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decvalts last won the day on August 15

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    Lupo SDI

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  1. I had a (much newer!) 1.2 TDI Polo Bluemotion for a while a few years back, and I could never get anywhere near the 83mpg (combined!) figure it claimed. (I did manage mid seventies ish once with it, but it was an effort...). The SDI hits its combined/mixed-driving figure (64mpg) with ease, and I'm managing to regularly beat the "open road/highways" figure of 78mpg now. I think you are right about it it being one of the most efficient combustion-engine cars on the road in the UK (aside from imported 3Ls). I can't think of any others that better it?...and I've looked
  2. I can't vouch for them, but there's a parts store on eBay that appears to be selling new ones. No idea how they've got the stock or if they're aftermarket. £168 - not too badly priced for a new part, if it's the real deal. Have a search for Lupo Front Subframe on eBay.
  3. My best result yet. Can't believe a 20+ year old car just seems to be getting better with age, SDIs are like a fine wine 😆. Filled up after 580 miles and the fuel light hadn't even come on. It would have easily done 600+ on the tank taking it to the line. Maybe the warm temperatures are helping. Flatter terrain than my usual routes through the Scottish Highlands, but not totally devoid of some hills either. I reckon 90mpg might actually be possible on a very flat route, perhaps with some weight shedding, I even had the windows down the whole journey...
  4. Any photos? I paid £800 for mine but it wasn't in the best exterior condition and had a few minor interior defects. A couple on eBay over the last year sold for around £700-900. I also think it depends whether it's the £30 tax year (Y reg and later). Pre March 2001 unfortunatley and the yearly tax will be £295! That's nearly half/third of the value of the car... I think you could get £1k for a reasonable condition one with history, maybe £1500 if it was really decent condition with good recent service history etc. They simply aren't as desirable as the TDIs though. Bargain motoring though like mk2 says... I'm keeping mine 'til it truly dies or an ULEZ expansion gets it.
  5. There are plenty of threads on this but here's a summary How To guide The gearbox selector shaft runs into the gearbox at the base of the gearbox next to the dogbone mount. The O-ring seal that prevents oil from leaking out here usually fails at some point on the Lupo/Arosa 085 gearbox and similar ones used on the Polo. You can still get the OEM part no. 085 311 113, but there are plenty of aftermarket replacement parts as well. In hindsight I'd consider leaving this job if the oil leak isn't significant and just keep on top of topping up the gearbox oil. (Edit: The more I think about this, the more I think it is actually worth doing as preventative maintenance. There's a few of us on here now convinced the gear box maintenance and thicker oil change is what makes the boxes last. So many threads of folk looking for replacement boxes, which are hard to find, and will only get harder to come by!) Some people are lucky and the seal pops out easily in a 20 minute job, with no need to drain the gearbox oil first even. Mine was an hour long ordeal as the seal was so welded in after 20 years. Draining the gearbox oil made it a lot easier for me, but YMMV. Otherwise once you pierce the old seal you might be fighting a steady flow of gearbox oil getting everywhere. You might as well change the gearbox oil if it hasn't been done for a long time. Tools: Picks & hook set, or two small woodscrews, or a small drill. 17 mm hex bit 17 mm spanner 10mm hex socket Funnel + hose Method: Gearbox oil drain Place the car up on axle stands or ramps (ramps are a lot easier for this) Remove the undertray if fitted Locate the gearbox drain and fill holes. These are two plugs that take the 17mm hex bit. The fill hole faces the bumper and is just next to the starter motor and reverse light sensor. The drain plug faces the passenger wheel and is right at the base of the gearbox. Make sure you can slacken off the fill hole first of all. If you can't get this off you'd have to fill via one the sensor holes. But you need some way of refilling the box - don't drain it without checking this first! Now take out the fill plug. Place a container to catch the oil and use the 17mm hex bit to take out the drain plug. Let the oil drain. Selector seal replacement Place the car into first gear Remove the gear linkage mechanism that is connected to the shaft by a 10 mm hex head bolt. It should slide off the shaft and then tuck it away as best you can for access/leverage later. Don't touch any other of the other bolts/screws as these are for adjusting the linkage itself. The VW workshop manual recommends wrapping the shaft in some insulation tape to protect it at this stage. Now the joy begins. You need to get the old seal off without damaging/scoring the shaft itself. There are several methods people use: Screw in two self-tapping screws either side of the seal, then pull out the seal with the screws and some pliers. Drill a very small pilot hole (carefully!) to get a hook or pick in. Pierce the seal with a screwdriver or bradawl, then lever it off with various hooks and picks. (This is what worked for me). Pull the seal off, clean up the opening and shaft (remove the tape), add a drop of oil to the new seal and slide it back on. Press it firmly into place as much as you can. It should sit flush with the gearbox although sometimes you find they have been pushed in a bit further and sit a bit recessed. A 17mm spanner can be used to lever it in and firm it down. Re-attach the gear linkage mechanism to the shaft with the 10mm bolt. Check that all the gears go into place with the gearstick. Personally, I could't see how to get screws in there, the seal is very narrow and I didn't have small enough woodscrews). There is really not a lot of room to drill in at the right angle either. It's made trickier by the fact the old seals usually have a metal ring in them, so you aren't just trying to pierce the rubber but a bit of metal too. The metal ring doesn't run right up to the edge of the seal though, eventually I managed to get a small pick between the metal ring and the inner side of the seal, right next to the shaft, and lever out from here with much difficulty. My cheapo pick set probably meant the picks themselves were softer than the shaft, which avoided scratching it. (You really want to avoid damaging the shaft!) That's a lot of description; again, some folk manage to pop the seal out in 20 minutes with no bother, others like me find it a nightmare to get out. There's no way of knowing until you start the job. Refill the gearbox With the new seal in place, and the drain plug fitted back on, place a hose + funnel into the fill hole, and top up the gearbox until it starts to dribble out (this is the only way to know that it is full). Oil choice. 75w-90 is the official recommended oil. Some of us on here like to replace it with thicker 80w-90 to potenitally increase the longevity of the box. Fill plug back on, and you are good to go.
