out but I just know where that would end up.  The relays though, I can get to them and with a great deal of sweat (it's already 32 degrees here) I could change them, so which one?  I have four, looking at them right to left, 405, 100 and 109 with 103 on a different line above?

Ian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

109. You could simply leave everything out (if practical), and drive it. If it dies on you again, try tapping the relay which will prove it (if it is a dodgy contact). Chances are though, just flexing the cables to it will have moved the contacts inside the relay a fraction- that might completely cure the problem!

To remove the shear bolts, drill out with cobalt drill bits. Start small and work up. So like 3mm, then 5, then 8mm (if 5 or 6 doesn't work). Get a small bit set for a few quid.... always handy.

Yeah too hot to work in the sun on a car.

I just had a thought- never done it, but you might be able to access the ignition switch from the wire end? The shear bolts are simply to prevent access to the lock barrel.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I figured out it was 109 but thanks for the support 👍 and excellent advice.

Tapped it, wiggled it, slapped it about a bit, nah, nothing, it just won't play ball, it's out and I'm just off to see if I can get a replacement now, have ordered one from Euro Car Parts but can't collect that until tomorrow, never mind if it is that and I can get another it's a spare, maybe the replacement won't last 20 years eh?  Of course if it is the switch, no end of replacement relays will help ☹️.  I'll have look to see itf it'll come out from the  wire end, well I will if it cools down a bit 🥵  If it does need drilling out it won't me Mr Ham-Fists here doing it!

Ian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.