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Hi So which wires am i chopping and what's the name of the wiring harness i need mate?

Thanks My mechanic removed the defective pin / bolt, drilled the threads then put a sleeve in & new bolt.

As one of the site's moderators, I thought I'd break all the GDPR rules and show everyone how dumb some of bots are. They try to get new membership or post stuff months after joining. But us humans are still just a little bit smarter. See below screen shot of some of the info that site admins can see to check. Just some entertainment for a quiet rainy morning... Enjoy

Yep. That's what the numbers actually mean.

Thicker oil does provide more pressure.

You need to go to the mechanic to check the oil pressure with a pressure gauge (to rule out the sensor). If the pressure is really low then there are two causes: the easiest - worn pump, the most expensive - engine wear. The viscosity of the oil you bought is ok and I don't think you can solve anything by changing the viscosity.

The operation of relay 109 can be checked very easily: when the ignition is switched on, the glow plug warning light must light up (if it's hot outside or the engine is hot, it lights up for a very short time). If this light does not light up, it means that the ECU is not receiving power. If the glow plug warning light comes on, leave relay 109 alone for a moment. If the Fuel shut-off valve (N109) does not receive voltage, the problem may be with the wiring or the ECU. The wiring must be checked first. The wire from N109 goes through a black 10-pin plug found on the injection pump. In this plug the wire reaches pin no. 8. See if there is voltage in this plug. Otherwise, the wire from N109 reaches the ECU on pin 120 (you can check the continuity of this wire with a multimeter). I have a question: does the car not start at all or does it start and stop immediately? An error scan would be very helpful. Below you have the positioning of the relay that ensures the ECU power supply (109) Also check fuses SB23, SB24 and especially SB37

Yeah, behind the fuse panel. Disconnect the battery first. Might also be ignition switch or the big round loom connector just above the gearbox (but unlikely). 1.7 "TDI". That's a rare beast. I only know of one other owned by @battlebus pic of car?

Same as on a mk4 golf rear door RHS top hinge... Peanuts from a breakers yard. You need a spline tool and HUGE amounts of torque to remove it.

Since few of the more recent tyres are available in 15", I think the Michelin Pilot Sport 3 is the best choice for road use. Having said that, I'm planning to try the Pirelli P1 Cinturatos next time I need tyres, the same size, 195/50/15, people say they work really well on the road and marginally better on the track.

I know this is old and probably won’t get a reply but I have a similar problem… vw lupo 1.7tdi my fuel shut off solenoid isn’t getting any power it’s almost like the wire has burnt out ??? seen other pd pages that say the 109 relay but do lupos have them ? Idk. Any help would be appreciated cheers Josh

I'm having a problem locating a 2002 Lupo lower door hinge (right hand side) Can anyone help? Thanks

Good choice on the tyres too. It's what I buy Yep, I was right. Very nice wheels.

Thank you, They are the OZ Superturismos (Gen 1) that were used on the Lupo GTI Cup Cars back in the day! Most likely will have them refurbished with the wording altered to "Volkswagen Racing" to make them more fitting to the car's era. The center caps will also likely be changed to the chrome/black Volkswagen logo, similar to what the MK4 R32 Aristo wheel has.

My little TDi is slowly oxidising. An A2 beckons. Ugly little things.....

I like the new wheels... 👍🏻

Few weeks behind on these updates, so here goes Over the Easter Bank Holiday Weekend, the sun decided to come out at last and dry out the roads, which gave me the opportunity to play with the sport! Probably completed best part of 250 miles over the few days, certainly blew the cobwebs off that's for sure! Also gave me the chance to properly use the freshly built engine to its full potential, Sully has certainly built some masterpiece, couldn't be happier! A matter of days later, the Sport was taken to Jack @ Motion Fabrication for a custom Kam Racing exhaust system. The system was modified to fit the Sport, including the addition of a 16" centre silencer to reduce noise & swapping the tip back to the OEM Sport one. It's safe to say that he did a fantastic job; the tip is perfectly positioned in the centre cutout, so you would never know that it had a modified exhaust from the outside! Sounds absolutely incredible, the centre silencer achieving the ideal balance between engine roar and exhaust rasp with a bonus being the manifold is gorgeous! I've kept the old exhaust that Jack took out of the car in case I decide to put it back in stock. I've driven 1000+ miles in it since the exhaust was installed, which is ridiculous for me, but I just can't get over how great it sounds! Something I never thought I'd say: the SDI was thrown in the garage for literally two weeks while I "dailyed" the sport. Really fantastic every day, apart from the fuel bill. The car is really starting to come together now, the next major task on the list is to refresh the rear beam, suspension and brakes, which should get it really tight to drive. Instagram : Hector.Bishop.Penn

I've encountered a few. So much so I keep spares.

Oh, everyone is talking about the pedal not the box. I'm being thick. Thought you meant the pedal box... It's like how could it- because it can't. But yeah the pedal breaks on that little tab that sticks out. Lots of weld needed. Surprising that they go TBH. Only ever encountered one on a Bora.

They go exactly like mk4 golfs and TTs.

Mine broke on the arosa tdi!!

I got mine from LED Perf, best thing I ever done regarding headlights. More or less plug and play, cut and splice 2 wires thats all.

And @Skezza

I believe @CLAYTONJONESis your man for this