Kid Icarus

So what happened in the end? I've got this exact problem now. Fuses seem okay, spare key makes no difference.

Does the same go for a GTi then? I need to know the location and the least amount of work to get to it and then replace please?

Has anyone got any step by step pics of the gauges being disassembled? I need to inspect the circuit board but I'm not sure in what order the dials and needles are dismantled?

As per the post you previously mentioned, I can still confirm that my 16554 code was due to the POST Cat sensor. Replacing the Cat should be your last resort as it costs a small fortune.

Just checked. 22mm

I tried ordering some 205 45 15 Continentals today from blackcircles.com because there are no Toyos in the country. Apparently The Continentals DON'T exist in that size and the guy didn't understand how they got on their web site! So bear that in mind. Dunlops seem to be the only way to go in 205s at present, but who want's to pay around £100 each for those? I know I don't.

It might just be loose bolts on the door strap?! My driver-side door creaked like hell, tightened the bolts, crisis averted.

Post up the exact fault code.

I just thought I'd mention, as it's been a fair few months now, that my cause for the problems was the POST-cat lambda sensor. It seems that it not only just monitored the operating conditions of the sensor but contributed to the fuel-trim settings as well, so bare that in mind.

I've had a hacked iphone for nearly a month now. It's the native apps that really make it something special, but apple don't like you talking about that. Out of the box it's pretty uninspiring. If you do get one, jailbreak it asap to take full advantage of it's versatility.

I really would like one of these but having a Scorpion back box and the coilovers wound right down, there really is a small margin of error. I'm afraid to splash out in case the bar fouls the box. I'd like to be proved wrong though.

Thanks for that, I'll look into asap. I can rule out number 4 as I've just replaced the Lambda because it had failed. One curious thing that I didn't mention earlier, as my findings aren't conclusive, is the condition of the injectors, which is also a possible cause. A clogged injector will also throw up this code and I added some cleaner just to rule out the possibility. I gave the car a run for 30 miles @ about 80mph and the code reappeared as soon as I erased it. On the way back on the same route it happened only once and is still off! Sounds too good to be true tbh. Will tick off the above list anyway, cheers.

Mine is fine on start-up and pottering about. The code only kicks in when I cruise about 60mph +. I switch it off but it appears immediately afterwards.

Could a BMC air filter with the crankcase breather vented to the atmosphere (via catch-can) constitute a vacuum leak and hence the fault code? I guess other users with BMCs could answer this if they are throwing up the same code?

Yes 100%. Also known as P0170.

I've been trying to track down the cause of this code that keeps popping up. I have just fitted the pre-cat Lambda sensor hoping that would cure the problem but it hasn't. Can anyone supply a likely list of possible causes I can tick off? I did read on a post here that the post-cat can affect the fuel trim levels as well to a lesser extent after mid 2001. Mine is a 52 reg. I'm wondering whether I should replace that sensor too?

Scratch the above request. It sounds like a certain garage is confusing (no doubt on purpose) an after market air-fuel gauge with the ECU controlled fuel trim module as one of the same! They are probably trying to con me out of some money as a result. Words will be exchanged over this one!!!!

Hi Guys. I know it's behind the dash but I'd like to know exactly where it is and what I need to dismantle to get at it? Has anyone got the diagrams handy please?

Does anyone know where I can get hold of a power/sport cat, preferably stainless, for the GTI?

The full nose-bra will DEFINITELY fit a gti. It's a tiny bit short where it hooks into the front wheel arches, but covers the entire front end no problem

my psn user name is JohnnyCunter if anyone wants a buddy.

You seriously need to repair or replace that pipe because it's just skimming the cambelt! If it drops off onto that then no amount of induction is going to help you get out of that mess!

I've now got the Ice link plus plumbed in through the head-unit/single c.d player combo 8 pin cd changer port and it works...well kind of! There is some truth in the fact that it isn't completely compatible. For some reason tracks are skipped two at a time and when buttons 1-5 are pressed on the head-unit, to control the playlist selection, it's a bit hit and miss. If the ice-link plus is connected directly to the head-unit it behaves like the instructions say. I'd just thought i'd warn any future purchasers. It's still really convenient and sounds good. If you can live with the above, then it's fine.

Sorry to waste your time guys but i've just answered my own question I've pulled out the c.d player and checked. The c.d player DOES have a spare 8 pin mini iso slot to cater for the c.d changer/ice link, as previously thought. All this hassle just because a website says it wouldn't work, muppets.

Yes, that's the set-up. I'll pull the c.d player out tomorrow and have a look.