Sausage

The injector loom is inside the head and so prone to breakdown due to heat and oil stress. A new loom will probably be the answer.

My aluminium mount post has broken so the mirrors currently taped on to it to hold it in position. It's electric, but i think the metal mount part of the manual mirrors is likely the same (correct me if you know different) So basically if you have a battered tatty mirror with a good metal mount post then let me know, as long as the metal part is good. Passenger side. Cheers

If you have abs or srs it might (might, but i doubt it) cause issues, otherwise as said already they would be fine. If you want taller gearing and lower revs then put the 14s on the front, you'd need to check clearance is it's lowered though.

http://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=185&aspect=55&diameter=14&wheelwidth=6&offset=43&width2=195&aspect2=50&diameter2=15&wheelwidth2=7&offset2=35#content They will stick out a bit further according to that and be slightly taller rolling diameter. 45 profile is closer to standard than 50, but if the car isnt lowered much they will probably be fine.

what engine is it? sounds like a diesel. you could try and narrow it down some more by listening to it thru with about 4 foot of hose. Find where it's loudest. if you think it's the camshaft, try listening thru the hose on the top of each cylinder on the cam cover. You could also take the auxiliary belt off and start the engine briefly and see if that made it go away. Obviously be very careful with moving pulleys and belts though eh.....

No idea why you did a diy hone job as your bores looked perfectly good with proper cross hatching before, now you have bores with random cross hatching and probably variable sizes. Did you measure them with a very accurate bore gauge before and after? or at the least gap the old rings before and after? Otherwise a nice project.

^ what he said ^ check the fat earth to body and the the other one to the engine for starters..., ideally remove, clean up and then tighten up.

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/polo-mk3/power_unit/4-cyl._diesel_engine_mechanics/enginecrankshaft_group_pistons/dismantling_and_assembling_engine/removing_and_installing_ribbed_belt/ Aux belt has a tensioner on it so isnt manually tensioned. If its slipping its probably just a worn belt.

Auxiliary belt slipping? if these are tensioned manually on the alternator then tighten it up a bit. Do it right, not too tight as that makes other problems. if the tension is right and it isnt slipping, then you could remove the auxiliary belt and start the engine and listen for the noise just to eliminate some things quickly. (i.e cambelt or auxiliary belt side of things) You can do a visual inspection of the cambelt condition by taking the top half of the cover off i would think. is that 30K total miles or since you owned it? Cambelts have a time / mileage interval whichever is sooner, so if it's old but low mileage you should still change it. Water pump is probably driven off the cambelt, (i havent looked at SDI engine yet) they can screech when the bearings are shot. When you are looking at the cambelt condition have a squint down to the water pump and see if it looks recent.

I dont know about the mk 4 pipe, but I think it's part number 6X0611763C http://vagfans.info/EN/volkswagen/RDW/LU/Lupo%20-%20Lupo%203L%20TDI/2001/231/R/611/611030/brake-pipe-brake-hose VW main dealer should do them. Mine also broke changing rear cylinder on TDI, I couldnt flare the end of the factory pipe with my tool as it was too hard to shape, so i made a copper one up instead.

You can get some part numbers off here: http://vagfans.info/EN/volkswagen/RDW/LU/Lupo%20-%20Lupo%203L%20TDI/2002/231

Fixed that for you, TD pro race 1.2 13x7 et 25 fit perfect, no spacers needed. Higher offsets will cause issues with the strut bolts touching on the wheel rim me thinks in which case spacers will be needed. I was wondering if the torque on mine was kept lower to preserve the gearbox / clutch myself.

Money was the answer to that. it would have cost the best part of £100 to revert to stock and have a k n filter in there. I couldnt justify that on a car this cheap. Total spend so far including the car is just over £400.

Take one Ebay bargain new Renault 5 Turbo K&N filter.... £5 delivered!! it measures 229mm x 127mm if i remember right. Make a top and bottom to seal it in the housing. Secure with.... with cable ties! I did double up so two on each hole in the end. Buy 1 flexible 80mm air duct for £6.50 and hot glue some firm (kneeling pad stuff) foam in the end to reduce to a tight 60mm. Connect up to MAF. (fuel hoses are being replaced so wont be rubbing on the duct when that's done). Arch liner etc means it wont be visible anyway.... I should have cut out the bottom end cap in the shape of the filter casing instead of the round one i made and used long screws to secure it, I'll possibly do that at some point. I'll keep an eye on the air duct for holes but it will do for now. Not bad for £12 though.

Yes rustier than it looked in 1st pic. It's usually 10x what you see on the surface. There is no seam worth saving there is there , that can still be patch repaired though, but it will always look like it's been patched unless you have awesome skills. You need to have a real good look around the car and work out if it worth repairing or not. before getting bogged down fixing this corner.

I dont have any knowledge of the car sorry, it probably isnt the one i was thinking of anyway... The flattened seam i would not be cutting at all unless absolutely needed, just gradually bend / lever it back down into position and then wack it with a lump hammer and a flat chunk of wood to get it reasonably straight. hopefully it wont crack on you and it will just be cosmetic. if it cracks that will need welding as well. Any levering against the sill put some long wood there to spread the load otherwise you just dent the sill more. If it is beyond you then you could still do most of clean up / prep and get someone else to make and weld the patch in.

I'd have a close look at the passenger door seals and make sure the drain holes in the door bottom are clear. Same goes for the boot.

Very controllable and straight to bare metal in seconds

This is what i had in mind on a 5 inch grinder, (a handraulic wire brush wont hardly touch it):

if thats the 1.8t i think it is then i'd be bloody annoyed too if that wasnt disclosed. I'd just clean it all up with wire brush / flap wheel in an angle grinder, cut out the crap back to good metal, bend reshape the flattened seam and see what you've got. it probably just needs a small patch welded in, no point replacing the whole sill if that is all the rust there, but if the sills are badly mangled and dented then it might be worth doing. Are sills even available? Dents can be pulled with slide hammer, either welded or glued on.

The hanger will probably have a flared end and often needs a fair bit of effort to get it back out the rubber. (randomy nicked from interweb pic of exhaust hanger...) Unless it really loud then you wont get any problems with pc plod, but if you get pulled for lights or any other reason and they decide to give the car the once over then who knows.

a long as com 4 refers to your lead (with it plugged in otherwise it wont show up in the com port list) it will say "usb serial ch340" assuming it's the same lead as mine. Com port 1- 4 as VCDS only allows com ports 1 - 4. Mine didnt work straight away either lol

Device manager / com ports / USB serial ch340. make sure it's on COM 1 - 4. if it's 5 or more then double click it and click advanced tab and change it to 1 - 4 in the drop down list. You can up the baud rate of the port, try 38400, if any problems put it down lower. In VCDS (lite) under program options tab, make sure com ports match device manager and click test. sometimes it doesnt work 1st time so do it again. I have to unplug my lead and put it back in to make it work sometimes. You can mess with the baud rate there too, but baud rate 0 auto negotiates best connection anyway. Ignition must be on.

Thanks for the infos, easiest oil filter is on the tdi, it's a cartridge filter right on the front of the engine pointing up at you. Looking for a vacuum brake bleeder too btw.

Done my oil change the old school way of grovelling around on the floor LOL, good idea on the extractor though as lots of cars have undertrays these days and make oil changes a pain in the ass especially when the sump plug is alloy and has already been rounded off. looking at sealey tp69 or similar so far.