mk2

Google how a narrow band Oxygen (O2) sensor works, then it will help you find the fault. The voltage oscillates around lambda when the mixture is stoichiometric. Higher for rich mixture and lower for more O2. Around 0.45V average when perfect.

Watch the lambda sensor voltage... it is a really good way of diagnosing fuel/air problems. In vcds, you can plot the voltage with time and temp.

Is it possible to measure your sensors with your diagnostics? They will tell you if the temperature is correct... if engine is hot, but sensor says only 30C (for example), then no fault found, but sensor is faulty You can do it with all the sensors.

I'll second that. Thanks for the info people. This Lupo forum is great! 👍🏻

You have diagnostics?

He wants to do it properly does that pin push out? I want to repair the little rubber strap securing the fuel cap that clips onto the fuel door, but can't figure out how the fuel cap dismantles... anyone? oh, by the way, you can still get genuine replacement fuel door stickers, if you're trying to make it concours. 👍🏻

Check the power supply to the speedo sensor. It usually has 5V and 0 and a 5v output square wave signal. You should be able to see the same signal in the dash. If you turn the sensor spindle in your fingers and connect up a voltmeter, you should see that output signal.

About £50 a year maintenance parts costs on my SDIs... reliable, cheap to run, get you A to B cars, with no style or comfort whatsoever. I like buying cars with descriptions like "there is a major problem with the engine, so buying as spares and repairs." Means it's just a wire that's fallen off. Done that a few times. Stuck EGR valves are a good fault too... oh and "check engine light is on"

Kite string and nail polish remover. Then finish up with some T cut and meguire's polish.

When you sell it, don't just sell it as a cheap small runabout for a new driver. As there are fewer than 10 left on the UK's roads, you need to make that a selling point. It's like Mk2 golfs... even the nastiest poverty spec "Golf C" now goes for very good money as there are so few original one's left!

Yeah, it's too big. Needs to be smaller than the gti bit.

Wow, I have to be honest and say that that's the first 16V version I've seen. There can't be many about. Personally, I'd fix the broken bits which like you say are all superficial and take it from there. Don't worry about the bonnet stone chips. Get the interior properly valeted for around £40 (or do it yourself), give it a good wax and polish and you could get as much as £1200. Get it running...

If it barely warms up, so lots of short trips, I go for a thinner oil (like ...w30) and change it religeously every few months. Oil only starts working once the engine is hot. The detergents will never get a chance to do their thing if only warm.

Once you're moving, can you get it to go into first, maybe just by matching revs to speed? It could be syncro but if would have given you symptoms before failing. Or could be bent or broken selector fork (unusual). Either way, you need to pull the box, split it apart and see what's going on. Where's the clutch bite point? Floor, top or middle? You have checked the stick shift gear selector system is ok?

Yeah, temp sensor... buy a decent branded part, as the chinese copies fail in just over a year.

What happened to the missing piston?!

Yeah, assuming all the basics like air filter is fine, do as @Rich says. Diagnostics, then possibly coolant temp sensor. They all fail at some point. Failed temp sensor makes the ECU think that the engine is always cold, so it's like running around with the choke out. Extra fuel for warm up mode....

Try disconnecting power for 24h...?

Welcome to CL describe the problems...

They fit in the direction you've taken the pic. Top at top if that makes any sense. With the fronts, be sure to fit the end of the spring right into the mounting plate, so the cut end of the spring butts up to the notch. I always clean and put an anti rust coat on everything before assembly. May be worth fitting new bump stops while you're at it... a short length of thin rubber hose slid over the spring ends will also help prevent corrosion and reduce noise a bit 21mm spanner and hex key to loosen off the strut top nut. Then you'll need to borrow someone's spring compressors... (only for the front). But you could just take the struts out complete to your nearest mechanic who might let you borrow their spring compressor for a gift.

Started life new in Carlisle for a few years, then Leicester for a few years then me here in Reading. One pattern I've noticed is that cars that start life up north when new rot out much sooner than cars down south. Has got to be weather related. One of my lupos that never left London is like new, but body work is covered in dents- due for a repsray very soon.

Yeah it is. Wierd thing though, is the other side is perfect. Not a spot of rust at all. Me thinks Fritz was having a rough day during assembly and forgot to squirt a load of wax into the left side. Not a trace anywhere. Other side has loads. Well it's all back together again, primed and very thickly waxoyled. Should last a year at least... till I could be bothered to do a subframe swap. I almost decided to pull the thing out as it's only the steering rack that causes hassle. i'd have left it in place, hanging off the column. But then thought and so does the exhaust and engine antisway strapping. Too much. Quicker to just weld it all in place. I'll take an after pic when I get a mo.

Just about finished welding the damn thing for MOT. It will need replacing. I'm looking at an SE in Basingstoke 30 mins away that's had a front end. If the price is right, I'll pull it for parts and sell off any other bits. Gumtree...

Well spotted 👍🏻 Nice one. I'll get some...

Too much natural weight reducing going on in one of mine. Welding it for the time being, but will eventually need a replacement front subframe.... could do with a spare rear beam too, just in case.