mk2

It depends. The trade off is torque vs power. The way they work is very dependent on RPM and the resonant frequency in the pipe. So to get the best results, you need to be able to play with ignition timing and cam timing. And you can add a bigger bore exhaust and more silencing so you actually end up with more power (and/or torque), but run much quieter. Mercedes are very good at it. You might want to read up on header and extractor flow theory... 🙄 And so cool to have a club lupo member in Korea! My guess you have a Jap import?

That's neat. What tool did you use? With mine, it's loads of hassle. First you have to do one open flare, the you turn the die round and do it again to close it up to create that "bubble". And sometimes it goes wrong, so you have to cut it off and start over.

That top plug colour is way out. So it's that cylinder that is messing about. All the other stuff is nothing.

6N0711167A It's the rubber boot between the gear cable mech and the input selector to the gearbox. Mine has split. In fact they split on every Lupo with a 085 gearbox! Last time I paid £3.84 a couple of years ago.

Probably not a purge valve. More likely an Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve. They are usually repairable if you're careful. They usually just get gummed up then jam. So with some patience, you can give them a good clean and try again. To test it, supply a vacuum and 12v and check it opens and closes completely. Oh, and welcome to club lupo

More info please oh and a pic of the car 👍🏻

Shaking is most likely a misfire, either caused by a fuel or ignition fault. Typically ignition? That pipe, I think is the sump blowby gas breather pipe, which shouldn't cause a misfire. if you can get a cheap scan tool to plug into the car, or a lead to a laptop, that will help point you in the right direction. You can even get bluetooth dongles that link to your phone and an app. I use a laptop together with shareware (VCDS). Oh, and welcome to club lupo

Oh god, yet another vdub affected by their damned ignition leads. What is it with vdub ignition leads and coil packs?? Give it a year or two and you'll need to change them again... try squirting some silicone grease lube into every socket/cap to help keep the moisture out.

Ah, ok, yeah i forgot... I've just about got another one of mine road ready. Might have a mini cruise here if i insure them all! Today's jobs were fitting a dashcam, changing the thermostat and flush, new coolant, check the wierd gearbox linkage behind the engine. Yup, need some new parts. The little plastic rod link and the rubber bellows had split (like they do on every 085 gearbox fitted car). And trace a small leak- it's the left rear tailight cluster seal. Sigh. Job for next weekend. @Rich told me a few weeks back that you were selling the green one and was I interested... It looks lovely. I can see the kiddie seat next to the car on the ground. Kinda tells us why it's being moved on

No more Lupo for @danno ?! What? First @mscherryviolet leaves us in an Audi.... now you. @Rich will be next.

That's pretty much a mint car apart from those very minor and easy to sort scuffs. And five spokes... Nice. The alternator fault is almost certainly the brushes. A quick easy fix for about a tenner. Or swap over the alternator from one in a breakers for about £25. I'd say worth about £800 once it's been detailed inside and out. Those body blemishes would cost about £200 to sort and then the car really would be like new. I mean 63k miles for a Y reg?! Awesome!

It's the bit that the door strap bolts into, on the lower part of the 'A' pillar. Between the two door hinges. Both doors.

@RAB Is there a way of checking the clutch release bearing action- along the sleeve? Isolate the actuator? On a regular 085 you can grab the lever and "feel" it bite as you push on the lever that connects to the cable. That sensor measures the in-out action like someone stamping on the clutch pedal; Is there anything in the 3L "system" that could cause it to engage slowly like he's describing. My best guess is that you're spot on, and it's the sleeve binding on the little plastic bit on the inside of the release bearing. Just wondering if it's possible to isolate the mechanism to "feel" what it's doing. otherwise, yeah, gearbox out again... yup. found the self study guide thing: http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_218.pdf pic of gearbox with that actuator thing (never seen one for real...)

Hey @RAB, do you think he could pull the starter out and have a look through the hole to see what's going on? I know that there are bits/holes on the 3L flavour gearbox that are different to the regular 085, and am thinking that there might be some neat way to get access to the clutch release bearing lever. I've never worked on one. If he could get to the lever/release bearing and guide sleeve around the input shaft, he might be able to clean and "lightly" lube it with some molyslip or something. What you think? Transporting a car across the country on a flatbed gets expensive.

