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Everything posted by mk2

  1. If that was an original RHD 3L, that is not too bright.... They are worth a lot now. I wanted one before I bought the SDI, but then realised that the only choice now is a LHD import. No thanks. People who risk a cam belt either have money to burn or.... I won't insult anyone today!
  2. I'd like a main dealer original OEM key, but they all quote different prices (starting at £110 to £265!). Does anyone know a main dealer that is more reasonable? Basic key with the transponder built in and working... I'd like two actually.
  3. Please elaborate... we want to know more!
  4. looks like an audio amp feed, but in that position- it does look like an OEM feed. Could it be a washer jet heater circuit feed? How many contacts are there in the OEM plug (socket)? Can you trace where the other end of the cable ducting leads to?
  5. 236k on the original belt?!??! What!?! no way.
  6. This is exactly what I'm thinking of doing down the line... But not from a mk3, a mk4 PDI 150. As far as I know, there are only two ways of doing the wiring, if you want to run a proper fuelling scheme (as in a proper Bosch/VW map). 1. Completely transplant the engine and related wiring from a donor car. 2. Grab only the engine and throttle wiring loom (and a few related bits), and get someone to 'switch off' all the unused sections of software using VAGCOM (or something). If you want to run your own map, get a 3rd party ECU and wire it up. I've done this for a petrol car, but never for a diesel. You will want to have a working dash (rev counter, temp gauge, speedo)- that causes headaches. I shall watch this thread with interest!
  7. Thanks for that... Nothing to worry about then.... And you're in Spain where it's slightly warmer than here in the uk.
  8. Once the flexi ducts are off and pipes/tubes are disconnected, maybe 10 minutes. It's a bit fiddley, and you can't get the cover off without unbolting the trumpets.... (Not enough space at the back of the engine)
  9. You absolutely need those trumpets. They are there to set up a resonance or pulse wave to increase the air flow going into each cylinder. If you leave them off, you lose lots of power. The length of each trumpet is precisely tuned to give you peak power in conjunction with cam valve angles. short trumpets give you more power at high revs and no low end torque. long the opposite. somewhere in the middle is the best compromise for general driving. many modern engines have "dual path" inlet manifolds which change the air flow resonance depending on RPM....
  10. I made a locking tool... Not visible. Flat bar with two bolts sticking out, spaced apart by the bolt centres. I don't think it's possible to undo those 4 bolts (high torque) without locking the crank.
  11. Nought wrong with using paint marks when the old belt is still on... So long as everything lines up again after a few hand turns of the engine, all is good. Never failed me yet. Yeah this belt i'd say it is/was the original from new.... 12 years later! 60k miles. But I must say that it is nice to work on a factory original engine where there are no bodge jobs. All bolts correctly torqued, nice and clean threads and everything lining up beautifully. It says a lot for longevity of OEM parts.
  12. mk2

