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Found 13 results

  1. Just trying to find out what year onwards the 1.4s cars became fly by wire rather than cable. Or if someone could please tell me what mine is that would be even more useful, it's a 53 plate. Thanks in advance for any responses πŸ‘
  2. Hi guys, I just turned 17 and got myself a Lupo 1.4 16V, have been driving it on a provisional until I pass my test, already done some work to it since it had been left for a couple of years in a garage. However I've noticed that my gas pedal sits at about half the height of my brake/clutch pedals, if I put my foot under it and lift the pedal it will freely lift to the same height as the others, but as soon as I let go it drops back down to halfway. I was thinking it is the throttle cable? Been told that the throttle is electric though so I'm not too sure how to go about it, any suggestions? Cheers, Chris
  3. Hi guys Been having an issue with the lupo the last few times ive done long drives. When I'm on the motorway cruising the car seems to decide to stop accelerating and its like full throttle isnt even enough to sustain speed it kind of stutters a bit as it slows down Today I was on the motorway and it was like the thing was dying the way a remote control car goes when the batteries run out? Pulled over and left it for 5 minutes and then it was good enough to get home Ive seen people say its something to do with the brake sensor not working correctly so the throttle won't work and others say its due to timing belt stretch so the engine management goes into a "limp mode" to protect the engine? I was wondering if anyone more experienced than me would know what could be going on? Thanks
  4. So i have this fault, which is to do with the throttle body. The issue i have is that that the trottle body is brand new, and has been fitted to a recently fitted engine. Twice in the past three days, the EPC light has come on and this code has come up, and the car has gone into limp mode, even though it is a brand new throttle body. When the throttle body was fitted, it was adjusted with VagCom by the mechanic, and the code came straight back up, but it drove fine. Does anyone have any ideas as to what this could be? Because its driving me insane worrying about when ill lose power next! Thanks in advance, Myles.
  5. Hi all, I have a problem with my 2001 (51, petrol auto) Lupo where it starts to judder/vibrate/shake/stutter after about 20 seconds of idling on a cold engine. It keeps stuttering for about 1 minute before it stalls. I can stop it stalling by holding the RPM's at 1500-2000 until the engine warms up (3-4 minutes). It's annoying and happens every single morning even when it's not that cold outside. I've heard it might be: Coil Packs Air Intake Throttle Valve Spark Plugs Throttle Body I'm not technical *at all* and have been to local garages who have charged me Β£30 for an inspection and said "we'll need to keep it overnight and test fit new replacements of all those parts before we can make a judgement" - which they want Β£100+ for. Any help/ideas will be greatly appreciated. Kasim
  6. Hi, I have a golf 1.4 16v 75bhp, (tried posting on golf forums but got no help at all) its an x reg, it has a polo 1.6gti throttlebody, injectors and inlet manifold.Also has an induction kit, uprated HT leads & a scorpion backbox (if that matters) At the minute the air/fuel mix is all to cock (i think)it wont rev past 2-3k with foot flat to floor, but it will gradually go past 3k if you gently press it then you can floor it and it will happily rev to the limiter. Also if you try to floor it at 2k revs it sort of misfires and sounds like its backfiring through the intake Does it just need a re-map or should I try putting the 1.4 injectors back in and removing the induction kit, because i still have all the spare parts. Cheers If it does need a remap where is the best place to get one?
