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Hi Nacho  - The manifold was on the Lupo when I got it - yes those dbilas manifolds are very expensive. the previous owner said that it wasnt built that well & he had to do a lot of work tidying i

Thanks Guys Huibs rebuilt: The slightly rusty drive flange was replaced only a few months before they broke the lupo up. Threadlocked stainless bolts hopefully wont weld themselves

Been picking away at the Lupo half an hour here a couple of hours there. I have nearly reached bottom for parts being removed with only gear selector being the last thing to extract, everything around

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19 minutes ago, LR5V said:

Afraid not - these are alloy TT arms for my Mk5 daily, only a few posts ago I wasnt planning to make any changes

Famous last words to utter to one’s self if you are remotely into cars

”I’m keeping it standard....”


:D :) 


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On 10/20/2019 at 11:42 AM, LR5V said:


Mk5 Gti 2.0 DSG - 86k miles, fully stamped up service book, with the DSG box serviced 5k miles ago. Really high spec, even has a sunroof that apparently is rare 

Unfortunately it wasn't being used often enough, I am having some binding brake issues. Sadly the 18" monza's are reps. It has a 3" cat back stainless exhaust that is non-resonated - the pops & crackles are nice, especially with the GSG box, but its too noisy, it just drones on the motorway, so its booked in to get it changed to resonated. Only cosmetic issue is a crusty hatch - I picked up a really good replacement in the same Graphite blue - the colour is lovely...however in the rain it is the same colour as wet tarmac!



Small world - you bought my friends mk5 GTI. If I didn't have one already, I would have bought it. My dad bought one new in 2006 in Blue Graphite and its such a nice colour! I hope you enjoy it.

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  • 3 months later...

A VW tool T10073 finally popped up on Ebay, hopefully it is currently winging its way from Lithuania. 

More Mk5 stuff - sourced some very cheap calipers for £20, but the rub was they looked like they had been in a swamp. They both stripped down without brakages, one piston was very seized and the bleed valves came out with heat and penetrating fluid - this is the Ebay Add pics:



Hardest part was getting the powder coating off - tried brake fluid - nothing, Nitromors -didn't touch it - I had to source some industrial Starchem Synstrip, this worked but only took a bit off each time - very long process and didn't get the best condition caliper fully clean

The corrosion was really bad too, kept trying different stuff, but like the powder coating it wasnt shifting. Somewhere in my garage is the last of the stuff I used to clean up the gearbox - but I couldn't find it and didn't want to buy more. Digging around google, I found someone on youtube claiming caustic soda worked, found some Mr Muscle drain cleaner that also had caustic in it. in a sweety tub went caliper and drain cleaner - this is what happened:


took a good few goes but the corrosion fizzed off.

Took the trouble to file down the casting marks:


I chose to use Halfords red caliper paint, this wasn't great - took a lot of layers to cover the alloy, liked to drip and last FU from it was on reassembly I sprayed a bit of brake cleaner to remove some grease and it started to dissolve! 

For the amount of effort the result was OK, paint let it down:



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I've been trying to figure out how braking efficiency calculations work, you know the print out you get with your MOT. It's somehow based on axle weight and friction breakaway when you reach lock up. But even after I changed calipers or uprated the discs, the MOT result is always the same. I wish someone could explain the science behind it....

Those calipers look great by the way 👍🏻

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  • 1 year later...
On 11/10/2018 at 3:31 PM, LR5V said:

Currently waiting on replacement Sachs clutch kit to be sent from I assume France - it is £1 more expensive than the ECP LUK rubbish - all covered in my seemingly never ending clutch thread!

Those 2 gearbox bolts at the bottom of the sump have been a complete PITA for me. I don't know if its the KAM exhaust manifold taking up a lot more space than standard, but I have to drop the manifold to take them out. As I have been playing hokey-cokey with the gearbox & sump those 2 bolts have pee-peed me off for the last time.

The weird thing is the tread in the gearbox is full depth and open on the other side - its crying out for stud conversion, took a bit of measuring and at the cost less than £2:


Like the bolts, I can now undo the nuts with a spanner and if the manifold is too tight the stud can be wound in from gearbox side - using 5mm allen key head - to get the nut off  - no more dropping the manifold. 

Original bolts are 8.8 tensile, couldn't find 8.8 grub screws and nuts, these are 14.9 and going to stud conversion I have greater clamping force.

Good afternoon :)


Please can I be a pain in the proverbial (again :blush:) and ask what the end to end length of the grub screws/studs you used is, and are they M10 x 1.50 pitch?


Any information greatly appreciated :thumbup:



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Don't get me started on ECP bits.


Everyone, please do not buy any ECP bits, unless they are a branded product. Just don't.

Yesterday I replaced a ECP brand steering rack inner ball joint on a Polo that I had fitted only 13 months ago. 14k miles. Such a lot of work for so little reward. OMG. Not happy.

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