mk2

Is that what the stuff is? Interesting. So Mr. Chemist, how does it work? Does it just coat everything or react with oil or CO2...?

Yeah I know. Heard the same. But where to go definitive... I can see me pulling box after box to pieces, probably ruining at least one or other till I find the right cogs. Won't go that way. No-one I know in Germany is willing to pull a 3L box to bits for me for cogs as they're worth too much complete!

There's typically an AC sticker on the panel next to the bonnet (hood) lock, just above the radiator. It tells you the system capacity 750g type of R and +50 or whatever amount of oil in grams to add.

Loosen it off more. If it was the pedal box, the biting point is almost on the floor. Or it might just be worn out...

AUG or AWY, but from an 020 box. I'm not sure if the shafts are right though.

Systems about the same size as mk4 golf, so I'd say about the same. 750g 134a. 50-75g of oil from memory. Vac it all out first for at least an hour to get any moisture to boil off. Whoever does it will see all the gauges anyway, so it'll be easy to tell when it's close to the limit.

Wiring for sure. You could probe all the ecu pins and see which one goes high/low while cranking. Diagram much easier. Sounds like more than one relay or control wire (to relay).

Yeah. So it looks like the only option is the fifth gear set and synchro from a 3L box. In this country... rocking horse poo. Unless I can find which mk2 golf had the same cogs.... anyone? Just got back from another 200 mile jaunt. Yeah, definitely needs to rev lower at 80 on the motorway.

Hey and you have the matching bucket. Gotta keep the car running now!

With ABS and tow bar! Shame it's a pre £30 tax car. Looks good, but no inside pics.

I don't think it'll work, but hey worth a try. Pull the head off. By the end of Sunday you could have it runnig again

Yeah, i have an SDI 1.7 (1.9) engine on a crate somewhere. Can measure it. Which bits do you need to know. Pic would be easiest.... Either I have it completely wrong or the part numbering system doesn't work! Ok, so the lupo sdi is the exact same lump as the 1.9, and comes as standard with the 085 FFV box variant (in the lupo). The engine is slightly angled backwards by I'd guess maybe 10 degrees. The 1.4 tdi uses an 02 something (as I understand which is to fit engines mounted at a different angle -I think). 1.9 TDI engines have bigger boxes for the increased torque, which I don't think fit the lupo without messing with cv joints and halfshafts and other stuff I'd imagine. I don't know what internals cross over. So where am I at? Have I got it all wrong?

Just had a thought @RAB... The 3L has completely different hub carriers and front suspension setup. Never worked on one, but from drawings they are 'odd'. I mean what's going on with those front wheel bearings?!

What's the camber like on your's? Have you had a chance to measure it? The steering geometry is wrong though... A lot. Measure the angle of the turned in wheel on full lock (on the inner corner radius). Then measure the outer. If you take the outer as correct, the inner always needs to be turned in more to follow the smaller circumference of the turning circle but not as much as it is. Use the centre line of the car with a perpendicular line extending towards the circle centre through the back axle axis; they don't intersect. It's about 1.2m from the centre (behind the rear axle)! Mk4 golfs are the opposite. I always wondered why my mk4 keeps squealing in dry smooth car parks when on full lock. Not enough angle. It's like on the first BMW minis. Their track arm and rack tie rod lengths were different (wrong) resulting in awful "bump steer". Perhaps it was deliberate for track use....! Lots of cars get it wrong. Dunno why as it's basic schoolboy geometry.

Yeah... most vdubs, audis, seats etc. The holes on the struts are about 2mm bigger diameter than the bolts. Lots of room to play with. I read somewhere officially that's how you adjust the camber. I'll see if i can find a link. Probably for a old mk2. It's also why the lower track arm ball joint mount has slots, not round holes. I can't exactly remember the numbers I measured a while back when doing all the checks, but something like 4 degrees of variation on a standard Lupo. Surprising actually. Not that minute to be fair. But I have to agree- They do look like they were originally designed to be non adjustable. Enormous clearance holes for some reason though. But there is a huge design flaw in the steering geometry on all Lupos, which is why the inner edge of the tyres wear, even when perfectly tracked. The inner radius wheel track when turning, turns in too far and scrubs. The rack track rod end should be about 85mm further out from the axis centre- basically a longer lever. But can't as you'd need 19" rims. The short wheelbase is the problem. They partly cured it on the Up, which is why it has slightly bigger wheels.

I once left off a sump plug while filling with fresh oil... I think that's about as dumb a mistake I've ever made. Yeah dishwasher tablets work a treak. Add two to a big system (10L). Designed to not attack rubber or cause corrosion to any metal and even de-limescales too. Any oils or contaminanents go into suspension then get dumped when you drain it. Just rinse through with fresh water at least three times before filling with antifreeze again. The anti freeze last years that way and stays lovely and clear. No pinky cloudiness.

Dishwasher tablet in coolant tank will clean everything nicely.

Headgasket, crack or oil cooler leak for sure... It'll be just a question of time before it finally goes.

You could try making a very thin cut with a razor. Then very carefully inject some glue (you need to experiment), press it around the bubble with your fingers, then heat it with a hair dryer. Then using a vacuum cleaner, suck all the air out (and some glue...)To stop the air getting sucked back into the thin cut, put some tape loosely over it to act as a valve. When the glue has set, pull the tape off. You shouldn't see the cut. I've done it before on other cars and it works.

Excellent news! I wish we had that buyers guide (wiki) on here still. It listed every common problem with each model, right down down to detail, why 'it' failed and the symptoms (but not a how-to fix it, which already exists). It was a handy guide to help people spot/identify problems before they became expensive. I wonder if we should have another go.... took weeks though. if we did it as a thread instead of a wiki it might not get erased.

I had a similar problem with a mk4 golf... even with a pollen filter. Exhaust gas was leaking near the manifold into the engine bay. The little foam blocks either end of the scuttle panel seal were missing and the gas was getting sucked into the fresh air inlet. New blocks. Sorted. Plus sealing the exhaust helped.

Yeah, i was wondering the same thing. We don't like seeing people getting ripped off/being taken for a ride here on CL! I once worked as freelance mechanic, filling in for different garages. Best of both worlds. Good money and you only need a boot of basic tools. Great way of working your way up in the trade, before switching to auto design.

Innuendo? Careful. @mscherryviolet will be back earning more points...

Love the exhaust...

Much left on the Lupos? I'll go down and have a rummage. Thanks for the heads up 👍🏻 Been looking for someone breaking a lupo within an hours drive or so for ages.