mk2

Never thought of using that... i always use a tank of propane with a hose. @stator the extra air mixed with extra fuel (gas/solvent whatever) makes the engine rev up when it has more mix to burn when it revs up, you've found the leak.

Definitely more of a grassy green. Powered or a glider? Can't make out if it has a power plant. Interesting ali wing connectors. Huge rudder!

Probably a manifold/air leak downstream of the throttle. You usually get this fault if at idle on a warm engine, the vacuum is too weak. ie, air is getting in somewhere. Sensor reporting a plenum vacuum that should be stronger, but isn't. So looks like the sensor is messing about. Try blocking off any sources of external air temporarily. Like brake servo feed.... those vacuum pipes do have a tendancy to crack/split at the joins.

Aha! A true Lupo enthusiast then. My apologies as i didn't realise you also had more than one... It's just that so often people sell up never to be seen again and we're all left hanging. @Skezza is an example of that NOT happening. no lupo but still lurking.....! What d'ya reckon Skezz (i know he'll read this)? Both parties happy usually means got a bit less than asking, and they paid a bit more than they wanted. All's well that ends well. Good stuff About £1200 my guess?

Aren't they the same as mk4 golfs, where you simply chop the ends off? £6 each ish. Haven't done one for ages though, so could be wrong.

If i may be so rude, may i enquire how much you got for it (if you ever visit club lupo again....!)?

@Rich is right as usual. Sigh. Yeah, after thinking about it, makes more finacial sense to rebuild it. As a runner, it'd be worth around £1500, in decent nick. Maybe even more depending on milage and history. Get a new beam from a breakers sent to you. Maybe £50? Then perhaps five/six hours to swap all the parts back again. Get an MOT and it'll sell quick. Invest perhaps £200 at a local workshop and let them do it in their free time if you are too busy..... SDIs have the lowest running cost of just about any Vdub ever. They are in demand. Cheaper to own/run/maintain than a fox, polo, up or other little thing.

Yeah, the fan resistor is the culprit. Ebay, brand new from china for £12... replaced one last week. Perfect fit. Works well too. Pull (slide) out the motor while you're at it and give it a service. sounds like reasonable lupos have flat lined around 750 the last couple of years then. Gtis and SDIs still get more. Just thought- you haven't mentioned which model it is. keep us up to date with your findings. Everyone loves a good restoration job. Check the gearbox oil level. Essential. If anything flush it with diesel, then drain while the wheels are spinning off the ground, to get every last bit of yellow metal out.

Hey hey! Welcome to Club Lupo! may i ask how much you paid, how many miles? Just curious what the market is doing.... have you checked the buyers guide wiki thing on here?

Yeah, it'd be a shame to break a special edition SDI. There are very few about. Maybe 15 left?

If someone had a spare rear beam, could bung it in the car with some tools. Get one of the cars going to basic MOT level, fix on the spot using parts from both cars, exchange some cash or gifts, book a local MOT, temporary insurance, online tax and drive away... in theory.

Can you describe in more detail the changes you felt/observed with the different ARBs?

Press the little tabs sideways that slot into the seat top, that release the two support rods. Don't pull the headrest up too hard when releasing. Practice on the front ones which you can access more easily.

Very interesting info. There must be a lot of political/cultural pressure with one side naturally trying to dominate. Yeah there is a shield, which I've always thought is essential to stop bits flying into pulley channels and to keep as much away as poss from bearing seals, power steering pipes (which rust) and the alternator. But there have been some interesting findings from other people on here. The shield is a lightweight, fragile, weak thing, which probably was cracked by an inept grease monkey trying to get to the oil filter and then simply left off. With those sort of milages, it'll be very interesting to see all the long life issues that crop up. Stuff we rarely see over here on this little island. Someone on here posted something about joining the rare 1M miles club, in an SDI lupo a few days ago. Very impressive. My guess would be suspension, steering, transmission and wheel bearing components (ignoring all the regular service items). Oh, and the driver's seat! Let us know how it pans out. A lot of people have been following this thread....

Paraffin=kerosene=jet fuel=lamp oil=engine bay cleaner you're confused? You're in a bilingual country that completely baffles us english speaking lot from the UK (i speak for myself)! I've never understood how one country can have two completely different languages, in one culture. yeah you'll have to conjure up some clever block/sump heater based on what you can get hold of locally. Never gets that cold over here. I'd be curious to know how the auto trans will handle -40c. How many watts of power do block heaters use? I guess it's not to keep the block warm, just at a temp that isn't silly cold. So it keeps the block above say -5v or something? I know very little about living in extreme cold. you might be able to get an english manual from someone scrapping a uk spec car. Someone on here may have an old copy knocking around. i'm amazed that you've already covered 3k km already. You'll be doing some big numbers within no time. @Rich is there anything that you'd check for reliability on the 1.4. Weak points?

Please please dismantle it... lots of cracking parts on it. It's just i have no easy way to get it to me in Reading.

I'll buy your old wheel off you if it's in ok condition (without the airbag bit). Mine is so worn, it's not funny. I wonder why they disintegrate like that.

No quick fix. You'll need to get down behind the lower dash to see if the cable has jumped off the control knob to the hot/cold air diverter flap, or if there's a problem with the flap itself. Once you're in there give everything a clean and lube everything with dry lube spray. Everything will work really well afterwards.

030115561AB this website is handy.... https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/etka/volkswagen/lu/231/ But, chances are that the threaded flange on the filter is a standard fitment. It'll be a metric thread. When you pull off the old one clean it up and go down to your local parts store. Certain they'll have something that fits. The only significant difference between filters other than thread and seal size is the non return valve design and release spring pressure. And most engines run the same oil viscosity which operates at the same temperature and pressure. This is assuming you can't get the exact right one locally. It's "litre"

Actually, yeah, I'll second that. Needs a full maintenance record though. If you have a modified car, the insurance bumps up to near Ferrari level. If you don't tell em, they crush your car and you get a life long black mark with the central insurance database. No-one wants that..... money wise, much cheaper in the long run to go with a different/faster car, unless you've just won the lottery

V8 or straight 6 then. Normally aspirated. Fast. Very reliable. Thirsty. Old merc or beemer.

I guess the big question is what are you trying to achieve? Track car? Street rod? Stealth car? Gangsta? Rat? Frenched? Street cruiser? Touring car... the list goes on.

Nought wrong with small blown engines. I just love the ford ecotec series. Fabulous engineering. Cr@p cars but super engineering. An engine that chucks out 100hp, with decent torque and you can almost lift it with one hand. Amazing.

How much money do you have...? Might be cheaper to buy a bigger engined car.

I hate long journeys in my lupo. To get to 1M you'd have to spend your life on the road....