mk2

I've been finding the same for many parts from ECP recently. Yeah when left and right sides are different, i can't stand it. OCD for sure Ball joints, track rod ends, bonded bushes, lock components, brake parts, wheel bearings. Arggghhhh!

If it sticks, my guess is that something hasn't been put back right. The plunger should travel in and out quite easily, with the pedal connection point at the centre of the pivot. So when off, it should be slightly high, when pressed slightly low. Is the brake servo working ok?

Jammed control switch (water may have got in). You need to remove the door card, then remove the switch. Then swap it, or if you're feeling adventurous, dismantle it and clean the little circuit board and metal discs. Or just leave it disconnected for the time being. Welcome to club lupo

There's a couple in the Reading area I know of. I'd say they both know their stuff on vdubs. VAG autoworks and Storm developments.

Depends... could be a bit better, like 70?

Yeah, SDI is a fair bit more involved. My least fav cam belt.

The weird thing is though, even when you use the locking tools - the way where you can insert and remove the pegs easily afterwards - I've found that the torsion value can be wrong. Should be 0.0. When I've used the tools (which I can't find at the mo), I've ended up +- 0.8 out. No idea why. Then I correct it manually (trial and error). I have read on other forums (American usually), where people have experimented with different torsion value settings on the 1.9 TDI, some generate a bit more torque (and smoke), other's less torque and cleaner. I can only assume it's the plunger position relative to crank. I don't know if the ECU compensates for different torsion values, but i guess it must do, or injection timing will be out??? I like to think of torsion value as a different instantaneous slope angle as it pushes down on the injector. Steeper= more dispensed fuel for a given open injector pulse. Shallower, less fuel. A bit like VE pump timing.

As per title... my first ever Lupo one. Just over an hour's work. Engine code AMF. But used only basic tools. No pins, rods, timing clamps... just a paint mark, spanners and a socket set. All this talk of having to make sure all the timing is set perfectly. What a load of carp. Most difficult bit is removing the undershield. Loads of space to work compared to the other 4 cylinder engines. The purists will be telling me, no no no, you can't do it like that (aimed at @RAB) Yes you can. At the end all you need to do is check the torsion number on VCDS and adjust the cam timing if it's not 0.0 when hot. (Group 14 item 4). That's it. I actually like to set it at +0.6 to allow it to settle in to 0.0 after a running few miles. Helps if you make a note of the value before starting your work to see if the old belt has stretched (indicated by a negative number like -1.6 meaning the injection cam timing is late). (late edit- i always take out the glow plugs when I do a diesel- easier to turn the engine and you get a chance to inspect the plugs. 2 had failed)

Might have been me? I used a short piece of 15mm plastic plumbing pipe. I'll see if i can find that pic. 6 years ago! If we're talking the same clip...?

You bet. Thumbs up from me. Very nice...

What I like to call a 'minter'. Lovely condition. 👍🏻

Yeah, that looks ok. If mostly short journeys, I'd go one level hotter. So if it's a nnn7 plug, try a nnn6. Helps keep combustion chamber a bit cleaner, but shorter plug life.

That is cool. Watching this thread... 👍🏻

You know I have a gut feeling it's not ignition related. A manifold or vacuum hose / servo hose leak usually causes this type of problem. Try disconnecting the vacuum lines and plugging them if you get nowhere with new ignition bits to help isolate the fault. But, could be compression . Hoepfully not the valves or HG. May just be a stuck ring and needs a good thrashing after an oil change (if low compression).

Yeah, if not ignition, check for air leaks. Injectors rarely fail. Not fuel pump. If you're running it over winter, coming up rapidly... might be worth swapping the thermostat and coolant for a new one. That'll help the engine warm up quicker and save on cold running fuel costs. If it were me, I'd also vent the sump breather fumes to the road under the car via a length of flexible electrical conduit. Means the engine will be breathing nice clean air, resulting in very slightly higher power! Bung the hole where the oil vapours get sucked in. Your throttle body will stay sweet. They're good little engines that like being caned.

Upload pics directly on the forum if you need to... As far as I know @MattyB has managed to get a bit more advertising funding, so now has put us on a bigger hard drive (more available memory). The pics should be safe (no uncertain 3rd party site to rely on). Just click on an ad occasionally to help pay for the hosting, then delete your cookies.

One day someone will offer me a late uk spec 6 speed Gti riddled with electrical and mechanical problems, but with a perfect interior and mint outside. For £1k. Please? Anyone? In white ideally?

Nice. Big miles, but looks well maintained. Bargain! I like the anthracite wheels. Mine are silver.

How's the A3 (from memory) going? Long time no visit here.....? We missed you! The forum needs a bit of a wake up these days

Hi and welcome to club lupo lots more details please. Which model? But chances are that the pipe crimp joining the rubber pipe to the steel pipe has corroded away and the car has dumped all the hydraulic fluid on the road. Your pump will be running without fluid, so no lube, which coukd destroy it. Don't use the car. Or could be the fuse to the electric power steering pump (if a different model). Pic of car?

Had another idea... if you have some pins/needles, push them through the insulation of the wires going to/from the keyswitch. Put clips and tape on and monitor the power/voltage on each wire. At least it will 100% prove that the keyswitch is at fault. You could set up some small light bulbs, one on each wire, so you can monitor each line. Any flickering or not lit, and you know what the problem is. No fault, then all the wires will be ok, without any cutting. If you wanted, you could bypass the keyswitch and add a sneaky power on switch in a spare switch slot. Just a temporary bypass until you get a chance to go down to a breakers yard and have a play on a donor car first- if you find a problem.

If you were down south, near London, or here, you'd easily get £3.5k+.

Welcome to club lupo try and fix it. Is it the seal? You could even rewind the solenoid coil with new wire.... Everything is fixable, especially if you have the skills to do engine part swaps.

Cool. Good to know 👍🏻

Yeah i'll second that. check that the clutch is adjusted correctly, as the pedal boxes can fail and mess things up. There's a thread on it.