  7. Hi Have listed this in other model specific Lupo forum but realise it should be here My Lupo died at TL. Battery flat because of car lights and trying to start. disconnected and recharged battery, left terminals touching 24hrs. Errors 17950 throttle body & 17978 immobiliser. Taken air filter off, checked wiring connections (a little), fully recharged battery again now ONLY 17950 throttle body error code BUT car still always starts and immediately stops. Can the throttle body error cause immobiliser to kick in as it seems this is why the car stops. Thinking of either cleaning throttle body (never done) and/or replacing ( it as quick solution) ANY ideas and or friendly vagcom owner to local Bagshot Surrey. Help Rick
  8. Right, i've just bought an Arosa sport Mk2 (arosabinns ex-car) and im having some problems with the throttle, it does NOT rev at all. Put the foot down and all it does is squirt a bit of fuel and fluctuate. The butterfly valve in the throttle body does NOT move at all. I have removed the body and plugged it into my Mk1 to test it and the valve SEEMS to operate perfectly on the other car. I have tested the wiring according to the manual and all seems ok: 3.3.2 Test processDetach the 6-contacts connector from the throttle valve control unit -arrow- .Measure the resistance of the throttle valve activator between contacts 3+5. Target value: 3...200 Ξ©the target value is not reached: Replace the throttle valve control unit -J338- .the target value is reached: Test the voltage supply of the throttle valve control unit andthe wiring to the control unit β‡’ page 70 . the voltage supply and the wiring are OK:Replace the engine control unit β‡’ page 104 . Detach the 6-contacts connector from the throttle valve control unit.– To test the voltage, connect the multimeter to contacts 2+6 of the connector, using the auxiliary leads of the -V.A.G. 1594 A- .– Switch on the ignition. Target value: 4.5 V min – Switch off the ignition.– To test the voltage, connect the multimeter to contact 2 of the connector and earth.– Switch on the ignition. Target value: 4.5 V min – Switch off the ignition.I have scanned with VCDS and this is the log file: Thursday,06,June,2013,12:47:59:10074VCDS Version: Beta 11.3.0Data version: 20110801 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Chassis Type: 6H - Seat ArosaScan: 01 02 03 08 15 17 19 25 35 56 VIN: VSSZZZ6HZ3R004889 Mileage: 175420km/109000miles-------------------------------------------------------------------------------Address 01: Engine Labels: 036-906-034-APE.lbl Part No: 036 906 034 BA Component: MARELLI 4LV 3410 Coding: 00011 Shop #: WSC 06441 VCID: 52AF7E7BB1CB VSSZZZ6HZ3R004889 VWZ1Z0B2181942 10 Faults Found:17989 - Throttle Actuator (J338): Basic Setting Not Performed P1581 - 35-00 - - 17962 - Throttle Actuator (J338): Conditions for Basic Settings not Met P1554 - 35-00 - - 17978 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer P1570 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction P1545 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent17950 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187): Implausible Signal P1542 - 35-00 - - 17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction P1545 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent17973 - Throttle Actuator (J338): Lower Stop not Reached P1565 - 35-00 - - 17952 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187): Signal too Large P1544 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent17580 - Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle Actuator (G188) Signal too Low P1172 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent16885 - Vehicle Speed Sensor: Implausible Signal P0501 - 35-10 - - - IntermittentReadiness: 1010 0101 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 6X0-907-379.lbl Part No: 6X0 907 379 B Component: ABS 30 IE CAN V004 Coding: 05603 Shop #: WSC 06441 VCID: 43814B3F7EB1 No fault code found. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------Address 15: Airbags Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.lbl Part No: 1C0 909 605 Component: 0S AIRBAG VW51 0H 0004 Coding: 12371 Shop #: WSC 06441 VCID: E1CD21B7446D 1 Fault Found:00588 - Airbag Igniter; Driver Side (N95) 32-10 - Resistance too High - Intermittent -------------------------------------------------------------------------------Address 17: Instruments Labels: None Part No: 6H0 920 900 E Component: KOMBIINSTRUMENT RB4 V02 Coding: 00441 Shop #: WSC 00001 VCID: 2759FFAFEAC9 No fault code found. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------Address 25: Immobilizer Labels: 6X0-953-257.lbl Part No: 6X0 953 257 Component: IMMO 0008 Coding: 00001 Shop #: WSC 00000 VCID: FDF57DC7D8D5 VSSZZZ6HZ3R004889 VWZ1Z0B2181942 2 Faults Found:01176 - Key 07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent01176 - Key 65-10 - Unauthorized - Intermittent -------------------------------------------------------------------------------Address 35: Centr. Locks Labels: 1C0-962-258-III.lbl Part No: 1C0 962 258 AB Component: 13 Zentr.Verriegel. 0003 Coding: 00017 Shop #: WSC 69002 VCID: 67D9BFAF2A49 2 Faults Found:00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent01131 - Control Circuit for Turn Signals 25-10 - Unknown Switch Condition - Intermittent End --------------------------------------------------------------------- Sometimes if i leave the throttle body unplugged for a couple of hours and plug it back in it will start and drive pretty much perfectly.. then it stalls and reverts to not working. I can NOT perform a throttle body alignment because it says 'ERROR' when i try.The engine on this car has been replaced approximately 10K ago with an ANW/AXP engine, The ECU is the standard one i believe.I took the car to the garage to try and get it sorted but the owner seems to think there is no possible way to get the car running with that engine/ECU. I was told to scrap it for Β£150 and that i could get an identical working model for Β£600.WHAT A LOAD OF HORSE SH*T! All of this leads me to think that this is an ECU problem?Does anybody have any suggestions what i can try to resolve this?If it is the ECU (knowing my luck it will be) how would i go abouts switching/replacing/repairing it? Do i need a virgin unit or can i get a second hander?Should the new ECU be for the original (AUB) engine or the new (AHW/AXP) engine?Would i be able to get an aftermarket ECU to get the car to work and would this be a better option? I apologise if this has been a MAHOOSIVE post and nobody understands any of it, i dont think i do myself I'm based about 15 miles north of newcastle if anyone can recommend any garages that would take it on? Any more information just ask and ill do my best to retrieve it Dan
  9. as the title says im looking for somebody with vagcom or similar software in stockport as ive been doing some work on my engine and now it wont start and there's no codes so i think its because the throttles been disconnected and needs realigning, id pay you for it or buy you a crate your choice incase you need to know its a lupo 2004 1.4 16v sport
  10. Hi all, new to the forum Have a Canica Blue Arsoa Sport (is my girlfriends) Yesterday I did the job of stripping down the EGR and Throttle Body to clear out the 10 years of grime and build up. Ran vagcom adaption of EGR and throttle and OMG... its like a different beast. Now we have way more bottom end, you can really hear the grunt of the induction with increased throttle response and it is pulling nicely from 2000 rpm. I was honestly shocked how much difference it made to the car as it must have been way down on torque. This is a job that is really worth doing!!! The next job will be to strip down the intake manifold and clean out all the engine breathers will post a little how to if I have time.
