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Lupo Race Build


truCido
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thats some hefty progress mate, well done.

Looks scary though! Keep it up!

Cheers mate, he's changed a bit since you last saw him :)

Hopefully mid year he'll become even more of a beast with a few nice engine mods that I'm planning

Edited by truCido
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Wow, neat progress.

Just a random thing I thought of, are you keeping the brakes the way they are with the servo and 4 wheel split lines??

It's funny that you say that as I'm looking into that right now! Any recommendations?

Edited by truCido
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It's funny that you say that as I'm looking into that right now! Any recommendations?

Well for a start, re-pipe the whole lot, run the lines through the car, copper tube is fine, copper nickel is harder to bend, and more expensive(Wouldn't bother tbh) or use Aeroquip TFT braided hose throughout, with no hard lines if you can afford it. Running copper tubing is lighter and 100 times cheaper, brass unions also saves a little weight. Only need one line front to rear, split on the rear beam.

I would concider fitting a pedal box, with tandem MC's, save a load of weight junking the ABS and servo's.. (assuming you have ABS), some pedal boxes can be bought really cheap now, as they are commonly fitted in kit cars, blowing £2k on an AP set up is a total waste of money even for a professional race team. A pedal box would allow you to tune the brake bias via master cylinder sizes and the brake bar(Adjustable via cable), The Lupo setup might mean you constantly lock up the rear brakes as the front brakes(and fluid, causing a long pedal) get hot during a race. Just perfect if you have a hydraulic clutch.

Best thing to do... See what everybody else is doing, take pictures and ask questions.

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Well for a start, re-pipe the whole lot, run the lines through the car, copper tube is fine, copper nickel is harder to bend, and more expensive(Wouldn't bother tbh) or use Aeroquip TFT braided hose throughout, with no hard lines if you can afford it. Running copper tubing is lighter and 100 times cheaper, brass unions also saves a little weight. Only need one line front to rear, split on the rear beam.

I would concider fitting a pedal box, with tandem MC's, save a load of weight junking the ABS and servo's.. (assuming you have ABS), some pedal boxes can be bought really cheap now, as they are commonly fitted in kit cars, blowing £2k on an AP set up is a total waste of money even for a professional race team. A pedal box would allow you to tune the brake bias via master cylinder sizes and the brake bar(Adjustable via cable), The Lupo setup might mean you constantly lock up the rear brakes as the front brakes(and fluid, causing a long pedal) get hot during a race. Just perfect if you have a hydraulic clutch.

Best thing to do... See what everybody else is doing, take pictures and ask questions.

Thanks for the advice really appreciate it! My plan had been to remove the ABS and Servo however I have read of some people losing a lot of braking power when removing the servo if everything else isn't setup correctly so I may have to keep the servo for now? I was going to replace all hoses with braided hoses and run them through the car as you suggested with a bias valve.

I would quite like to buy a pedal box however my budget at this moment doesn't allow for it, so it is something I plan to do but at the moment it will be staying with standard pedals.

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Thanks for the advice really appreciate it! My plan had been to remove the ABS and Servo however I have read of some people losing a lot of braking power when removing the servo if everything else isn't setup correctly so I may have to keep the servo for now? I was going to replace all hoses with braided hoses and run them through the car as you suggested with a bias valve.

I would quite like to buy a pedal box however my budget at this moment doesn't allow for it, so it is something I plan to do but at the moment it will be staying with standard pedals.

Don't loose any braking power junking the servo, just much harder to press the pedal, once you are use to it, it's fine.

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Dont run braided lines throughout the whole car, use hard lines and then braided to the calipers and under the beam.

The reason for this is because even though braided hoses flex a huge amount less than standad rubber they do still flex, so on a long run of hose your loosing alot of braking power expanding the hose.

Capeesh?

As far as pedal boxes go Tilton do a very reasonably priced 3 pedal setup these days, and top quality. Check it out on Demon Tweeks.

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Dont run braided lines throughout the whole car, use hard lines and then braided to the calipers and under the beam.

The reason for this is because even though braided hoses flex a huge amount less than standad rubber they do still flex, so on a long run of hose your loosing alot of braking power expanding the hose.

Capeesh?

As far as pedal boxes go Tilton do a very reasonably priced 3 pedal setup these days, and top quality. Check it out on Demon Tweeks.

yes sir :) Copper pipe through the car (cheaper to do this than braided hoses as well)

I've spent many hours pondering over the demon tweeks catalogue and already spent quite a lot of money with them lol! :) I had been looking at this pedal box: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=MSPORT&pcode=OBP0001PR but like I said my funds dont allow it at the moment.

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Yes Yes, nice and simple and above all cheap. I like it, I like alot.

Also loving your cage, proper job.

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Dont run braided lines throughout the whole car, use hard lines and then braided to the calipers and under the beam.

The reason for this is because even though braided hoses flex a huge amount less than standad rubber they do still flex, so on a long run of hose your loosing alot of braking power expanding the hose.

Capeesh?

As far as pedal boxes go Tilton do a very reasonably priced 3 pedal setup these days, and top quality. Check it out on Demon Tweeks.

They do expand, but nearly every professionally built race car I have seen has run nothing but full braided hoses for brakes, they are easier to install/remove and easier to bench test before fitting. One thing that put me off was the story of somebody shorting out a battery cable on a braided hose inside the car, once the braidinghas gone, so is a massive percentage of the hose strength.

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I've just been reading lots of stuff saying dont get copper hoses on the net. saying you have to be very careful around them etc. hmmmm. The few cars ive seen also have full braided hoses

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I've just been reading lots of stuff saying dont get copper hoses on the net. saying you have to be very careful around them etc. hmmmm. The few cars ive seen also have full braided hoses

lol.. Copper is fine, most of that stuff is regarding the US, where copper is not allowed for brake and I believe fuel lines. They think it's not safe.

Get this if your worried about copper..... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1-X-Brake-Pipe-3-16-Copper-Nickel-New-Tubing_W0QQitemZ120488493337QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item1c0dac8119

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I've just had the rather large bill for fitting the roll cage, removing the engine, wiring etc and its about £500 more than I was expecting so I'm now not sure if I'll be able to make the first race :(

**edit** If I do make the first race its going to be more of a testing ground and hopefully finish most things off before the next!

Edited by truCido
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  • 2 weeks later...

I picked the car up on Saturday, after being told the day before that it wouldn't actually be sprayed (interior or exterior) so I was a little pee'd off as they had the car for a week for no reason and even on Weds had said it would be ready, but never mind its done and we need to get on with the build! So I'll just end up spraying the cage with a few cans...

So this is Saturdays update! Just basically washed the car and tidied a few things up

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