angelo77

I miss my locost, same shape as a cateram but a lot cheaper, when I get another garage I will have one in a heartbeat, cheep insurance, peanuts to run, not flash but loads of fun at sensible speeds. If you have the budget and some mechanical knowhow, any of the t series tvrs are massive performance for the money, you will need £800 to £1500 per year for maintance, i ran a Griffith for 3 years with my old man, only problems we had was the odd electrical fault and the seals on the targa pannel for the roof.

Hi Cooper, Refurbed the callipers about six months ago, Also changed the sliders and seals. Fluid will be changed along with fitting braided lines. Also will be changing the bottle in the engine bay. All the bit and bots such as bushes etc have been uprated or changed for OE items. The only bits left to do are to finish of my inducion pipework, fit a new manifold and finish of the brakes. I will probably do 4 track days in the car this year, if it costs an extra £150 over standard parts for items more suited to heavy use then i'll change them, If the standard parts are up to the job then ill just put the money towards a manifold. I have not been able to find a brembo set up for decent money and I cant really wait much longer to change. Cheers pal

Has anyone had any experience of using tarrox discs and pads? I have 280mm standard disks and pad on mine at the moment; I need to replace all my disks and pads in the next few hundred miles. The car is used for road use two to three times a week and i am looking to do a few track days this years. I don’t want anything that will squeal like EBC green stuff etc. The tarrox set up is approx £310.00 for disks and pads, braided lines £90.00 ish then fluid to suit. I was just going to use genuine disks and pads for the rear £110.00 With the fluid Im looking at £500.00 plus so any experience with this kind of use would be appreciated. Kind Regards Angelo

I used to put anything in, since the engine swap I only put in shell v power or bp ultimate. It's about 4 to 5 pound more than 95ron per tank. Well worth it in my opinion

Whiteline from awsome is about £130.00, had mine on for about 1500 miles now. It's on the hardest setting now. Love it to bits, No experience of the jabba sports one Any rear arb is better than no rear arb!

Hi pal, My orginal engine began to use a lot of oil at 90,000 miles, regular oil changes at every 5000 miles, had the car from almost new so fsh. purchased a second engine with 60,000 miles and fsh out of a damaged car and swapped them over. It really is the luck of the draw as mechanically the orginal engine was pampered, I will strip it down when I get time to see if there is any wear. I have had mine now 9 years, dont think i will ever sell!!

I have the one from the for sale section, nfbr will refurbish the one you have, takes about 2 days.

I'll be honest, I have mine in at the trimmers to change over all of the seat covers, £25.00 per cover, have done this once before and it took ages to get them to sit right, Angelo

There are a few threads on here that cover this in depth, Just use the search function Once you have a specific brand or budget you will get a bit more advice Angelo

Recieved mine today, excellent service, bulb fitted and matches my original. Regards Angelo

Lovely looking motor

I like that!

Just thougth I would update this now I have had a few hundred miles with them on. All of the suspension bushes have been changed to poly witht the exception of the front antiroll bar bushes. I have some standard bushes to go on when the car comes back from the bodyshop as I struggled to fit the golf ones, There should be some poly ones for sale early next year from awsome as they are under development at the moment. Next, I opted for wertec coilvers, very well made for the price, went on very easy I then adjusted the whiteline rear arb from medium to hard I am running 25mm spacers on the rear Tracking and alignment done at sheldons tyres, as I was struggling to get to awsome for them to set it up. Impresions so far, Need to have the rear arches rolled or raise the suspension up a little as they catch when I am pushing on. The first few hundred miles, the ride was a bit bouncy, they have settled now or I have gotten use to it so it is not as noticable. Lots more confidence on turn in, car settles into the corner and stay planted, entry speed is higher, speed through the corner especialy on long sweeping bends is much more confidence inspiring. Rough cost are below: Suspension 450 Poly bushes+rear arb 231 tracking and camber 65 Plus labour if you are not doing it yourself. I cheated with the bushes and hired a ramp for the weekend for a £100.00 With other parts ball joints, engine mount, few other bits and bobs it has cost me £981.00 to overhaul the suspension carrying out the work myself Thing left to do: Replace ball joints, These are on my desk at work Chase NFBR at awsome for a price on some spacers for the front Fit the uprated lower engine mount Once the car is back from the body shop I am hoping to have the suspension parts replaced, fit the front spacers and have the car set up properly at awsome. Long term, Lower strut brace rose joints for rear arb Bigger brakes Depending on if or how many times I get out on track next year, adjustable top mounts, the same as 99hjhm KWv3, for adjustability, this mainly dependent upon not buying a dedicated track toy. Hope this is helpful if anyone is looking to improve the way there car handles PS, After all this love and attention she has thrown a hissy fit and one of my headlights has stoped working, Just hope its not the ballast!! Regards Angelo

Let me know if it dose not go Angelo

Hi pal, PM you

I bought them pal,

Are you in Thatcham near kettering pal? I am in the process of putting together everything I have spent on parts and labour over the 8/9 years I have had the car. I swapped my old engine out for a new one and still ended up spending a few hundred replacing parts while the engine was out. I am pricing up a decent induction set up at the moment similar to the one 99hjhm has (his car thread is definatly worth a good read) and that alone will be £110 for materials without the cost of the filter included. I would get a list of parts required together, A List of tools you will need Make sure you have a dry warmish area to work and this always saves time and will keep you motivated And dont do anything that you cant put back if you are not happy about it And just to give you a budget idea, My exhaust with 100 cell cat was £675.00, Coilovers, polybushing, Rear ARB £700 ish new engine £450.00, consumable parts, timing belt varous bits and bobs £200, hire of engine cradle, ramp etc @ mates rates £75.00 for the weekend thats £2300.00 Thats not taking into account that I work at an engineering firm and have access to most power tools etc Just get as much info as you can and have a realstic goal in mind, Angelo PS you will need bigger brakes!!!

It's best to have a clear idea of all the costs involved otherwise you end up with a stalled project. The reason I have highlighted the insurance is the cost for cover on all cars has increased, at 19 anything that is modified will be expensive. No point in taking the time to build something only to not be able to enjoy it as the running costs are to high, then when you come to sell on, you will only have a small market of potential buyers.

Have you asked what the difference in the insurance will be for changing the engine. Cost wise, if it is just going to be a weekend car then there are more focused alternatives that would be cheaper to own / upgrade as you find the time / money. Just be aware that you will never get the money back you put into this Angelo

Are you selling the engine mount?

Pictures added

With a viper carbon induction, 100 cell cat and stainless custom exhaust that I have on mine, I may have a ten percent increase in power over stock, so possibly 12bhp. It revs more freely and pulls harder at the top of the rev range, the only way to find out is a rolling road, need to get onto awsome and see if we can get another one set up for early next year. Any takers?

I have a pipercross viper on mine, i very much doubt that you would gain anywhere near those figures with just an induction kit.

Its a nippy rather than a rapid car, It is surprising how much speed you can carry though. Once warm, i always use the full range of revs, the last 1500rpm is where it is at,

Are you up for splitting? I'm after the gear box clutch and drive shafts