Kid Icarus

So what happened in the end? I've got this exact problem now. Fuses seem okay, spare key makes no difference.

Does the same go for a GTi then? I need to know the location and the least amount of work to get to it and then replace please?

Has anyone got any step by step pics of the gauges being disassembled? I need to inspect the circuit board but I'm not sure in what order the dials and needles are dismantled?

As per the post you previously mentioned, I can still confirm that my 16554 code was due to the POST Cat sensor. Replacing the Cat should be your last resort as it costs a small fortune.

Just checked. 22mm

I tried ordering some 205 45 15 Continentals today from blackcircles.com because there are no Toyos in the country. Apparently The Continentals DON'T exist in that size and the guy didn't understand how they got on their web site! So bear that in mind. Dunlops seem to be the only way to go in 205s at present, but who want's to pay around £100 each for those? I know I don't.

It might just be loose bolts on the door strap?! My driver-side door creaked like hell, tightened the bolts, crisis averted.

Post up the exact fault code.

I just thought I'd mention, as it's been a fair few months now, that my cause for the problems was the POST-cat lambda sensor. It seems that it not only just monitored the operating conditions of the sensor but contributed to the fuel-trim settings as well, so bare that in mind.

I've had a hacked iphone for nearly a month now. It's the native apps that really make it something special, but apple don't like you talking about that. Out of the box it's pretty uninspiring. If you do get one, jailbreak it asap to take full advantage of it's versatility.

I really would like one of these but having a Scorpion back box and the coilovers wound right down, there really is a small margin of error. I'm afraid to splash out in case the bar fouls the box. I'd like to be proved wrong though.

Thanks for that, I'll look into asap. I can rule out number 4 as I've just replaced the Lambda because it had failed. One curious thing that I didn't mention earlier, as my findings aren't conclusive, is the condition of the injectors, which is also a possible cause. A clogged injector will also throw up this code and I added some cleaner just to rule out the possibility. I gave the car a run for 30 miles @ about 80mph and the code reappeared as soon as I erased it. On the way back on the same route it happened only once and is still off! Sounds too good to be true tbh. Will tick off the above list anyway, cheers.

Mine is fine on start-up and pottering about. The code only kicks in when I cruise about 60mph +. I switch it off but it appears immediately afterwards.

Could a BMC air filter with the crankcase breather vented to the atmosphere (via catch-can) constitute a vacuum leak and hence the fault code? I guess other users with BMCs could answer this if they are throwing up the same code?

Yes 100%. Also known as P0170.