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oVerboost

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Everything posted by oVerboost

  1. £250 to have yours refurbed, if to a decent standard, isn't that bad of a price IMO. Will add value to the vehicle if you ever come to sell it, and make it much better looking (you'll be amazed how different immaculate wheels can make a car look).
  2. Depends what is wrong with yours, but you can buy the outer skin kit on Ebay... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Polo-Lupo-Seat-Ibiza-Arosa-Open-air-fabric-sunroof-top-cover-outer-skin-Kit/223048170756?hash=item33eeb4fd04:g:Vl0AAOSwopRYmbVp
  3. Is it 5 or 6 speed? If it's the 6 speed, then you'll need the Lupo GTi specific shafts, if it's the 5 speed then I THINK the Polo GTi ones will work. I bought some off ebay recently from a guy breaking a 6 speed to keep in the garage in case I ever need them, then I don't have the stress of trying to source some. There are also some new ones listed on eBay, but check carefully as a lot of the part numbers listed with these aren't for the 6 speed versions.
  4. You won't need a new engine if the gearbox is the only thing at fault. Ebay have numerous 1.0 gearboxes for sale usually, just search for one for a Lupo if you have no joy with an Arosa specific one, and worth buying a new clutch kit to install at the same time as they swap the gearbox.
  5. BMC Carbon induction kit with cold air feed (not pictured). Removed from a Lupo GTi but will fit many vehicles as you can buy different silicone joiner hoses. Approx 6 months use in excellent condition. £125 collected from Plymouth, Devon.
  6. Probably doubtful, advert was from 7 months ago without any update on the post.
  7. Do you want it actual wide bodied or bolt on flared arches? I think the reason there isn't a kit is because the Lupo doesn't really lend itself to that look, I'm yet to see one that actually looks good as the shape of the arches on the non GTi models especially really don't work for a wide arch look.
  8. Depends on the wheel design, but yeah measure from the most outward point of the wheel.
  9. Chances are if you've got coilovers you probably have at least some negative camber anyway, as that usually happens when you lower a car so you should be fine with either 15/20 or 20/20.
  10. I would say you want 20mm fronts and 25mm rears, but double check to be sure. Is your car lowered? Any front camber adjustments done? This is mine on 8x15 ET35 wheels, with 15mm fronts and 20mm rears and front wheels with a touch of negative camber and the rear arches trimmed to stop them catching with 185/45/15 tyres as a comparison...
  11. Looks great! What information / parts are you wanting to get?
  12. It was on the Hyundai around 8 years ago... It was on the Porsche until last month or so lol - the DVLA have certainly had their money out of me for registration transfers and retentions. It's also been on many other cars over recent years including an Elise, another Boxster S, a few Clio 182's and a Focus RS Mk1.
  13. I did consider an Up GTi before I bought my Lupo, but similarly the long wait after ordering, and the lack of demonstrators was enough to make me revert to my original plan, and currently I'm not regretting it at all. The mrs has a Seat Mii FR (company car from work - Seat main dealer) which I've driven many times, and they're decent enough little cars, just need that extra bit of power that the GTi would have. What will be interesting is whether there is much room for tuning on the Up GTi models, and whether long term it has any issues with running more power without internal upgrades. I
  14. Do you know what offset the wheels are? As this will help determine exactly what size spacers you will need. You can also use the willtheyfit website to enter wheel/tyre/offset information. Alternatively if you have the wheels fitted, you can measure the distance from the centre of the wheel to where you want the wheel to sit with a tape measure, and order up the spacers you need mm wise.
  15. Perhaps I should have worded it different, there is a chance that not all the flush will come out, and can potentially cause issues if enough of it stays in the engine. I've worked in the motor trade my whole life, and seen a few issues. Whether or not it does any harm to the engine is up to chance, but there is a risk, it's more a problem with new engines when you try to claim warranty and they test the oil, only to find that there is flush in there and they won't then pay out. But on that basis, I've never risked it personally, and as long as the engine is healthy there is no need. If
  16. Modified the rear arches, painted the calipers so they are now bright red again and adjusted the suspension again and gave it a good clean and took a few photos at a car meet this evening...
  17. You'll probably be okay, I see a few cars like this everyday, but if you don't want any potential hassle it's worth changing lol... but a lot of the online places/ebay you have to physically type the space when writing the reg. If you did, message them and get them to send another set out to you as it's their mistake.
  18. You MAY get pulled over for them plates if you get a jobsworth copper as there's no space between the LD55 and EMX. Car looks really nice though, and good progress so far too.
  19. Agree with what Rich says, stay clear of a flush... It never all comes out, and will degrade the oil that you then put into the engine. As long as the oil comes out smoothly and isn't all gunky you won't need a flush, just get it warm so it flows out quicker. Do you have a copy of the emissions failure you can post up, as that may indicate what the issue is (lambda sensor is common).
  20. Looks like a great example, and a brilliant first car as well. Good choice! Low mileage and no rust will also ensure future re-sale value if you do decide to change/upgrade in a year or two but much nicer than my first car which was a Nova 1.2 saloon lol.
  21. Mine had a similar issue on my GTi last weekend, I gave up and bought a new one from Euro Car Parts with their online discount, wasn't the cheapest option but the design of that one was miles better than the original VW part as it didn't use plastic, all the runners and ends etc are metal so won't break in the future and get seized up. Literally operates like a rocket ship compared to the old one, and compared to the drivers one which hopefully still has at least some life left in it. Cleaning the bushes etc will only last so long really, and can leave you somewhere with the glass stuck d
  22. Little update, ordered some new 8x15 custom wheels and had to wait for them to arrive (imported) then had them built up with new 185/45/15 tyres all round. Adjusted the suspension, adjusted the camber (rear shims not fitted currently) and this is how it now sits...
  23. No the engine was bought partially built but not fitted when I got it, then sourced the inlet and had it mapped at a local specialist. All the receipts went with the car
  24. It had the Corrado 2.9 in it from a low mileage Storm model, Schrick inlet, cams, head work, injectors and loads more stuff. It was a good few years ago (6?), and I cannot remember the full spec (let alone what revs it was at sorry lol) annoyingly as it's all on my old PC. I will add, these are previous cars. Currently I only have the Lupo (and a Porsche Boxster that I am selling as it never gets used), most of them were sold on to fund various other projects/house purchases/improvements. A fair few with regret though
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