mk2

You should get decent milage from it, unless you're always over 2.5k rpm... Have you checked the injection timing correction factor on VCDS? (Box 4, group 4 from memory). Should sit at around 0 (when the engine and gearbox oil is fully warmed up)? You might also have a stuck or sticky EGR...

Use a torch (flashlight) to see where the end fits in... You can see how it locks or unlocks with a screwdriver.

Excellent! Part of the CL restoration team... You'll be looking for the tiny plastic bits next. Strut tower caps, screw head caps and passenger seat material from scrap cars in Germany.

There are just no lupos in any scrappies that i know within 30 miles of me. Rare as.... Not fair.

Are you going to be doing a restoration job or alterations as needed?

I need to reload all those damned pics on the how-to. It's not that hard. Most difficult bit is loosening off the crank pulley and bolts. I have two of my SDIs to do in the next few months.

Yeah, but you're driving an R32 tank Rich...

What does your gear stick knob look like (seriously!)? One of my SDIs in poverty spec with wind up windows has a dimpled thing with the shift pattern embossed into the knob. I'm trying to find another as I personally prefer it to the chromed ring type you get in the S spec cars... I'd stick to manual windows in a Lupo. The control switches are in the wrong place. Who wants to control windows with the buttons under your elbow.

One of my SDIs tests at 0.3 smoke level on emissions.... better than many brand new diesels! The wierd thing is that if you look on the compliance plate/sticker in the engine bay, it says 0.7 is the limit. UK MOT tests the level to 1.5 I think (or is it 2.5 smoke?), but they are "meant to" test to the compliance plate limit- if visible. NOX still isn't part of testing, but I'll be very interested to see what levels our diesels chuck out when/if it ever comes in. EGR is disabled on all mine (and gas flowed/ported), so technically NOX should be quite high when the engine is cold. But in the current MOT, they only check exhaust gases when the engine is hot, so I can't imagine the test ever failing. But what do I know about this nonsense... (not much). There is something called a "blue angel" cat that you can fit to an SDI, which apparently brings down emissions to almost clean air (other than the CO2).

Nice.

I think someone on here did a 4wd conversion once- using off the shelf vdub parts from an older mk2 syncro or rallye. Straight in with no welding, except the fuel tank, exhaust and propshaft (propshaft services ltd) had to be custom made. I think they got around the outer cv joint problems by switching from ball bearing type CV joints to a tri-pot roller race joint (golf or polo or something- can't remember). I think you could probably do maybe an extra 50-75mm without too much hassle. Just watch the front drive shafts. Spring spacer plates or even air suspension works.

I'll second that, but go for the 4 pot as on the 3 pot, apparently the balance shaft chain can snap. Unless you know that the chain tensioner has been renewed in the last 50k miles.

I can't think of any problems other than the outer cv joints. Especially the left one. You'll need to adjust the rear brake compensator thing too, and the front tracking (it would start toeing out). You might want to do what vdub (or that Austrian tuning company) did with the "mk2 golf country" edition. They lifted the whole car about 140mm!!! Drop the front subframe, change the struts. Extend the steering column. And pipes, gear shift, electrics etc...

Ok, so the irony doesn't become obvious until after you've read it a couple of times... LOL!

Wow, yeah. 10 years on!

You must have a fault... or go through new tyres in about a month 😂

Gti is a petrol lump...

How many k has it done? Could just be worn bearings or needs a decoke.

Opie oils are good value. Ebay? I always buy engine oil in bulk (it doesn't go off), as it's something you'll always need.

Yes. But I wouldn't use SVO alone. Ever. You need to lower the viscosity to avoid pump cavitation. That said, you'll still have some cavitation when there's glycerol in the mix. You could add kerosene to the SVO to lower the viscosity during cold weather. Every ten tanks run on pure high grade diesel.

I'm biased. Mk2 is IMO the best car ever made. Sure there are lots of compromises, but taking everything into account it wins. Noisy. Yes. Uncomfortable. Yes. Economical. No. Simple. Yes. Reliable. Kind of. Fun. Sort of. Easy to maintain and repair. Yes. Well made. Absolutely. Do they last. Yes. 30 years old now and neglected cars that occasionally pop up on ebay are still running (just). You can't say that for just about any other car. 👍🏻 I have more than one Lupo however....

Standard nozzles from a 1.9 TDI. You need the same dispersion pattern or spray, so the only thing you can change (realistically) is the size of the injector holes. The rest of the diesel system is identical. Mapping is different though as the 1.7 pumps less air than a 1.9 TDI. The trouble is that the amount of air needed to burn any extra fuel isn't really available, so you get a choking mix, giving you black smoke. And the speed of the burn (cetane rating) is fixed, so if you try and do what people do with petrol engines by pushing up the revs a bit to eek out more power, also won't work, because you run out of burn time. By the time the piston has made it to half way, you want all of the mix to have caught fire. Can't happen if the piston is moving faster. Think bicycle pedal- max push (gas pressure) when the crank is horizontal. (Direct injection petrol engines also have the same limitations- insufficient injection time at high RPMs) But one thing that really does make a big difference to an SDI is the gas flowing of the inlet manifold. Block off the 4 EGR injection ducts with some ali rod then die grind the whole thing smooth to keep the air laminar. I've posted "how to" pics a few years ago. The car now cruises a lot easier. People who have driven my SDIs after driving their stock versions always ask what on earth have I done to the engine. Gas flowing. That's all. Was fun with the bigger injectors in though.

That was my mate Jason... (G60JAY) in QLD to be precise. 4WD flavour, with a hint of Rallye. Over here again now down in Surrey.

Yeah a shockingly bad French design is the 01M... The diff crown gear works loose (rivets fail). The diff bearings start to go at about 60k miles and the pinion shaft bearing (diff end) also starts to go around 80. Oh, and the seal between the diff and the gearshift system also fails, mixing the two fluids. But the gear shift system apparently lasts up to about 200k with regular fluid and filter changes. So I might be pulling the box next summer to get my local gearbox place to do an overhaul before it completely lets go. Just the diff section (diff & end covers and diff flanges off). SORN presently. Know anyone that can rebuild a viscous (for my Rally)?

Different. That'd be the switch... common problem. @skezza has written loads on the subject and how to fix it. Something to do with water/dirt ingress affecting the contacts.