mk2

Yeah. Simple one at that. Just need a bung, some electrical conduit and some cable zip ties. Divert the gases down under the car to the road.

Yeah, now imagine all that gunk being sucked into your precision engine internals.... can't beat a breather bypass. You've seen what it does to the throttle body. Best way to get rid of custard is to get the engine nice'n'hot. It melts away into the oil which you can change along with the filter.

One word. Emissions control. Ok, so two words.... the cat will convert any unburnt fuel before it has a chance to get to the tail pipe. So no go really.

That's the TPS throttle position sensor, the thing that tells the computer what position the throttle valve is at. The feed is usually 5v and earth, with the output varying between 0.5-4.5 volts approx. The output should be smooth, without any jumps between idle and WOT. if it doesn't work, the computer can't tell how open it is so it makes a best guess. But once warm, the fixed idle air gap allows just enough air through to idle normally. Clever get you home program if there's a fault.

Is that caused by the sump blow by gases getting sucked through? Haven't worked on that specific engine so dunno TBH. I always divert blowby gasses away from any intakes. Why give your engine smelly, polluted, contaminated air after you go through all the effort of filtering everything before it gets in there.... bonus is your engine runs smoother, a bit more power, cleaner exhaust emissions, better economy etc etc. I can't believe i just used 'etc etc' on CL!

The serif tops of the "u" and the "b" are slightly different.

Yeah, ok, so it might be temp sensor from your description. Sounds like it's leaning out, then dies. Different to a sudden cutting out. Sounds like a fuelling issue based on wrong sensor readings. When the engine's stone cold, what do the diagnostics read, if you look at the temp probes? Are they the same? (Air/coolant).

So it dies gradually, not like the ignition's been turned off?

I've just been looking at various serif fonts. Omg. There are g'zillions. It's not a typeface font. Or sans serif. Looks like a modern arty font. The slash cut on the 'C' is unusual. might be HVD Comic Serif Pro ?

If it's not the ignition switch or immobiliser, it sounds like crank sensor. Unlikely to be temp sensor. which model lupo is it?

I still want stickers...

I once race tuned a Lada for a laugh (yeah it is possible), and i remember doing exactly that- wherever there is too much movement in a joint, you can whack it to close it up. I didn't think anyone knew that old trick...! Sounds like @Rich went to the same school as me.

I thiught that they use low friction coefficient nylon 66 type compounds. It has a naturally low surface friction, similar to teflon (ptfe), but tougher. I does make me ponder why there is some grease on the surface of the sphere. Nylon combined with steel doesn't need lube. @mscherryviolet is right though. It is most important.

Moisture can cause havoc with the positive feed, just like ignition cables.

Haven't laughed so much for ages! Excellent! Yeah, yank tanks are just way too big. Or maybe our little lupo is a little bit small. Genuine LOL! Car wash story also very funny. Brilliant! You guys have snow already? Wow. Yeah, get those rear arches jet washed, properly hair dryer dried and then wax sealed. Same for the front sills and the whole underneath. Check the two roof channel strips too. They rust under there sometimes. Thinking about the oil filter; chances are most Asian or European cars have a metric central spin-on filter thread. So if you can find one that has around the same rubber seal size and is a reasonable length, it'll work fine. All filters flow from outside to inside for some reason, so my guess is that any will work. Old mk1/2 golfs (rabbits) may be the same fitment. Some 90's chryslers/plymouths/dodges too. Those pics just made my day. Excellent!

Welcome to the most sensible car forum on the internet. Nice wheels. Bet those tyres were tricky to stretch.

Looking very nice. I wish all my SDI subframes looked that good. I'd now be covering everything with waxoyl, just to spoil it all. Those shocks you can pull anytime. Quick easy job. How are the bump stops looking? I swapped my old ones out for passat things. A bit harder rubber compound, but will hold that spray shield in place nicely.

Any pics?

I was thinking about doing an EV in either an old polo breadvan or mk1 twingo (looks right for an ev IMO). There was a guy on ebay in the US who went by the id blackdog who had a bunch of NOS ev1 motors. Syncronous things, AC rotary field theory, where you speed up the rotary mag field if you want to up the revs. Kinda like a washing machine motor (but bigger= 18kW continuous), which instead of running at 50Hz, you vary the ac frequency from DC (with current limiting) to about 4kHz for max speed. Apparently, way way more efficient than using DC motors. Thing i love about EVs is that you can over-rate an electric motor by loads for brief periods. So a small 15kW motor can take being run at 150kW for a few seconds. Like having a moped engine that can belt out Bentley power.... just long enough to do silly 0-60 times.

15 speed uSD card for me thank you. Mechanical audio went out with the ark.

£45 just for some metalwork. And works with very specific speakers, so you have to use all the right bits. No 12" base bins then. I bet that the first things to go on a scrappy Gti are the rear cards

Looks brand new to me....

How much did you pay? Nice looking motor! Were there any odd japanese bits inside?

Yeah, Ok... take a pic ir two first just in case there's something i spot. Can always bung it in the wash before fitting it again.... fading is probably the biggest problem after that hot summer we just had.

Yeah, this is the fabric type I need. Driver's seat back in particular for my silver SDI. Fabric without seat is fine. Easy enough to remove and fit.