Adamlarge

Basically my car suddenly stopped working, if you go to fire it it cranks and does a very short burst as though it's about to fire but cuts out, I've had a few mechanics on it but none could find the problem, it's been in vw all week and they've finally put it down to the ecu, if you programme the immo to the ecu it will start but come back to it 5 minutes later and it will have forgotten it and need programming again, What I'm wondering is whether I could get a donor car which I've already sourced at a breakers, take the ecu, immo, transponder chips out of it and put them in mine and it just work with no programming needed and if will I need anything else aswell? Vw want £700-800 for the part and fitting which I can't afford expecially on top of the £300 I owe them for diagnostics Any help is much appreciated!

still no luck with it, been waiting on the mechanic, he has been to have a look at it properly and is now getting vagcom but hes had trouble getting it working on his laptop, hes had the ecu open because i noticed after taking the scuttle off that the connections had water on and he said it did have a very slight water mark but its cleaned up alright and might not be a problem, he also thinks the tb might need realligning which i suggested at the begginning because ive had it off and cleaned it, he reconed i wouldnt need to reallign it at first because he has a point that it would adapt itsel which it would when its runningf, but the problem i see with that, it wont have chance to adapt if it cant even start, on the plus side ive bought it some rota flashbacks and it looks so much better which has cheered me up about it haha

still after somebody to get vagcom on it, been waiting on the mechanic thats bn helping me for a while now, just want my car running again, theres other stuff i need to do but theres no point until its working,

i think because he has always worked on any car that came into the garage he might not have come across many vw's with an immobiliser problem so is just comparing it to other cars which wouldnt start at all, waiting for vag com to arrive then hes coming to hook it up to that and run some proper tests, reallign my tb and some other bits, so far weve only had a code reader that will tell you the codes and erase them and no programming, and other than that only been able to do manual checks of things, hopefully have it sorted soon il let everybody know whats going on, like i said i dont want to argue with him from in inexperienced point of view on it because he might refuse to help me then so il let him do what he wants to do with it, wel get there eventually

Yeah I might have to the mechanic is going to come and have a proper look at it on Sunday I think he's been too busy recently so hasn't had chance he recons he will get it going but I do still think it's the throttle body needs realigning but he assures me it's not that an it will realign itself but I can't put a valid argument to him when he is the mechanic at the end of the day and he does know his stuff he's worked with proper racing teams, il wait and see what his outcome with it is and go from there, il make sure to let people know of the outcome and what the problem was when It's fixed

and now thinking about it i have a constant spark and i have fuel getting to the rail, i havent been able to test the injectors but the spark plugs have fuel on so they must be working so i think that kind of rules out the immobilser, this car is driving me mad now not being able to figure out what the problem is

sorry for the late reply i havent been on for a while, the mechanic i know said its not immobilser issues because it wouldnt start at all. although everything ive heard otherwise says the engine starts and cuts out straight away on vw's, i dont want to go against his word though because i know he is a really good mechanic, served the trade 22 years so far, ive just been changing the bits and testing them as he says to but he hasnt got chance to come and have a proper look at it yet, i personally think its either my throttle body because ive had it off to clean needs realigning but he said the ecu will automatically adjust itself according to how wlls the cars running to ensure it does run well as with every other component, but the problem i see with that is the throttles out of line in the first place meaning i cant get it started for it to realign itself. i think whats happening is the tb isnt allowing enough air in so i think its starting off the air which is already in the manifold and then is being starved after a second because theres no more air getting in. although i did suspect the key reader on the barrel which if the mechanic is wrong is also a good call, im having trouble finding somebody in stockport with vagcom id prefer to avoid a garage doing it theyd charge loads and i know it doent take much to realign the tb its just a few clicks after plugging it into the car and they charge a fortune for it

as the title says im looking for somebody with vagcom or similar software in stockport as ive been doing some work on my engine and now it wont start and there's no codes so i think its because the throttles been disconnected and needs realigning, id pay you for it or buy you a crate your choice incase you need to know its a lupo 2004 1.4 16v sport

Yeah it was a but of an essay sport about that haha I've tried the spare, still won't work

Forgot to mention I have done a service on it replacing the oil, oil filter and plugs and it was only after the oil change that when I went to start it to cycle the new oil round that it wouldn't and I have reset the service light, at first I put a little too much oil in it was just over the dotted area on the dipstick by a 2-3 mm which I drained out some of the oil and it's now at about 1 third of the way into the dotted area, I did try to start it with too much in before realising, and te new plugs have a fair bit of black crap all over them although 2 and 4 are clean

I've posted recently about my lupo refusing to start or had a friend who's a mechanic helping me out trying to figure it out and up to now we've replaced a couple of bits we thought it could've been and it hasn't fixed it, on ignition it will start straight away but cut straight out even if I keep my foot on the throttle, we checked for a spark on most the plugs and it seemed there was a constant spark so we've originally crooked off the immobiliser and went about the ignition so changed the coil pack as it was all cracked and coroded were as the ht leads weren't to bad so cleaned them up and still had no effect I noticed there was no brake lights so changed the brake light switch they now work and cleaned the throttle body which has been unplugged aswell as the battery, no codes have been coming up on the code reader although we don't have vagcom it's more of a handheld universal reader(autel geniscan can obdii), I've just checked again for a spark and this time there is one for the first couple of seconds and then nothing which wasn't happening before so now I'm back to the immobiliser, does that sound although it could be the immobiliser and how would I go about testing and fixing it I have tried the spare key and that's doing the same thing although there's still no codes? Any help would be much appreciated as the mechanic can't help me at the minute as he's busy and I don't have much money to be sending into a garage

the reason we concentrated on the coil, leads and plugs was that the mechanic thought it could be detecting a missfire so was cutting it out

sorry for the late reply i havent been on for a few days, still havent figured it out i have tried the spare key but that hasnt worked either, ive had a mechanic check over it for me and up to now have found anything that could definately be it as he can only help me out when hes free which isnt that often and not for very long when he can, up to now replaced the coil pack as it was corroded and cracked all the way around cleaned up the ht leads as they werent too bad, changed plugs, tested for codes and only 2 came up while testing everything to do with throttle pedal position circuit a and b one low input one high input, on the freezeframe the coolant level is apparently -40 f so coolant tempt sensor will be getting replaced, we think it could be the crankshaft position sensor but still need to find it to it to test it, and i also noticed yesterday the brake lights werent working so that switch has gone, ive heard a couple of people say the brake light switch failing caused the car not to start is that true? i could imagine it could be as it would be dangerous driving without them so the car wont allow you to even start it? no more codes have come up since

it cranks and for a second fires up but will cut out straight away it is really trying to start because it kicks in quite powerful but is cut out for some reason and the car shudders wile the engine winds down again

i have had it disconnected and gave it all a clean but still didnt start il give it another go though