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sjamezz022

Seat Arosa Track Car

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Hello all, I have finally pulled the trigger on something I’ve always wanted to do, a fully stripped track car built by me. I’m an electrician by day so I kinda know what’s going on but, I’m no mechanic! 

If your interested in pictures you can skip my boring intro! If you have some time and bored you can read it, it’s quite interesting hahaha!!

So I used to have a GTi, some moons ago:

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But never had it long enough to do anything I wanted, thanks to 2 kids! So 2 years and a house later I got permission to build a track car. It’s going to be slow but, built by me and how I want it.

So looking for a cheap base, doesn’t matter about engine as future plans for engine swap, wanted something that drove so I could get it home and that’s about it 😂.

Found one in MK 1.5hrs from home so me and the family took a trip to have a look and  it turned into an ikea trip (as they do).

The car is in an ok state for its age, but it’s been chaved at some point. Slammed on its ass on coilovers, the state of them is questionable! Being sold so cheap because it kept overheating, but driving over 50 it kept cool, luckily motorway driving was fine apart from the broken exhaust. Broken at the front flexi basically meant no exhaust at my feet! No heat through the vents either meant a cold, loud, dark and hopeful drive home! It kept cool until some roadworks where I had to pull off and find another road home! Oh and the steering wheel has been changed so if I did have a crash no airbag for me, luckily the family where in the Bora safe! Got home 30 mins after them as I couldn’t take going over 70 as it got too loud 😂 tried to pull into the parking space next to my house and beached it... 

dragged it off and abandoned it outside, I live in a quiet state so a 1.0 Slammed Arosa with no exhaust it a bit out of the norm!! Managed to get it into the car port/drive just as the road and paths haven’t been finished leaving the kerbs high!!

So bits I know are wrong:

- Overheating, it’s the temp sensor not kicking in the fans/cooling system properly.

- Difficult to get into gear, new clutch cable haven’t been adjusted properly.

- No air filter, realised when I got home (Knew something was missing!!) 

- Whatever damage being that low has caused!

 

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Its going to be some work but, it’s going to be fun to get stuck into something! But for £150 and an MOT till October what Can I complain about 😂

Thanks for reading, comments are welcome!

Sam

Edited by sjamezz022
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Welcome. Interested in this. 

Engine plans? Purely for casual track use or something competitive? There's a few of us on here with competition Lupos so there should be a lot of info for you about! :)

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Cheers mate, 

Unsure on the engine plans, was thinking Polo GTi but might go for an easier 1.4sport, been trying to find info but there’s not a lot about 😞. It would be my first engine swap so don’t want anything ridiculous! 

Possibly for casual track use but see how it goes really, been getting more into car aerodynamic so thinking of making some custom bits for it,  nothing chavtastic but some bits that could actually help downforce/grip?

Thanks mate might see you at some meets when I’ve worked on it a bit, it’s still embarrassing to drive hahaha 😂 

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Sounds good, I'll keep an eye on this! 

I run a 1.4, if you need any advice or guidance feel free to message. 

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5 hours ago, cj1 said:

Welcome. Interested in this. 

Engine plans? Purely for casual track use or something competitive? There's a few of us on here with competition Lupos so there should be a lot of info for you about! :)

who who???

:) nice project!

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Just now, WRC said:

who who???

:) nice project!

I wonder :huh::D

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Excellent! Step one is to reduce weight. Everything out. Literally cut out panels unless they are really really neccessary. Swap glass for plastic. Scrape off sound deadening, remove any comfort options, any waterproofing stuff, any wet weather stuff except front wipers. You are aiming for 400kg plus engine & box. Personally i never mess with rear suspension on a front wheel drive car. Dump the interior, all of it. All the plastic must go. Lightweight seat needed. Small lightweight fuel tank. One tip is to get a donor track car with all the gear that has been totalled, which makes things like seats, belts, extinguishers etc cheaper. Aim for a class, so you can find people with the same category of car that you could race... lots of rules and really handy to talk to someone else in the same class (maybe a different car) which will give you a clear aim of what goal to reach. Have fun, it's great... 

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Thanks for the feedback guys!! Yeah first thing was weight reduction, the interior is trashed so straight into the skip!! I like the idea of finding a crashed track car and taking the bits out!! 

First is to get it running properly!! 

Thanks Sam 

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12 hours ago, cj1 said:

400kg!? 

Yeah. i got a mk2 golf track car down to 390 without battery, engine and box. Dry. Its only sheet metal and some suspension bits...

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4 hours ago, mk2 said:

Yeah. i got a mk2 golf track car down to 390 without battery, engine and box. Dry. Its only sheet metal and some suspension bits...

Impressive. Don't think that kind of number is realistic for the Lupo though. 

Interesting thread if you have the time: 

 

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The first thing is weight reduction, anyone with some common sense knows you strip all the dead weight, and you can really go to town with a car you don’t care about/ need. So I’m thinking going balls to the walls and start grinding all the extra metal out as well?? Unsure how much I’ll get out but could be interesting to see how much I could get out?? 

Then will be some basic handling/safety (race seats harness etc.) then power. I really want to get stuck into doing it myself so there will be a steep learning curve as I haven’t done much myself on previous cars! (Advantages of having your father-in-law head mechanic at a VW garage!!) 

thanks Sam

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a spot weld drill bit is your friend.

 

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So did a quick 30 mins work on it today, started from the back and working my way forward! Had a little help from my 1.5 yr old so things moved slow!! Managed to get the rear seats, seatbelts, boot lid, spare tyre etc and sub wiring removed.

Any progress helps!! 

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Hopefully I can get some more time on it soon and keep going!! 

If anyone needs any clips or screws etc give me a shout or there going in the skip! 

Actually surprised how clean/rot free it is. Someone has taken some care of it somewhere!! 

Thanks Sam

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Is it going to stay street legal? Otherwise do as rich says... and lots of angle grinding. 

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Street legal as in, to a track and back legal. So guess M.O.T etc. But I’m going to try and get waste metal out! 

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Aw, thats a shame. I was looking forward to you ripping out all the door seals, gas struts, seat belt bits, fuel tank, internal metal panels, entire dash, heater, steering column bits, spare wheel well, locks, window mechs, hinges, handles, roof liner and any little fitting you find...

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So you worried me a bit with the MOT as I never thought about it till then!! Been doing a bit of research... 

- With the rear seats gone no need for seatbelts so should be fine getting rid of them.

- All unnecessary interior trim will go, so long as the wiring loom is in good shape shouldn’t have a problem and exposing no sharp edges!

- Spare wheel can go, going to get a inflatable can like a GTi? 

- Headling will go as it does poop all for safety? 

Basically my plan will be consult Father-in-law about weither it will pass and go from there? See how mad I can go!! 

Thanks Sam

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You can change all the glass to 2mm lexan (i think it's called?) pop rivetted to the outside bodywork, except the windscreen which helps strengthen the bodyshell as it's bonded. String works well as a door handle... hinges and locks not needed as you only need one opening door. Weld shut. One front seat. No heating or fan. No convenience lights. Front grille. Metal behind bumpers. Rear wiper motor. Air bags. Horn switch, wiper switch and stalk. Steering adjuster. Door seals- just use a few corks strategically placed. Battery located in a position to give the car best weight distrubtion (put a weight in the seat, and weigh each wheel down force).....

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Looks promising, you don't need any sort of spare wheel/puncture kit to pass an mot. If it'll help you out ill acquire any useful unbroken screws/clips from you thank you :) 

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