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40 minutes ago, mk2 said:

One of my SDI's scraped through only because rear brake efficiency was just above the 16% limit. So that needs investigating... I bet it's stuck adjusters or maybe the compensator. Shoes/cylinders unlikely, as they're new within the last 2 years.

Has anyone ever failed on brake fluid since it came in a couple of years back???

That’s my worry. They need doing I’m sure the fluid hasn’t been changed for a while either. 
I think I have been pretty good at fixing most of the issues the car came with so I’m hoping for a clean bill of health. 

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UPDATE: 

Hes only gone and PASSED! NO ADVISORIES

 

Amazing as this is,, i would like to open the floor to explain the brake situation attached image.

 

It has new front discs and pads as you know... and i have got rear shoes and fluid to do... 

It appears the brakes are not working all that well to me ???

please can anyone shed some light???

 

aa.jpg

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Better than my SDI no.2 last friday... only 16% efficiency on the back parking brake. I need to investigate...

Mostly new components everywhere in the last couple of years. Even brake fluid. So not sure what the problem is, without a full tear down.

Passed though, like your's.

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3 hours ago, mk2 said:

Better than my SDI no.2 last friday... only 16% efficiency on the back parking brake. I need to investigate...

Mostly new components everywhere in the last couple of years. Even brake fluid. So not sure what the problem is, without a full tear down.

Passed though, like your's.

I got new rear brakes and fluid to go on. Do you think it will help or is this normal. 
 

For me having a car at 44% efficient, isn’t  something to be happy about?? 
 

I don’t get it. Is this a case of a lightbulb that gives off more heat than light lol 
 

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13 hours ago, Sarahs Lupo said:

I got new rear brakes and fluid to go on. Do you think it will help or is this normal. 
 

For me having a car at 44% efficient, isn’t  something to be happy about?? 
 

I don’t get it. Is this a case of a lightbulb that gives off more heat than light lol 
 

Those numbers look fine, your fronts are exactly the same as our Arosa Sport on it's last test and your backs are better. Bare in mind that your total braking efficiency is 73%. It's only a calculation based on the braking force generated and weight of the vehicle. The MOT limit is 50% for these cars so you're well above that.

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1 minute ago, RvB said:

Those numbers look fine, your fronts are exactly the same as our Arosa Sport on it's last test and your backs are better. Bare in mind that your total braking efficiency is 73%. It's only a calculation based on the braking force generated and weight of the vehicle. The MOT limit is 50% for these cars so you're well above that.

Thanks. That’s more reassuring. 

onto the next thing! Haha!

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UPDATE:

After fitting those lower suspension arms, and i did comment on how the old ones didnt look too bad.. well after driving the car all this week i can report that the car is soooo different,

its stiffer which it should be, better handling, like the wheel doesnt feel so sloppy

its a great improvement, which i didnt think it needed 

 

cant wait to buy the arb drop links now, which should tighten things up some more. Not sure i can replace much else! haha

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UPDATE:

i am getting an annoying intermittent starting issue. I cant predict when or where it might happen but i will try and describe what im seeing.

Firstly, i noticed my coolant guage on the dash, was dropping to 0 when driving... I checked this using the cheap app i have and the ecu reports it was at the correct temp of 90 (been very hot lately) 

didnt think anything of it....

then one day i pulled over to the side of the road, turnt my engine off to let some horses go by... couldnt turn it back on.. there were no warning lights on the dash, all electrics work, lights etc... but just wouldn't start. made a weird like churning noise like slow but wouldn't burst into life.. try that 3 times then nothing. 

managed to get some jumpers on it after 30 mins of waiting around and sprung back into life.. no issues.....without jump leads.. it still would just churn for a couple of times then nothing

i check my voltage regularly now. 14-14.2 when driving... key in ignition no turning it.. im measuring 13.5... the battery stays at 14 while driving over a period of 5 hours for example... 

all whilst this is going on the coolant guage is on then off and so on... i did read on here that "could" affect starting??

I have scanned the car for faults but nothing has come up.. VCDS i will check on the weekend but

can anyone give an opinion?? 

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Yup. It's most likely the ignition switch. Could also be the main bus power relay. Both very common problems in older Lupos (and other vdubs).

Diagnostics wont see it. It's basically a wiring fault and looks like the ignition key is being turned to off or just accessories on.

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1 hour ago, mk2 said:

Yup. It's most likely the ignition switch. Could also be the main bus power relay. Both very common problems in older Lupos (and other vdubs).

Diagnostics wont see it. It's basically a wiring fault and looks like the ignition key is being turned to off or just accessories on.

Any idea on how to diagnose further??? or a fix for this ??