    lupo 1.4

    The secret code inside the key has to match the internal code in the dash unit and the ECU memory. The numbers are not visible by part number- you need the right key. No other easy solution. Trip to dealer.... or buy a key based on the VIN.
  13. Ian, look at my clutch heat shield thread. There's a pic there that may help... The EGR unit has two mounts. The top one is easy- just a nut- the lower one has a nut and a pedestal that you need to use a 13mm stud extractor to remove it (or a pair of mole grips). Just keep the dip stick tube out of the way while working. Remove the pedestal before the top nut.
  14. Whilst everything is in pieces, thought I'd have a look around for anything that looks wrong or that just doesn't 'feel' right. So I noticed that the clutch cable is only a few cm from the exhaust, and has no heat shield round it. Does anyone else have one with a heat shield or am I worrying about nothing? Don't mention the old brake fluid either.... I reckon that's never ever been changed. And, anyone else think that there's easily enough space for a turbine in there.... as in 1.9 PDI 150????
  15. Now fixed: I used (is it?) Matt's idea of radiator backing material as the seal. But it took lots of attempts to find a glue that would stick it to my satisfaction. The only thing that I founds works is low modulous neutral cure silicone, specifically for use on PVC windows. It sticks.
  16. In case any of you have been following my major service since buying the SDI, I decided that while I had everything in pieces, I may as well change the water pump. Got a good deal from GSF (£15 delivered). Anyhooo... I was wondering why the belt wasn't running down the middle of the pulley. My first thought was that someone in the past decided to fit a unit from another engine like the 1.9, which might be very slightly different but good enough. I didn't think much more of it till it was out. So I have changed enough genuine VW pumps now to conclude that they ALL eventually fail. And the pattern seems to be between 60 and 80,000 miles. Aftermarket ones are a lot better. Pics follow: So if you have a belt that isn't running true, or maybe the water level seems to be dropped very slowly in the reservoir, check the pump...
  17. Some pics as promised... I have got to say that the engine will have to run better once I've done the mods. I mean, just look at all the cr@p that bungs up the inlet. Any restriction on flow will not be noticed and the computer will still supply the same amount of fuel per cycle as if it is running clear. So the exhaust gas will always be sooty. Running rich. I have no words... Economy should be better, power better, emissions better. The oil wont need changing as often. The cylinder bores will stay cleaner. In addition to the blocking off of the EGR ducts, I've already diverted the blowby gasses down on to the road below the car. I'll report back if it makes any difference when it's all back together again.
  18. This afternoon I started... I ended up removing the inlet manifold in the end as I came to the conclusion that that would be the easiest way to do it. Now clean again. No trace of carbon buildup now. First clean with parrafin/kerosene then finish with cellulose thinners. Thinners are excellent at cleaning off diesel deposits by the way! And once clean and on the bench it became clear how the design really has been messed up by the emissions team at VW. Under the tumpet bases there are little oil drains (for when the plenum fills up with oil), which also messes up the sensitive air flow. So now my plan is to fill those gaps with high temp silicone (as used for gaskets) and smooth everything off. Also insetad of fitting a blanking plate to the EGR, I'm going to plug each individual gas duct that joins on to the exhaust gas feed gallery. How I'm going to do that is yet to be decided. I was thinking of either tapping the holes and filling them with bolts, which I could die grind off later (to not affect the air flow), or machine up some ali plugs (same diameter as the holes) and then simply wedge them in and grind off later. I'm tempted to go down the ali rod route as it's probably easier.... I'll take some pics in the morning.
  19. Thanks FKA daood. Yeah the stuff is quite dry. Vacuum cleaner.... Mmmm there's an idea. I guess i could vacuum and scrape at the same time. I could do it with both valves open, so any airflow (and gunge) would simply be sucked through. I'll get the camera out before starting work.
  20. OMG. I now completely get why people block off the EGR valve. I'll have to post some pics for you to believe what I'm seeing. A-maz-ing. The base of the inlet trumpets are so clogged I'd say that the diameter of the air flow duct is only about 10mm instead of 30. Who knows how bad the back of the inlet valves are. I know that the inlet ducts (leading to the inlet valves) are really bady clogged with soot. Hard gritty material it is. I thought that it may have something to do with the blow-by gasses, but there isn't that much oil residue in the back of the plenum chamber. I'll be bunging that up for sure and adding an open air vent. Looking at the way the gasses flow in this head, I think adding short ducting tubes into the inlet manifold will be more beneficial than a blanking plate at the end of the exhaust gas gallery. Having that gallery at the base of the trumpet completely defeats the purpose of the resonant air flow. I reckon EGR on this head is an afterthought. I need to figure out how to very carefully scrape out the soot from the inlet ducts, without too much going into the cylinders. Any suggestions welcome!
  21. mk2

    Air con Removal

    I thought that might be the case... I looked in Etka, and it didn't show up in the right combination there either. I suppose it's because there simply isn't enough space for a compressor. But I suppose it could go right above everything, just where the fuel hoses are, but how the belt would need to be routed I have no idea. I'll have to get one of my spare compressors out and have a play to see what size would fit. It could go where the alternator is, but then I'd have to move the alternator. mmmm tricky. There's lots of places a mounting cradle could be bolted on though, which makes it 'doable'.
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