  6. I might have a second interested person looking for one of these seals as well over from the Lupo Owners facebook group. Also, I'd be happy to buy a couple if that makes it more worth your while. 🙂
  7. Thread resurrection I know...but I'm also looking for one of these now. How did your copying attempt go?
  8. Well, it looks like L30PUL is being broken up for parts now on the Lupo/Arose Facebook Parts group. (Apologies if you can't open this link, think it's private but you can request to join) https://www.facebook.com/groups/418929081561854?multi_permalinks=5003731299748253&hoisted_section_header_type=recently_seen Or the full car for £1000(!), (no MOT and a dodgy ignition barrel... )
  9. Looking for a rear axle in decent condition. Drum brakes + ABS version. In Central Scotland but can travel. Thanks in advance
  10. Looking for a pair of standard Jazz Blue front wings in good condition, on the off chance anyone has these. Central/Southern Scotland, but have Lupo will travel. (would also take one side or the other separately)
  11. I've been tempted by it before (it does seem to pop up a lot...) but the comms always goes quiet after a question or two or request for more details etc... Talked myself out of it again. Shame if got broken for parts cause they are so rare in the UK if it's genuinely a VED band A import.
  12. Oh is not a belt on this engine?
  13. I saw this too. Do you reckon the welding is "sufficient" though (will it last/is it just cosmetically bad...) I don't really have enough experience to judge welds
  14. How to…replace the front subframe on the Lupo - Most of this post was compiled from all the excellent advice in the many subframe threads in the forum and a lot of trial and error on my own Lupo SDI The subframes on the Lupo seem prone to rusting pretty catastrophically… it is often missed at MOT because the undertray and other parts can hide the worst of it I suppose. This guide is based on the SDI, the others are very similar but the positioning of certain components may be different (exhaust down pipe for example is at the back on the SDI…etc) In *theory* it's fairly straightforward, but seized bolts and broken captive nuts can add to your woes. Doing it on axle stands is also a bit more faffy than on a lift. (I did mine in the street on stands...) If I'd known all of this in advance I would guess I could probably have done it in a day or afternoon even. What replacement Subframe can I use? (Feel free to correct this...I think this summarises the compatibility) 1.0, 1.4, 1.7 SDI: From a Lupo or Arosa these are interchangeable with each other. You can also use a Polo 6N subframe. (even a Polo GTI subframe I believe?) TDI: Either a Lupo TDI, GTI or a Polo 6N2 TDI Subframe GTI: You need a Lupo GTI subframe (or a TDI perhaps?) Guide: Jack up car and remove both front wheels Remove under tray Give the 4 subframe bolts a good soaking in penetrating spray See if 4 subframe bolts can be cracked. Try more spray and leave overnight if necessary. Turn the nuts very carefully, support the subframe underneath and then see if you can feel the captive nuts staying in place (or not) when giving them a few turns. They are prone to not staying captive and if the bolt(s) just spins you will need to cut into the chassis and weld in new nuts or drop bolts. I refer you to these excellent threads for pictures and guides on how to do this if needed: - welding in drop bolts method - nice pics of the cut out parts in the chassis leg here You can also try applying downward pressure against the bolt with a pry bar inserted between the subframe and chassis, then attempting to turn the bolts again. Next couple of steps might not be necessary, I did them on my SDI to make access easier. (The next few steps might vary by engine type) Remove plastic inlet plenum box Remove 4 inlet plenum trumpets Remove inlet manifold Remove EGR valve (to give access to 1 bolt on the exhaust manifold!) Regardless of exactly how you get to it, you will need to drop the down pipe/front section of the exhaust from the exhaust manifold, as the subframe curves over the top of the exhaust below it. You do not necessarily need to remove it, lowering it a few inches will just about give you enough clearance to pass it over. Remove exhaust manifold (8 nuts and washers) (You could also remove the 4 bolts on the flexi pipe junction, but I couldn’t reach these, and often they are seized. (Use heat if necessary)) Remove the 2 rubber exhaust mounts. Greasing them may help them come off but I ended up having to cut mine... Drop the front pipe/flexi pipe down, support it on hangers or some chocks of wood. Obviously you want to avoid dropping the subframe