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6 hours ago, mk2 said:

Where did you find it?

Compilation: Autodata and ElsaWin

2 hours ago, Sarahs Lupo said:

The pdf doesn't work. 

Sorry, I do not know what does not work for you, but I made some screen shoots

1.thumb.jpg.7b1667ffebcefa3859c1d5ca2b80f12e.jpg

2.thumb.jpg.98892917fed58dade1ac3f2918079e6c.jpg

01.thumb.jpg.9471886c6450763a39d0913f7ddbb1d1.jpg

02.thumb.jpg.d7649b13c264c5555a2f9f9f3bb19376.jpg

 

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Also check this for EGR error

Check wiring between test box and connector for open circuit using current flow diagram.
Contact 1+ socket 1 + 2
Contact 2+ socket 61
Wire resistance: max. 1.5 ω

Additionally check wires for short to one another, to vehicle earth and to battery positive. Specification: ∞ω

For this check (and the following) you must have access to the ECU socket. Remove the cover marked with the red arrow and then pull the plug by pulling in the direction of the arrows

Screenshot_20191013_162228_com.android.gallery3d.jpg.261b068f6101b9c04f15a89644a69782.jpg.ec2fe6c93dfe0244da94de2b73cfce12.jpg

EDC15P-SOCKET.jpg.f9939f5f9c49603ab75d5d4f9019be1f.jpg

EGR can be visually checked if it works: when you accelerate strongly you can see how the rod moves

With the blue arrow I marked the flap on the intake that is not related to the error on the EGR, but works with it and may be to blame for the lack of power.

Remove the inlet pipe and observe the flap:

  • engine stopped: the flap must be wide open
  • engine start/idle: the flap must be closed and after about 10 minutes idling without touching the acceleration will open ( to close again you have to drive at higher speeds )
  • engine accelerated at over 3000 rpm: the flap must be wide open

This is the correct behavior of this flap

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The egr control solenoid is below the left blue thing in your pic. The pipe from it goes to the egr valve to the left of the dip stick. 

Where are you in the uk? One of us here maybe nearby... otherwise, might be a quick fix for an autoelectrician. 

You need to check the feed from K46 in that diagram. The power goes through the k46 switch contact which powers everything.

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19 minutes ago, mk2 said:

The egr control solenoid is below the left blue thing in your pic. The pipe from it goes to the egr valve to the left of the dip stick. 

Where are you in the uk? One of us here maybe nearby... otherwise, might be a quick fix for an autoelectrician. 

You need to check the feed from K46 in that diagram. The power goes through the k46 switch contact which powers everything.

I'm in trowbridge so not far from the M4 

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Just some more background. 

The parts numbered in my pic have been replaced with new ones. Nice and shiney so that gives me some confidence in the hardware. 

Screenshot_20191013_200306.jpg

Edited by Sarahs Lupo

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1 hour ago, lupo 1.7sdi said:

Also check this for EGR error

Check wiring between test box and connector for open circuit using current flow diagram.
Contact 1+ socket 1 + 2
Contact 2+ socket 61
Wire resistance: max. 1.5 ω

 

Ok sorry for the idocy but how can I test this???

I use my red probe on the contact 1 of the egr connection, and then stick my black probe into the ECU area on socket 1+2? 

Am I being dumb here ??? How can I do 1 + 2 at the same time in the ECU ha

I must be missing a few brain cells 

 

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12 minutes ago, Sarahs Lupo said:

How can I do 1 + 2 at the same time in the ECU

Sorry, it is the expression of manual.  Not at the same time but one at a time

 

16 minutes ago, Sarahs Lupo said:

I must be missing a few brain cells  

you have to be careful, it's irreversible :D

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2 hours ago, lupo 1.7sdi said:

Sorry, it is the expression of manual.  Not at the same time but one at a time

 

you have to be careful, it's irreversible :D

Ok so I will try contact 1 and socket 1 

Then I try contact 1 and socket 2.. 

That I can do. 

I will test tomorrow then. 

 

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21 hours ago, lupo 1.7sdi said:

Sorry, it is the expression of manual.  Not at the same time but one at a time

 

you have to be careful, it's irreversible :D

Lastly, do I need ignition on or off for this 

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Definitely not ignition on, before removing the plug from the ECU remove the minus terminal from the battery .

Basically you measure the continuity of some wires not the functioning of a component

Edited by lupo 1.7sdi
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Ok so ECU out, negative off. 

 

Stick my red probe into the 1 socket and then the black into the ecu part 1 and 2 and I'm getting 0.04 ohms. Pic attached to make sure I'm doing this right. 

Screenshot_20191015_175602_com.android.gallery3d.jpg

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0.04 ohms is good. wire is ok.

next..!

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18 hours ago, Sarahs Lupo said:

Ok I am trying to stick my multi meter into the ECU but the prongs are too thick. 

Any suggestions?? 

Thanks 

This is what is stopping me checking the rest of the connections on the ECU - my probes are too thick...  i need some needle like ones

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Tape a needle to them

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There's not enough voltage in the car to kill you.

Stop being a pussy.

Also I generally probe the back of the pins.

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33 minutes ago, Rich said:

There's not enough voltage in the car to kill you.

Stop being a pussy.

Also I generally probe the back of the pins.

Thanks for that I'll bear that in mind but just incase you didn't understand me,

1) You didn't answer my question. Which tape? 

2) I have never touched electrics before so unsure of the dangers of touching the battery for example 

3) I'm testing the ECU socket so not idea about the "back of the pins"??????

 

Appreciate the help. I will get to the bottom of this 

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As long as there is a physical connection it doesn't matter.

I'd say zip ties but it wouldn't hold.

 

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21 minutes ago, Rich said:

As long as there is a physical connection it doesn't matter.

I'd say zip ties but it wouldn't hold.

 

Thanks. I will see what happens tomorrow. 

I'll tape some needles on my probe. But I have very small cable ties too. 

 

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just an idea, since i have multiple codes that suggest open or short to ground.. 

is there any common earth points i can check to see if they are the problem.

concentrating on each fault code and chasing the wire doesn't seem a good idea if they all are saying short to ground???? 

i took the battery off last night, and the battery tray. all looks good under it, so damp or rust. checkled the large earth cable that goes on the battery and at the metal work all looks good. so it cant be that.

just an idea is there any other common earth/ground points? 

 

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That wiring diagram shows you the places you could check... you can see how if a relay were faulty, large swathes of the loom are without power.

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24 minutes ago, mk2 said:

That wiring diagram shows you the places you could check... you can see how if a relay were faulty, large swathes of the loom are without power.

I'm having a hard time decifiering that pdf. 

I was going to check a common earth point between the error codes I have got. 

Can anyone read that diagram? 

Thanks as always 

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