Sausage

Polo 1.4 tdi but it's going to be very similar: http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/polo-mk3/power_unit/3-cylinder_diesel_engine/engine_cylinder_head_valve_gear/cylinder_head/removing_installing_and_tensioning_toothed_belts/ Special tools can be improvised... I'm guessing you have to adjust the height of the engine to get access to the mount bolts.

Get a KKL 409.1 lead to run VCDS they can be had cheap off ebay for a few bucks and an old laptop, you can read and clear your own fault codes then and save a lot of money. Post the error codes here if / when you have them.

After some specs for the front hubs and bearings. Pics if you have them too. Correct me if i am wrong, from what i have seen today front bearing inner diameter should be 35mm as the lupo front hub outer diameter is 35mm? Front bearing outer diameter and depth? Front hub drive shaft spline count and diameter? Front hub depth? etc etc. If you know what audi hubs, shafts, bearings brakes etc will go on with some persuasion to give 108 pcd then let me know. Cheers

You'd have to be doing a shitload of mileage to be able to notice the difference though as it would be small.

it's basically the same as running 195 50 15 which many people do including myself. But the 60 profile might look a bit chunky because of more sidewall. http://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=195&aspect=50&diameter=15&wheelwidth=7&offset=35&width2=185&aspect2=60&wheel_size=14&wheel_width=7&offset2=35#isPage=1

Just bought these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321135853605 which didnt turn up in 1st search..

There's probably a good reason for that.

Are the clips really handed left and right? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLIPS-VW-LUPO-ELECTRIC-WINDOW-REGULATOR-REPAIR-KIT-FRONT-RIGHT/321135848411 My passenger window is missing one....

Ok here's my take on it as you did ask. I like it exactly as it is, the colour is great the height is great, the wheels are great. Slightly rough around the edges is how i like them so pic 1 was fine Bright metallic green wrap seems like a waste of money to me as you have a nice colour already. The subtle mods you have done so far are good though, but it is a 1.0 so not worth throwing money at unless you intend to keep it for a good few years. Edit: ok missed the line about wanting it featured in mags, then you will need to chuck some money at it or be very handy yourself or probably both. I still think subtle colours is the way to go though. Bagged and turbo'd too if you want it featured as someone has to do a 1.0 turbo at some point just for the shits and giggles.

You'd need adjustable top mounts (expensive) that would move the whole strut instead of just trying to do it at the lower bolt holes if you have clearance issues.

Stick it on gumtree, you should easily get more than you are asking here for it. if you were closer i'd be interested in this, but kent is way to far from me.

8x15? Offset is too low and/or width is too high so they stick out too far, you might get the tread under the arch if you put stupid stretch on like 165 or maybe 175 tyres but then pc plod will on your back for the stretch you'd be running, plus i'd never encourage anyone to run silly stretch as it's dumb and dangerous. You'd also need all your arches rolled to give some clearance for sidewalls. Basically you have the wrong wheels to be able to use sensible (195 or above) tyres as they are running mild stretch already, unless you do some arch flaring, pulling and rolling to get the clearance.

Depends on offset, centre bore and how low your car is as well as tyre choice. www.willtheyfit.com

Lupos look silly on large wheels, 15 is a good size, 16 if you have to squeeze over some really big brakes, but even then careful wheel choice could limit that as some wheels have good brake clearance some dont.. I'd go for the lightest wheels for reasonable money that you like the look of, but that's just me. Do a remap if you havent done so as it transforms the tdi, a generic 100 bhp file and a lead to to it yourself can be had for £60.

Well that's a shame, the injectors could have got £140, the pistons and rods another £100, there's probably hundreds more gone down the scrap yard too.

Take it somewhere else, they dont sound like they know what they are doing, or maybe they do, they are taking the piss. Not quite sure if you mean you have a noise that sounds like brakes catching (snatching?) or if you mean they are actually doing that as well? Take the wheel off and spin the hub / disk and make sure the back plate isnt touching the disk. While there get someone to press and release the brake pedal and see if the caliper is sticking / dragging at all. As you have new pads and disks etc then that cuts out a lot of other things to check.

Are you in a large cave as that's one hell of an echo?

Most times the pistons will be ok and you can just stick another head on it or rebuild your borked one, but sometimes the pistons have taken enough of a wack to damage them and then it shows up sooner or later. My nephews SDI caddy developed a metallic rattle that came and went deep in the engine. If the car was leaning to the right it went away, otherwise it sounded horrible. Sump off revealed the gudgeon pin hanging out of number 2 piston. head off to get pistons out revealed previous valve contact from a cambelt failure that had happened under a previous owner. The piston had developed a crack around the gudgeon pin and the pin retaining area had broken off allowing the pin to slide and hit the bore wall, the pin had hammered a deep line up the bore wall. We slapped a new piston in it and he got another 3 years use out of it.

Looks like a tdi, it will be cheaper and easier to find a 2nd hand head for it, with or without injectors. Heads arent expensive the injectors are. Valve guides can be bought, but need pressing in and probably seats recut.

Cheese wire it with some mig wire and 2 handles (2 man job unless you have a large sucker thing to act as a mount for a pulley or similar), you'll need to make a small hole to get the wire thru initially, I'd try heating up the wire or a thin rod and push it thru the sealant.

if the donor car is capable of it then stick the cluster back in and get the cluster pin number from it using vcds and vag tacho. Once you have that you can code it into your Passat i think. (never done it) http://uk-mkivs.net/topic/61287-cluster-swap-immo3-to-immo3/

Compression test. You needs one. Anytime there is a misfire, do a compression test as it means you start down the right path straight away without chucking money at it. Black and sooty plugs says too rich, so your ecu may be running the rich map because of wrong sensor info or you could have an induction leak. VCDS lite registered version will do live data on various things to help you out a bit too.

My spare no gas welder decided to have a hissy fit so not very pretty .... quick and dirty was the order of the day just a look see, can be cleaned up and painted if used. 2 bits of angle and actuator lengthened. Turbo body clocked, needs oil union from the gt1544 or buy another one. Needs 2 longer studs on the manifold triangle joint and the oil union to complete. This will probably go on my lupo soon and i'll post how it goes.

http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/topic/331509-epc-light-on-error-code-brake-switch-light-but-its-working/ Check yer fuses.

Close, but no cigar. Not as plug and play as I was hoping for... Turbo body needs clocking about 45 degrees, compressor cover / snail needs clocking about 80 degrees. Actuator needs a bracket and a rod made up.