on it and bending it/cracking a weak joint later… Disconnect the ball joints on either side Disconnect tie rod ends for more room if you like. (Optional) Loosen Anti-roll bar bushes and bolts. (Optional) Support the transmission if you are extra cautious like me (although it can be left to hang from the two engine mounts) Remove dogbone/transmission/rear engine mount. Two 16mm spanners required for the bolt going through the gearbox. There is not a lot of room here, I couldn’t get a socket on either side of the nut or bolt head. (I suppose you could remove the gear linkage bit though) Remove the upper transmission mount, just above/behind where the down pipe was (1* 16mm hex bolt). You can’t actually see it from the top if you are working from above, you’ll need a short extension bar and feel around to find it. This is connected via a small flat bar to the top of the gearbox. Support the weight of the steering rack on the passenger side with rope or ties. (Again, me being over cautious probably) The driver side is supported enough by the steering column union. Remove 4 steering rack bolts from beneath. (13mm hex). In theory the pair of mounting brackets should behave like “captive” nuts, but they often aren’t. (I had to cut/grind off the passenger side steering rack bolt heads as the nuts became free/spinning. At a glance it looks like you might be able to get a 13mm spanner in from the side to hold spinning nuts from above, but they are actually a weird octagonal shape so a socket/ring spanner won’t get any purchase.) Support the subframe with a jack. Remove 4 subframe big bolts. (18mm hex - 2* M12 x 1.5 x 80mm 2* M12 x 1.5 x 100mm) Lower subframe with 2 people or use jack and wood blocks. (Don’t drop it on the exhaust.) As you are doing this ensure the steering rack separates, but try not to let it sag too much. Manoeuver the subframe out by rotating and turning it towards front of car (It will come out in one piece with wishbones and anti-roll bar still attached with a bit of deft manoeuvring) Installation is reversal of removal. (Ha!) (unless you are welding drop bolts in or new captive nuts…) Squirting in some wax into the captive nut holes might be a good preventative measure to do here. When offering up the new/refurbished subframe to the chassis and steering rack, you essentially have 8 bolts that you need to marry up and align. I started with the biggest M12 bolts that go into the front of the chassis, then the two slightly shorter ones that go through the control arms. Then finally the steering rack ones. If there are ‘dirt marks’ to help you align the subframe back up, try and stick to these if possible. Be careful pushing the bolts back into the captive nuts if you are using these, ensure they ‘take’ and avoid knocking them out of their channel… Make sure everything removed is reinstalled and tightened. Use threadlock if reusing the bolts (yes, yes, you should use new ones ideally…) Have fun! Torque settings: (maybe forgo the extra quarter turns etc on the captive nut bolts if worried about further damage…) 4 main subframe bolts: 70 Nm (+ half a turn) 4 steering rack bolts: 30 Nm (M8 x 80mm if you need to replace) Refurbishing a salvage subframe: OEM part number is 6X0199315F Check for excessive corrosion, no point replacing an old one with similar problems Check for any missing captive nuts, or sheared off bolts present. Captive nuts should be present: 1) On the two control arm mount points, 2) On the dog bone/rear transmission mount - x3 - if any of them break, you can pre-attach a new engine mount using normal nuts, there's enough room to reach in with a long 13mm spanner. 4) Upper transmission mount (x2). Again not the end of the world if captive nuts missing or broken, can be replaced. 5) ARB mounts and the retaining metal clips. Check it isn't bent or warped! I didn't shot blast it, but just rubbed down with degreaser, wire brush, some coarse sand paper, then did couple of coats of red oxide primer, followed by Hammerite. Then spray Waxoyl in the insides thoroughly. With the amount of stuff that has to come off it’s a good opportunity to overhaul or clean up a lot of parts, inlet plenum for example, new control arms/ball joints if needed, replace the exhaust manifold gasket as well if you have removed the old one etc.
  15. EGR is currently "blanked" (well - the screw in the vaccuum hose method) - Should I 'unblank' it before an MOT? (Either for reasons of meeting the emissions criteria, or any other rules about messing with emissions devices (although I think that only applies to DPFs?). It's an SDI, do they still just check smoke values on diesel MOTs?
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