mk2

Hopefully they'll do you a favour and not charge you too much. Post a pic once done

OMG! How awful. Poor bloke on the bike, but you and your cherry.... After all the attention and care. But, you can think positively about it- if you keep the car after agreeing a price with the insurance company, you could sell all the parts for more than you bought it for. But you need somewhere to park it off road. I'm so sorry. Such a shame.

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Why do you want a turbo? Sdi's are great just as they are...

Yeah, if you get it off, take it to a hydraulics place (like Pirtek), and they'll reuse the end fittings and swage on new sleeves. Keep the pipe exactly as it comes off to get the length and the termination orientation right. Not cheap, like £50, but it'll last forever. Otherwise take the Rich option and find a donor car. I wouldn't delete the power steering option, as it makes it very heavy to park.

Take a pic from the side and post it here. "E" spec cars are slightly higher than "S" (but it might be the tyres!).

not 100% sure, but don't some other vdubs/seats/skodas use the same part? you get a bargain sometimes, if you buy your vdub part from a skoda dealer!

Yeah, could be engine mount... Good 'un Pete

Ipads and editing texts via a script in a frame quite simply dont work. On ipad right now and hate typing. Soooo much easier to do a how to on a pc. I wouldnt even try. To do it on a phone ---> mad. My how tos all done on a pc in minutes.

could be top strut bearing, wishbone bush or even cv joint... maybe even a loose wheel! Do as Rich says...

I'm wondering if perhaps the 'ignition on' 12v feed from the ig switch is crossed over with the 'starter motor' feed? I think i'm understanding the problem right- ig switch on causes cranking, but turning ig switch to crank stops the cranking, but ignition stays on? OR, is it that once the engine is turning, a signal from the ecu is causing another feed to go high (+12v). A bit like when the fuel pump feed goes high when you crank, and it keeps the fuel pump feed going so long as the engine is turning (determined by the crank sensor). I'm trying to understand the problem better...

Don't forget that auto boxes need servicing every couple of years too if you want them to last. Fluid and filter change... And diff topup. And magnet clean. Doesn't take long or cost the earth, but will make a huge difference to your gearshifts.

I think your tool is for the 1.9 engine, but not 100% sure.

Could be the door seal- behind the door card...?

If you're getting only six volts, it would typically mean that the power is being interrupted somewhere by a high impedance contact. So that tells me that somewhere there is a contact that is arcing away, reducing the volts. Could be ignition switch. Could be a relay contact. Could be a loom connection. Could be loose fuse. In a nutshell, anywhere where power flows through to power the main electrical 'ignition-on' circuit. I'd start by assuming the earth is ok, then tracing the + voltage along the route that leads to the ignition switch. You'll need to pull all the plastic interior panels off under the steering column to do that.... Rich might be right. Could be worth simply swapping over that relay as a quick test.

Also check the tdc mark on the flywheel. you might be lucky, but with the old belt that badly stripped, i suspect that the head and/or pistons have had it.

Well there's a first for me. Never ever heard of that happening before. Someone must have kicked (or sat on) the gear stick to break the selector slide thingy...

Phew. Thats ok then. Almost once a month i read about people's gearboxes going bang on here and every time my heart sinks....

Are there now two pages? I'm not wiki tech enough to figure out what is what.

You shouldn't drive it till you fix it... It'll go bang and then you'll need to fork out on a complete new or refurbed box for £500+. Refurb now and you'll pay around £250...

nice work Skezza. how long did that take? good stuff! we're making progress. once we get going proper-like, it'll snow ball me thinks

It does beg the question about how a car maker switches the location of a production line or assembly plant. A production line is a very big, complex beast. And then you have to have all the components nearby ready to fit... Switching location to chnage final trim or wheels or final stuff yes, but the entire line??? I find it hard to believe.

I'll keep adding my 2p worth so it can edited later. I dont know how to create categories, but i think thats a good idea. If everyone who reads it adds just one single common fault, it'll build up quickly. Like you say, making it look good would be great.