mk2

Hey @iwcham1979, you might be able to use a standard lupo hydraulic steering rack with a polo pump...? The electric power steering column system looks like a complete self controlled system so you could try it? @RAB, is the 3L quite heavy for parking? I haven't driven a post 1991 car without PAS... Old mk2 golfs are no fun unless you've just left the gym. That drawing looks like there's a worm gearbox on the steering column shaft. At least it looks like it, as the motor axis is perpendicular to the column. I imagine that if that motor stops dead, the steering must lock up (just like leccy windows).

Pics ?

@RAB, on a 3L or A2, does the steering assist vary with speed like on later Polos with their electrically pumped hydraulic system? Slowly, max assist, at speed, no assist....? Also, just as a matter of interest- what happens on the electrical system if the power fails? Does the system lock (like on BMWs and then they crash...)- does it use a worm gear? Is the torsion sensor (and control electronics) built into the column, meaning no external control is needed- the ECU only providing a vehicle speed signal?

I don't like it at all. But my god, it's been really well done. Quality work by the looks of things. The whole front end has been completely remodeled! And only a 1.0 :)

Check the driver lower door card...

Always busy... I need 36h days. 24 is just not enough! I will try and upload all the how-to pics again tomorrow night. Just collecting all the bits for one of the SDI cam belt changes this week. If no rain and I could be bothered, it's saturday AM to do it. Next one around xmas probably. Sigh...

Yeah, you need a bracket. But 1.2 block is different to 1.4 block, so i am not sure if the power steering pump bracket will fit... My guess is the Audi is also electric power steering? @RAB knows. My guess is electric system is less work and quicker to fit, but you may need to do some "extra" wiring. Speed sensor?

Oh, ok. New info to me Thanks. We don't have 3L in the uk (unless special import). So you will need to change steering column & steering rack, get power steering pump bracket (1.4tdi), power steering pump, extra pulley and belt for crank or maybe change all the pulleys (not sure, maybe from 1.4TDI). And the pipes. And the fluid reservoir. I have never done it on a Lupo. Golf yes. or get complete electric power steering system from another 3L car...

Yeah, I know that reference... used it a few times for SDI timing checks. I'll see if I can find that correction factor thing. On the tdi forums somewhere. I'm certain it's measuring blocks 4, item 4 though. Also mentioned somewhere by Uwe on his rosstech site too. I've never tried it though. I need to get my hands on someone's 3 pot when one is in the workshop. I think the ECU knows if the timing is out by measuring the change in flywheel velocity (a bit like how you can watch the injector quantity adjustment compensation on an SDI). There's no cam sensor as far as I know. Edit: found it... https://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=228579 There's also a mention on a similar vein on the A2 (1.2 flavour), which I know you know very well... @iwcham1979 every lupo has power steering (electric or hydraulic) from the factory as far as I know. Which one is in your car? Maybe you just need to connect it?

You need to reverse bleed is my guess. Pump fluid in from the slave end... I had a similar problem with another car a while back.

Yeah, but it's nice to know that if i go out in the Lupo, i get almost free rides.

If engine related, then just about the only thing it can be is the EGR valve. To test it, pull off the vacuum hose to the EGR valve and choke flap. Then the car will run on clean fresh air... If motion related, could be anything- clutch, drive shaft, wheel bearing, wheel? Take it for a decent motorway drive to see if it clears, which kinda proves EGR gunge. Welcome to CL

Check the door switches... water inside the switch contacts can cause wierd problems if you open the door when it's raining! Welcome to CL

Awesome! Most jealous. Been thinking about getting a 1.2 A2, but most of the ones I've seen I've seen are very tatty- even at £2k+. They do hold their value. Generally best I get from any of my SDIs is about 82MPG (but I have modded the inlet plunum and ducting for more laminar flow).

MOT rules are- so long as there's no "excessive movement" or "metal to metal" contact, it will pass. But yeah, I've pulled out control arm bushes where the centres just drop out, but still pass. Unbelieveable. Apart from the bushes, those arms look like they're in great condition. I always cut mine out with a jigsaw... One cut in the ali outer rim and they just drop out. Quick. Then to the local gearbox place armed with either a tub of roses chockies or a 6 pack of ale (depending on time of year) and they let me use their press....

LOL! Exactly..... (add a 'grrrr' sound after asking 'how do you know') .... If it showed that it was wrong, how would you correct it anyway? If you do it without locking tools, it's going to be incorrect anyway and VCDS will only prove it..... You can spot the 'difference from mean' using VCDS- so in theory (I haven't tried it, but read that lots of people swear by this method), you can set it up using locking tools to get it basically right, then when hot, slacken the three cam pulley locking bolts off a fraction, put the car into 4th gear (engine off, but hot), a nudge the car forward to tweak it so it's perfect = 0 variation. Going from +1 or -1 is quite noticable apparently. I was certain you'd have tried that method.

Oh. You may have broken your gearbox... That bolt holds the diff flange (the bell shaped thing) attached to the diff cage inside the gearbox. I think gearbox out again to check everything

Why do want to change the power steering from electric to mechanical? The electric system works well. Is there a problem with it? The electric system uses the speed sensor, so if the speed sensor on the manual gearbox isn't working, it wont work correctly...

Hey hey, @RAB's back. I've been reading various articles on the A2 forum. Lots of AMF and similar related fun... Should be a PM this, but I guess of interest to others (and RAB's a knowledgable chap, albeit a bit grumpy...). @RAB, when you've been experimenting on your 3 pots, after doing cam belt changes, have you ever done the hot engine injection timing correction factor check? I've discovered (but have no 3 pot engine to play on at present), that after doing a belt change, you can see how accurately the timing is set (3 bolts on cam), after using the locking tools. It varies a lot with temp, so you're meant to check it with a hot engine & box. Should read '0' if correct. VCDS item 4, group 4. I'm curious to know how good/accurate the cam locking tools are. Apparently, they're calibrated to be used at something like 16c...? Also, have you ever done the timing chain tensioner?

You took out the connection? No idea what you mean... sounds like everything else you did was by the book though welcome to CL.

When doing a restoration, I get the material for the driver's seat from germany or holland... It's the hardly sat-in passenger seat over there. If someone is breaking a lupo, it's a relatively quick job to peel off the cloth, away from the seat without harming it at all. Then cheap and easy to post (about 2.5 kg). You gain about 15 years of seat life that way The rubbery paint coated dash plastic parts are another story though.

Bargain if at a grand! I really need to do FB...Damn! I pay more than that for a dented SDI with a mint interior. Interiors are the hardest part to restore.

May i ask what you paid for the slightly scruffy gti?

Same here... my first thought is front door card seals. So I'll be pulling the lower cards off each door to investigate- leccy window repair without resealing it in the past is my best guess.

Nice pics. Fixing that rear shouldn't be too tricky. Just the paint (duco) blending will be fun.