 

thanks 

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1 hour ago, mk2 said:

Yup. It's most likely the ignition switch. Could also be the main bus power relay. Both very common problems in older Lupos (and other vdubs).

Diagnostics wont see it. It's basically a wiring fault and looks like the ignition key is being turned to off or just accessories on.

also, what would explain the faulty temp guage? or perhaps just a fluke. i said i read in another thread this can cause starting issues

 

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Yeah, when you switch on (ignition), the 12V power is connected through the key switch to various things, like the instrument cluster, radio, lights, interior fan and of course the engine system. So if driving during daylight, the only tjing you'll probably notice is the instruments. But chances are fan, and a few other things will have also stopped.

The ignition is also connected to (controls) the main power relay, which activates power to the hungry systems, that use lots of power. 

Could be a loose fuse, but unlikely.

You'll need to get to the back of the ignition switch and have a poke around. (Remove steering column cover- pics in clicking indicators how-to).

Perhaps pull ig switch out and give it a clean and service. If that doesn't sort it, you'll need to swap the relay over, behind the fuse panel. That should fix it, but it could be a wiring fault, although unlikely.

 

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4 minutes ago, mk2 said:

Yeah, when you switch on (ignition), the 12V power is connected through the key switch to various things, like the instrument cluster, radio, lights, interior fan and of course the engine system. So if driving during daylight, the only tjing you'll probably notice is the instruments. But chances are fan, and a few other things will have also stopped.

The ignition is also connected to (controls) the main power relay, which activates power to the hungry systems, that use lots of power. 

Could be a loose fuse, but unlikely.

You'll need to get to the back of the ignition switch and have a poke around. (Remove steering column cover- pics in clicking indicators how-to).

Perhaps pull ig switch out and give it a clean and service. If that doesn't sort it, you'll need to swap the relay over, behind the fuse panel. That should fix it, but it could be a wiring fault, although unlikely.

 

ok so first thing, if it happens again... and i turn the key to ignition... your saying the lights, radio etc... SHOULD NOT work ???? 

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Yeah. If you turn the ignition switch slowly clockwise from off (but not cranking), you'll notice ("ideally" if all ok!), that fan and radio come on, then ignition, lights, dash, wipers, squirter, rear defog, leccy windows etc. But during cranking many are disconnected to provide max power to starter (disconnected stuff is controlled by the relay). I think it's just 3 circuits from memory, all of which should be live when running. My guess is that one of them is intermittant for some reason. All the equipment is working nicely; it's simply a power feed problem.

Can be a pain to figure out when it only sometimes fails! We're here for moral support :)

 

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37 minutes ago, mk2 said:

Yeah. If you turn the ignition switch slowly clockwise from off (but not cranking), you'll notice ("ideally" if all ok!), that fan and radio come on, then ignition, lights, dash, wipers, squirter, rear defog, leccy windows etc. But during cranking many are disconnected to provide max power to starter (disconnected stuff is controlled by the relay). I think it's just 3 circuits from memory, all of which should be live when running. My guess is that one of them is intermittant for some reason. All the equipment is working nicely; it's simply a power feed problem.

Can be a pain to figure out when it only sometimes fails! We're here for moral support :)

 

i will do a video next time it happens! i was hoping it was an easy fix.

 

what about my coolant guage?

 

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Coolant gauge part of dash cluster...

But if it still goes weird and the car runs fine, then that could be a sign of the temp sensor misbehaving (another common vdub problem!).

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Just as I talk about it. It happens today! 
 

I have two videos so I hope it can help. 
 

The first is trying to start the car. Note the battery voltages so obviously it’s dropped. 

 

the second video is once my other car is connected by cables. 
Few seconds and the voltage shoots up and can be started straight away. 
( Excuse my dad yelling haha ) 

Can this be a case of a crap battery?? 
Or more sinister? 

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can't see the video

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Update: 

I have sourced a new battery for the blue beast. 
The CCA value is greater too which should help in starting it in the cold come the winter. 

the old one was from uni part and can’t even buy it now so it probably needed it at some point. 
 

I will see if this helps the issue. 

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so been 10 days and havent had any issues so far! Maybe the battery was on its way out! 

Not much else to report. still using the car - still have a full rear brake kit to go on.. 

 

just need some nice weather 

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On 8/21/2020 at 2:25 PM, Sarahs Lupo said:

"so been 10 days and havent had any issues so far!....."

Flash git!!!!

Ian

 

 

Edited by Ian Daly

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Just like to keep this updated:

 

Car hasnt changed just wonderfully reliable! 

Gonna do an oil change, filter, and replace the arb links tomorrow! Should make it sound a little less DERV! 

engine cover needs to go back on too just cant fathem how to do it .. i think some of the rubber bits are missing to locate it.. 

 

anyway i hope everyone else is doing fine

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