Not local to you... But have you had a read of the vdub how it works guide thing? Most german car techs should be able to sort it, or at least find the source of the problems.

I hope you didn't pay for the clutch. The after diagnostics and post mess up repair will cost even more than a clutch at a vdub specialist. Bill them... Yeah @RAB is right. The guide sleeve can cause the clutch fork to move slowly. I had the same problem on one of my 085 boxes. Oil leaks out of the bearing seal onto the guide tube. Which picks up dust then turns into a really sticky goop, binding the slider to the tube. Also makes the clutch (on a normal lupo) heavy.

Yeah it is a bubble flare i call it double as you do it twice... 🙄 My old tool is Moprod brand, uses calcium grease as a lube on cunifer.

Yeah 3/16 will work ok, and yeah, double flare for double flare joins. Just copy what's already there. Not 100% sure from memory, but I think 12mm across the range with older vdubs. I find the trick is to make sure you cut the pipe perfectly square. I use one of those mini wheel pipe cutters. Then make sure the pipe is perfectly straight before it goes into the die clamp. Lots of lube when rolling the second flare.

You won't need anything custom at all. Every part you need is already available made by vdub. Use TDI and SDI mounts. Once you have the engine out of the golf - and running - it'll all become obvious what goes where. I'm not 100% sure, but I think the TDI box will work (with frequent oil changes). Also the SDI gearbox mount, as the 4 pot is a longer block than the 3 pot TDI, so everything get's shifted. The SDI box will also work (with lots of oil & bearing changes), but will need to be tilted a few degrees to match the engine, as it's more upright than the SDI block. Gti driveshafts. It's been done a few times already. From memory, I think the throttle pedal was the only problem- use the sensor from early SDI.

Do this you will (yoda). in a nutshell, you need to be able to get the engine running on it's own when it's completely removed from the golf. So a fair bit of wiring, sensors and stuff. Once it's running fine on its own, you're ready to start on the Lupo. Transplant will be straight forward based on Lupo TDI bits. The engine has to think it's still in the golf. The lupo has to think it's a golf for everything to work. Looks like a lupo, but in reality it's....

Temp and abs easy. the others sound like a plug hasn't been plugged in. Check the plugs around the gearbox clutch controller. or perhaps part of the loom has been accidentally broken. did the car run just fine before the clutch went?

Everything needs to be changed. I also thought about doing it. No, didn't happen. welcome to club lupo

https://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/101571-how-to-set-up-the-right-camber-angle-non-gti/

I'll second that. Yeah, I do them on all of my Lupos every couple of years. Essential if you want your Lupo to last. The fronts are easy enough to clear out, and it gives me a chance to check the integrity of the waterproofing when the covers are off. It's the little plastic inserts that the screws plug into that always worry me a bit. The reason they're there is because it permanently wet; the idea being that there is no direct contact between the screws and the bodywork. The crud builds up because all the water that runs off the windscreen and roof is channelled into the scuttle under the wipers- which flushes any dust and bits straight down into the arches. The rears are more problematic because there's a sharp edge where the paint chips off exposing bare metal below. Then the rust worms its way below the paint until it reaches the spot welded seam and it's game over. Only solution is to grind off any remaining paint and rust and redo it all. I've already had to respray the rear arches on my Silver SDI. The other's I've held in check for the time being with waxoyl, after a thorough drying first with a hair dryer... It's worth a quick maintenance check on your arches like @LexG suggests if you haven't inspected them for a while, as it'll save you a "lot" of work and money later.

It is possible to swap anything with anything, if it fits within the vdub world. Most gearbox mounting flanges are exactly the same. But the differences are the mounts to the body and the angle at which the engine-box combination sit in the engine bay. Some engines lean back, some forward, so you need to change sumps and engine mountings, exhaust manifolds and gear shift mechs. Plus a few other things. AND the ECU usually will notice that something is different, so it wont run right. This is true for the entire range of vdub stuff. Unless you have access to ECU programming tools and a detailled parts compatibilty catalogue (local breakers yard), plus deep pockets, I'd say try and keep everything orginal. It gets expensive real quick...