mk2

How thin was the original clip? And how many miles had the box done? Just curious to know how much wear there was over time. Apparently that clip should be just very slightly loose when replacing it. And make sure that fifth is easy to engage before sealing up. You need to adjust the fork so it's just loose. stick an electric drill on the input shaft once you've chucked some oil in there. Should be silent. If still noisy, could be that another bearing has gone or is going. Now's the time to refurb it if you're concerned. Parts are about £120 plus labour.

Could be a leaky valve? Need more symptoms description TBH. Has the cam belt ever snapped or engine overheated in the past? Does the engine warm up normally (quickly)? Is the car used mainly on very short runs?

Sounds like a misfire...? Not much power as well? Running on 3 not 4.

Wheels worth more than my Lupo... ah, if only I had the cash. They are nice though.

You can just pressure bleed it through?! I thought that's the usual method.... especially with ABS pumps when doing brakes.

Get one of those pressure bleed kits. Or stick a schrader valve in a spare reservoir cap

Interesting. Completely agree on gbox lube. But I've only ever encountered one duff PAS pump fail. And in a mk2. But i think I must be the only person ever who flushes the PAS system. And i hang a magnet in the reservoir. Curious what it collects over time. Dexron 2. Hmm. Penzoil (is it 768? -can't remember) is better. As is Amsoil. Odd fact of the day... (or so I've been told) JCB type 46 hydraulic fluid (the most common in all plant) is vegetable oil based so when it leaks it doesn't cause an environmental disaster (100L in 20 seconds).

I wonder if it's possible to use the tripod system in an SDI. Not that it needs it. Only ever had to change outers so far on mine. My gearbox guru chap told me the exact same about the older mk1 = 085 similarities. I had noticed a few similarities on the outsides, like the covers, but yeah, it is interesting. Makes me wonder why they went all mad on the type of gearbox lube then. Nought wrong with EP75W90 gear oil. Or synthetic equiv. Oh, and i just used an Audi 100 clutch plate in one of my SDIs.... only difference on close examination between the latest 2010 plate and the 1980 plate was the anti shock springs being slightly fatter. Maybe friction material too (old stuff containing asbestos). I reckon the mechanical guys at VAG must just have a giant warehouse, lego style, bin of bits they pick from when building new cars. Like everyone on here already knows, the give away is usually the first three digits of a part number. So many 191 parts in a Lupo! Handy for me with my mk2s...

Yeah, and I thought nobody else had noticed! it makes me wonder why they didn't use tripod instead of CV joints. Just look at the angle when on full lock left. Do a drift at speed with full lock... clunk, bang. Thinking about it- isn't it the same for all 085 boxed Lupos/Arosas?

There's a diesel one...

Something is very wrong somewhere. You shouldn't need to do that. Wrong outer cv joint? Wrong wheel bearing? Is the little plastic end stop in place on the drive shaft, next to the cone spring washer? (Inside the cv joint) Ah... did you ever rebuild the outer cv joint? Maybe the spider was replaced the wrong way round (taper on spline edge towards plastic spacer/washer thing). That would kick everything out by about 5-7mm???

Pics time... you could get maybe £600 if u fixed a few of the obvious bits. A professional 5h interior valet may help for £40ish?

Those little things are quick/easy/cheap to fix. The main things that will affect price is the interior condition (rips? Stains? Missing clips type thing?), exterior condition (rust anywhere? Dents? Cracks) and mechanical condition (engine, gearbox, suspension, exhaust). Mechanical stuff is generally easy to do... between £400 - £1200?

Front subframe needs to be moved a tiny amount if the caster is out. Right side needs to go forward. No idea how to easily work out by how much. I'd try about 2 mm to start. I s'pose you could measure everything then do the geometry maths....

You should take him for a ride in your loop. He'd think it is a fairground ride! Mustangs are big cars. I first thought that this'd be a story about fuel economy...

Don't forget the low profile tyres.

Do what i do... go on ebay.de germany, use google translate and ask someone over there if they'd be happy to strip the material off their barely used passenger seat. Send it over using myhermes.de for 18 euros. Refit to your frame. Ta da! Driver's seat like brand new again in matching cloth pattern. Prices are usually about 50 euros. While you're at it, get a 3L steering wheel for 20 euros.

What's the outer joint like?

Are your diff bearings ok? Just wondering if the diff flanges may have moved a bit...? But you'd hear the whine! Have you ever moved the front subframe- might be out? Just thinking aloud. Oem wishbones? Yeah, must be engine mounts. Correct shafts?

There's your tell tale... end of travel limit reached. Pulling. Looks like the ball tried to escape and then jammed without enough space to move. The middle of the spider is fine, so not wear related. No discolouration, so not overheating either, so grease was ok too. Possibly engine mounts like @Sausage suggested. Stiffer bushes reduce movement so no problem. Camber may have affected it, as moved to more negative which moves the hubs further away from the box. But not a lot really. yeah i agree with @Sausage....

Did it cause much damage as it spun round? Nightmare.

Wow, you're lucky. A bit more use and a needle could have dropped out and game over. Must have got really hot. Use the old synchro. It has visibly more life left in it.

Those Ronals look amazing! Good job!

The guy who bought that SDI cambridge in wales would buy it.... i wonder which weld is the one that usually fails?

I thought all the older gen1 keys work the same way...? I think the only reason we've not been able to get into the key learning thing in a lupo is because we don't have enough systems to break before we get it right like you can on the bora or mk4. You can rewrite the eeprom on a lupo to your heart's content, but chances are it'll be the wrong address location or hex code and the ecu will get stuffed. Even VAGtacho is a hack that only kinda works on mk4s and boras. I've not been successful at Lupo keys. Yet.