  11. The Problem My brother in Law just got a Lupo 1.4 Sport 16v, AFH engine, Cable throttle. The revs keep dropping on it. Try and hold it at a constant RPM and it will be fine for 4 or 5 seconds then the revs will drop. Sometimes they drop lower than other times. Sometimes they come back up to where they were, sometimes they don't and it goes to idle level. Relavent History Aparently the guy who sold the car said it had had a new Throttle Body fitted at some point. What I have tried First Attempt Straight away I noticed quite a bit of oil in the air filter, coming in from the crank breather pipe. So I thought that might be the problem. Cleaned out the breather pipe as it was blocked with thick mayo, then cleaned out the crank breather filter/seperator box as that was blocked too. Then I noticed oil leaking from the underside of the intake manifold, so I opened that up and cleaned it all out and re-sealed with some high temp silicone gasket. While it was apart I noticed that the sensor on the left side of the Intake manifold (opposite side to the Throttle body) was covered in oil, so I sprayed a bit of electrical contact cleaner on it. I also cleaned out the inside of the Throttle body, just the butterfly area, I did not open up the black cover. So I put it back together and the problem was still there. Second Attempt I have mechanic friend who has just got an expensive new Snap-On fault scanner so I borrowed that and pulled the codes. But neither of us really know how to use it other than to pull engine codes and turn off engine/service lights. It came back with: 00519 Intake Manifold Pressure Sensor (G71) Open Circuit / Short With Power Intermittant 00518 Throttle Position Sensor (G69) Open Circuit / Short With Power Intermittant 0530 Throttle Position Sensor (G88) Open Circuit / Short With Power Intermittant 00523 Intake Air Temp Sensor (G42) Open Circuit / Short With Power Intermittant 00282 Throttle Position Actuator (V60) Output Open Intermittant There was no engine light on, so I thought that perhaps these were old codes from when the old throttle body failed. So I hoped that cleaning them might sort the problem and I could also see if any of the codes came back. So I cleared the codes and the problem was still there. I was testing it while parked on the drive for about 40 mins and none of the fault codes have come back. Third Attempt It had a function on the scanner to 'Reset Throttle Body' so my mate tried it. Anyway it did its thing, we tried it and the problem was completely different and much worse!! It wouldn't hold stable revs at all. So we did a code scan and it came back with: 01087 Basic Setting Not Performed So I went and googled that while he kept trying the 'Reset Throttle Body' function and did all the actuator tests on the scan tool. When I came back out the code had gone and the problem was back to its original state. Phewww What Can I Do Next? - Can I open up the black plastic part of the Throttle Body and clean out anything in there? Anything else? after that I'm stumped....... Please Help!!
  12. hi everybody. was going along the motorway yesterday and my accelerator just hit the floor. recovery bloke came and it turns out the throttle cables snapped. always thought mine was elecrtric though cos there is no wire in the throttle body, but when you look up past the pedals i can see a snapped cable. got one on order from vw to collect tomorrow but does anyone have any clue of replacing it?? thanks! chris
  13. After much thought about exactly how much power I want from my loop I decided.. I want lots more!! So the small power increses have got to be flogged to fund the next idea! Here I have a Polo 16v afh inlet manifold and throttle body, both in excellent condition with no running/ idle issues (common with these throttle bodies!) I include the fuel rail, injectors & fuel pressure regultor all working 100% and quite important to run along side with. Direct bolt on replacement for 16v lupo as a performance enhancement, easy to fit, I done it and I'm female and self taught! Noticable power gain, will be a more effecient gain if once fitted, having the vehicle then remapped
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